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Bull6791

Conventional Oil

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I think I've read that somewhere. Supposed to be Chevron Supreme oil repacked as Havoline. Havoline is part of Texaco oil, which merged with Chevron, but the Havoline name was retained.

 

Some people beat on its poor specs, as the newer SN designation is not as robust as the older SM designation. Though I think most other brands are in the same boat - newer designation was designed for better fuel efficiency and deposit control, not hardcore engine protection. This means oil changes are critically important - mechanical issues in the engine have to be addressed ASAP, as those will deplete the oil's additive package quickly.

 

Some people still only used FRAM. Personally - I'm not a big fan of FRAM, even though this was the only filter I used some 15-20 years ago. But two disappointing oil filter finds on both my Corolla and older Camry got my attention. In both cases, the filter media came loose from the can, ie. it rattled around inside the can, didn't filter anything. These were the smaller filters - on my old muscle cars which use the larger PH8A filters - I actually still use FRAM.

 

As for the A/C kicking in defrost mode - yes, mind engages the compressor. There were some instructions to disable the automatic engagement when you select defrost/defog mode - was pretty simple, but I've lost track of them. Definitely would help with fuel economy in cases where you didn't need to dry out the air.

Edited by fishexpo101

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I will stick with OEM Toyota and WIX filters then. I do agree with you on your choice of oils, as those are the brands I have used too (Mobil and Valvoline). I found DENSO Part # 1501000 on rockauto at less than three dollars. Is this the Denso part number you used in the 2002 in the past?

 

I haven't used Quaker State in a long time, possibly since the nineties in my '96 Celica. I only used Pennzoil once.

 

I know in some vehicles, the A/C engages as long as the outside temperature is not below 32. It would be nice to override the compressor engaging, as it defogs quickly, and I also don't like having the A/C on for less than a minute. If I turn it on, I'd like it to run for at least five minutes as I think having it on for less than that actually may put more wear on the A/C components.

 

I would like to run the A/C once a week in the winter when temps. are above 32 (but in January winters here, two to three weeks can pass before that temperature arrives).

 

I was at the junkyard on Saturday and I found a '94 Camry (2.2 liter) with 408,000 miles on an automatic. On the engine was a genuine Toyota oil filter. Sounds like another meticulous Toyota owner. But, as you know, using the OEM parts, though a couple bucks more, pay for themselves. The interior of this Camry was very nice, minimal wear, and had the factory cassette "Logic Control Deck" (as does my Corolla). I dislike anything aftermarket. I keep it all factory.

 

Went to the mechanic today (he's only five minutes from where I live) to chat and look at the progress on the clutch replacement. He said it's the most difficult clutch he's done. The bolts are so hard, he's used breaker bars, torch, and lots of sweat. But, I reminded him the clutch is still original. He is still amazed by that. On the shelf was two quarts of the Redline MT-90 and the SACHS clutch.

 

He is replacing the front pads and rotors. I didn't believe his wife when she called me and stated the pads were only "twenty-percent left" and I need pads and rotors. I didn't believe her at first, but I inspected myself when I arrived and indeed, they were very worn. Rotors are due too. Because the mechanic is a friend of my friend, he stated he would charge just for parts, and not labor. He said OEM pads are ceramic. I found that hard to believe, so I looked on RockAuto and learned that OEM really is ceramic. We decided on the "high-performance/heavy-duty" Raybestos (part number ATD417C). They're about $38 on RockAuto, but his wife stated at the ACI automotive outlet a block away, she can get them for $51 plus tax. No problem. These pads also have a three year, 36,000 mile warranty. What do you think about this?

 

I had the driver's side inner and outer tie rods replaced in August from Goodyear as you recall. I told the mechanic I want the passenger side replaced too, as I always like suspension and steering components replaced in pairs. I told him Goodyear said "the passenger side isn't bad, but we'd still like to replace it if we're doing the driver's side", but I was too upset with Goodyear to authorize anything else.

 

I don't know how old the exhaust system is, but it's very quiet. The muffler has the word "Toyota" on it. Perhaps it was replaced at some point at the dealership?

 

 

 

Here's a brief look at the pads: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1097304&cc=1432913

I probably won't have the car back until late Wednesday or early Thursday at this point. Driving my roommate's Accord for now.

Edited by autotech2612

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In regard to the A/C compressor coming on in defog/defrost mode, I think post #7 makes a good point:

 

 

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/member-mods/36512-how-prevent-air-conditioner-coming-automatically/

 

 

Also, found this PDF for a 2005 Corolla: http://www.greenmycon.com/Resources/Projects/CAR/Decouple_AC_Defroster.pdf

 

 

Bottom line for me: If A/C compressor doesn't operate below 32 degrees (am I correct on that?), I will just live with it coming on in defrost mode.

Edited by autotech2612

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About the Orielly Microgard filter it's basically a value line Wix filter since it's identical just with less media being the only difference. I've used Havoline for years without issue but I burn oil about a qt every 1k miles so I'm switching to Valv Maxlife high mileage for a couple of OCI to see how it does and if it doesn't work well then I'll try the high mileage Castrol or Pennzoil.

 

Here's a good forum to bookmark that posts the current oil/filter sales that different places have: BITOG: Product Rebates, Sales and Promotions

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I recently changed the oil, not using the Havoline, but Valvoline high-mileage that was still out in the garage. Didn't use the microguard, but used a Purolator I had on hand. I use 1/3 of a quart every 3,000 miles.

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