Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Cain

Transmission Oil For '99 5 Speed

Recommended Posts

For a Toyota - I'd stick to the big name brands - ACT, Centerforce, Clutchmasters, Exedy, Sachs. Not 100% positive, but I believe that the OEM AISIN/ASCO clutch for Toyota was made by Exedy - at least the pedal feel and clutch take up is almost the same.

 

Most likely, like major appliances, these various brands of clutches are probably all made in one factory and then binned down to their respective brands/costs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update on the high idle issue. First, you are right about the odd screws on the IAC and I don't have a torx that will fit those. I stripped out one of them using various torx looking for a fit. Of course, no luck.

 

So, I did spray carb cleaner into the TB and reached in as far as I could and wiped down for awhile, including the flapper thing. Lots of back on the towel. I looked at all hoses very carefully (what a pain on some of the almost-hidden hoses. Spent awhile doing this and found no burnt or unsecure hoses.

 

Put everything back together and it started, but then died. Started it again and it idled up to 2100 RPM then gradually down to 1800. It was 33 degrees last night, so it was idling pretty high for that temperature.

 

So, just for the heck of it, I went back and unplugged each injector, one at a time, to see how much the engine bogged down. First two were similar. This time around, the third injector bogged down more than the first two. When I plugged it back in, the idle started going down at 1000 RPM. A coincidence, or a sign that injector 3 is indeed bad?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hard to say - could be just coincidence - as it didn't do this that last time (assuming you did this before).

 

Still - possible that you jiggled something in the process of disconnecting the 3rd injector. Could be a bad o-ring that is sucking excessive amounts of air.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Went to the junkyard in search of an injector. Found one on a '98 Corolla. Set-up a little different, but I don't know if an injector off a '98 will fit a '02. There was one '02 there, but all injectors were removed.

 

The injectors on my '02 are green in color, but the injector from the '98 is blue.

 

Will be going to the other yard tomorrow.

 

Please let me know.

 

Also, strut assemblies arrived today. Will be installing Sunday or Monday.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by autotech2612

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Visiting the other yard tomorrow, hoping they still have that 2002 model and injectors aren't out.

 

Checked out each link. Thank you. Pricey online when I am uncertain if it really is the injector.

 

On the 1998 Corolla, I did see the IAC was located in the air filter housing, but still had that IAC sensor on the bottom of the TB that the 2002 has. What the heck?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've never had to replace an injector on any vehicle, ever. Also, my IACV is always flawless... So your idle is high, but you don't get the P0171 lean code? Any evidence of leaking (dark grimey gas residue) at injector o-rings or at intake manifold gasket, etc?

Do you have a scanner to check your TPS output from idle position? If you have no vacuum leaks, you might try adjusting your idle stop set screw on TB.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't have a scanner.

 

From what Fish stated, injectors are a common problem on the 2002 Corolla. At the other yard today, there were three 2002 models, and one was bought in three days ago. Engine wasn't touched, but injectors were gone. On the other two, injectors were gone, but not much activity under the hood except for spark plug boots, headlights, little stuff. At the LKQ yesterday, the 2002 had injectors gone.

 

I'm going to assume it's a common problem on that particular year.

 

So, as you noted above, the 2003 Matrix's fuel injectors are compatible with the 2002. As I was about to leave the row of imports, there was a 2003 Matrix (w/ a manual trans!). Injectors in place. Pulled three out. Green.

 

Had to remove two bolts on the fuel rail, and two nuts that hold together a bunch of wiring. This helps me move the rail out. However, a bunch of gas spilled out, and I'd like to know a better way of removing an injector. It looks like I have to indeed remove the entire rail. Better way? Way of preventing fuel from dumping out?

 

Also, before I put this injector in, what's the best way to clean an injector?

 

No evidence of grimey gas residue at injector O-rings, but don't know about at intake manifold gasket.

 

So, doing injector(s) first, then go from there.

 

Also installing the rear struts, but the pain of it is I have to fold back the rear seats and open a little access door to get to the bolts holding the struts. Not a lot of room to work with. Any ideas on how to have more room?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can release pressurized fuel at the Shrader valve on fuel line, by catching it in a container or rag. Or, you might be able to remove the fuel pump fuse or relay while it's idling.

Edited by dom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I do not see any Schrader valve on this 2002. None. Looked at the rail and there is nothing, and even the Matrix didn't have one. I will have to relieve fuel pressure before I can replace an injector.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did depressurize the system using your guides, Dom. Thank you. Minimal came out of the rail.

 

The far-right injector wasn't "fun" because there was a lot of dirt and sand down where the injector seats to engine. Had to use shop-vac to blow some out, then crevice tool to get more out. Carefully used a q-tip to get more out, but a little dirt went it.

 

Replaced injectors 2,3,4 with injectors from '03 Matrix. Used gasoline to lubricate and clean the O-rings and other rubber seals.

 

Put it all back together, reconnected negative terminal and reinstalled gas cap. Stalled twice, then started and idled high to 2,000 RPM on a 40-degree day. After a few minutes, idle stayed at 1,000 and wouldn't go to 800.

 

Does this behavior tell me the O-rings and other injector seals should be replaced? I can get a kit on Rock Auto, but once again, I can't copy and paste a link on here.

Edited by autotech2612

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some weirdness is happening there. As for being a common issue - it varies. Injectors are easy to get to - so most people will pull them. Also their fitment fits a large number of other vehicles - so some owners will strip the car before it gets junked. Many times a car will come by my local pick and pull - pretty much picked clean, nothing useful other than body parts.

 

As for installing the rear struts - not much you can do. Just pull the rear seat out entirely to get more room for your body, to get a better angle into that small depression where the top of the strut sits.

 

Also note - you've pretty much ruled out the injectors as possibly being the main culprit in the high idle. I'd suspect the throttlebody as a possible source. Sometimes the butterfly valve inside will leak too much air past it, even after a good cleaning - that could cause a high idle issue. Bad TPS unit - not quite dead, but slowly dying could also cause you some headaches.

 

Might also be nothing related to the fuel system - could be chassis grounds not being perfectly clean. Some have noted smoother, lower idle after running aftermarket grounding systems (usually for a big sound system). The 1ZZ-FE is particularly sensitive to electrical noise. A weak battery, slipping serpentine belt, weak alternator, loose battery terminals, etc. - could be causing the ECM to misread air flow and running a high idle.

Its a remote possibility - but something to check for in these cases. 1ZZ-FE engine can be either completely trouble-free or a major PITA projects. My wife calls my Corolla a "moody" car - some days it runs like a champ, sometimes it gives her all sorts of problems. Same with me - but from a maintenance standpoint - sometimes things are super easy to fix, or require an excessive amount of "persuasion" to get working/loosen up/etc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay, I still need to remove the IAC sensor, but I need to get that special tool Dom mentioned that is at Harbor Freight.

 

Where is the TPS unit located on the TB?

 

I was able to loosen the top nuts on the current struts, so no problem there.

 

Still, can you tell me why the car would idle to those numbers right after injector replacement? Also, should I rule out injector gaskets/ O-rings needing replacement?

 

The car is now back to the same behavior before injector replacement.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You are posting as a guest. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  



×
×
  • Create New...