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Transmission Oil For '99 5 Speed

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Great learning experience on some crucial maintenance... It is good to get the darkened fluid out every two years to preserve the system. Brake fluid is ascorbic as it absorbs moisture over time, increasing oxidation rate and wear from contamination, etc.

Edited by dom

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trap

First, I can not find that drain petcock. Do you have a photo you can share?

 

The Zerex is special order at O'Reilly for $15. Peak Long Life is $13 at AAP.

 

Why don't you use the Toyota pink or red?

 

Why do you prefer the Peak over Zerex (okay, I'm assuming you prefer the Peak)?

 

Plus, if I use a hose on that drain petcock, that's introducing city water, not distilled water into the system.

Edited by autotech2612

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They're all good coolants and I don't have a preference, but I can get Peak for less... Besides, there are no Toyota dealers here. When I'll do the first coolant change on my next new car, I may go with Recochem's Asian 10 year coolant (Canadian Tire), or maybe Peak's Global Lifetime coolant.

 

OEM® Premium Extended Life RED (Toyota): http://www.recochem.com/us/index.php/products/automotive_liquids/oem_premium_antifreeze_coolant_-_automotive/item/oem_premium_extended_life_red_antifreezecoolant

 

OEM® Premium Extended Life PINK (Toyota): http://www.recochem.com/us/index.php/products/automotive_liquids/oem_premium_antifreeze_coolant_-_automotive/item/oem_premium_extended_life_pink_antifreezecoolant/

 

STP® Extended Life: http://www.recochem.com/us/index.php/products/automotive_liquids/stp/item/stp_extended_life_antifreeze_coolant1

 

PEAK® GLOBAL LifeTime Antifreeze & Coolant : http://www.peakauto.com/products/antifreeze-coolants/automotive/global-lifetime/

 

PEAK® LONG LIFE®: http://www.peakauto.com/products/antifreeze-coolants/automotive/long-life/

 

Zerex® Asian Vehicle: http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/antifreeze-radiator-products/antifreeze/105

 

 

You can use a hose on block drain petcock to drain coolant in a container.

 

drainj.jpg

 

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Edited by dom

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Located the drain petcock (another pain to get to). I will be ordering antifreeze tomorrow; there are two Toyota dealerships here in Grand Rapids: Kool Toyota and Toyota of Grand Rapids.

 

But, it appears I'll save a couple bucks by ordering on Amazon or Ebay. I also have to buy distilled water. Thank you for your links and suggestions, especially letting me know there is a drain petcock on the engine. Should I also disconnect the bottom radiator hose during the process?

 

The coolant in the car is currently red, so I'm going to stick with Toyota. However, should I get the pink or red? Pink is 50/50, but I think you stated not to get the 50/50 pre-mixed. Why?

 

Using the rest of the brake fluid today to keep flushing the hydraulic clutch. . .

Edited by autotech2612

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Instead of disconnecting bottom rad hose, what helps is to jack up right side of car, and the back up to drain more coolant out. Cooling system capacity is 7 liters. There is some water left in after draining and flushing, so you put in concentrated coolant to make sure you can get enough in before it's full, so you don't end up with coolant that is too diluted... Add a bit of coolant and water in reservoir after draining it as well.

Edited by dom

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Red versus Pink: Why do you recommend Red over Pink?

 

Using a hose with city water on the petcock, that introduces non-distilled water. So, what are your thoughts on that?

 

As in my last Toyota, I prefer to take the expansion coolant reservoir out and clean it during this process.

 

Right side equals passenger side, correct?

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Like you said, Pink is dilluted... Like I said, use non-dilluted coolant for already mentioned reasons.

 

Flush with distilled water only, and use the petcock to drain block only.

 

Walmart Canada sells 2.5 gallon bottles of distilled water for $4.19.

 

USA: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Value-Distilled-Water-1-gal/10315382

Edited by dom

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Sounds like after injecting city water into the coolant channels, I'm going to have to buy four gallons of distilled during flush.

 

Finished the clutch fluid flush today. Used the rest of the container of DOT 3. All clear. Clutch pedal has the normal resistance.

 

Now just sick of the EVAP codes that Fishexpo and I share. Our 2002 Corollas are very similar in fuel economy, codes and little to no oil consumption.

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I generally use Toyota Red over the pink stuff. Being pre-diluted makes it less of a value for me. Sure the formulation is different and can run longer - but since I tend to stick with a conservative drain interval - Toyota Red +distilled water works for me.

 

I don't mess with the block drain - hard for me to reach it. I just drain from the radiator petcock - fill with distilled, run that through a cycle, drain - repeat with more distilled until the drained fluid runs clear. Fill half the system capacity with Toyo Red, top off with distilled water - perfect 50/50 mix. Takes only a couple of hours - longer if you let the car cool between cycles.

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Called the dealership: $35 plus tax. I can get it on Amazon for $27 with free shipping. I'm assuming this antifreeze will last the rest of the car's life (unless I can get 400,000 out of it). . .

 

I don't mind taking my time to do the process correctly and make sure I "burp" the system. I may be doing this on Saturday or Sunday, so I'll take photos (I know you probably anticipate them) and show condition of used coolant.

 

Thanks, guys, for helping me out.

Edited by autotech2612

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Okay, I changed out the gear oil using the Mobil that "4th Gear" recommended. Again, it's a pain to get to the filler plug. Instead of using a 23mm socket, I used a standard socket since I don't have a 23mm. As a precaution, I wrapped some white pipe thread on both the drain and filler plugs prior to re-installing. After driving, I notice a slight difference. Shifting is slightly "silkier" now. Here is a photo of the old oil:

 

 

002_zps79a165c9.jpg

 

 

Tomorrow, I want to flush the DOT 3 brake fluid reservoir used for the hydraulic clutch on the Corolla. The bleeder screw is finally loosened up a bit (and also a pain to get to for the purpose of bleeding). So, just like bleeding brakes, I have an assistant pump the clutch pedal and then hold it down while I loosen the bleeder screw and let the old flow into a clear container? (Then tighten screw and have assistant pump again?)

 

Do you know what gear oil was in it before? That is not horrible oil, I've seen much worse. Used teflon tape or that plumber's goop? Assuming tape - personally, not a big fan of using teflon tape on any of the threads on a car - way too easy to get some chunks of teflon loose inside the engine/differential. If you needed a good seal, a medium hold thread lock is a better option or use a thread lubricant (never seize, etc.). I usually brush on a bit close to the head of the bolt, with a little copper thread lube, then after it is cleaned up - if I feel that it needs more, shoot the bolt and surrounding area with a little rust preventive sliver colored primer. That will help chase away moisture to prevent some deep corrosion, also be readily show any leaks around the plug.

 

I currently use Mobil 1 LS 75W90 in the Rav4 center and rear diffs, most reviews have it show reasonably weight (viscosity) and good additive package. I haven't seen this oil really shear down, like it does with Mobil 1 motor oils - but then again, different applications with different oils. From experience, tends to run a bit "thicker" than say Redline MT-90, but then again, it's also generally 30%-50% cheaper. With the Rav4, I'm looking at 15K-30K mile drain intervals at least. With my commute - that can get up there pretty quick - looking at two or three changes a year @ 15K OCI.

 

Pennzoil Syncromesh is much "thinner" - but has a huge advantage with its VI additives, so it really doesn't lose on the protection aspect. Also, just like MT-90, well known to be syncro and yellow metal safe. Thinner also helps shifting feel in cold winters - not much, but definitely noticeable. Not that stick stuck in honey feeling.

 

Let us know how it runs in the winter time. I would definitely like to save some money, if that turns out to be some good oil - buying Redline by the case adds up pretty quickly, they don't hook me up with a discount anymore.

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Fish,

 

I have no idea what brand oil was in there before. Because the Mobil was so cheap, I'm still inclined to replace it this fall if it seems too sticky when driving on a cold morning. I guess I'll just have to see how that goes. When I applied to tape version of pipe thread, I didn't apply it all the way to the area that really goes into the transmission, but I agree, it's still easy to get that stuff into the transmission when removing the plug and re-installing. I will just take it all off at the next drain and fill.

 

By the way, 235 miles on half tank right now. I want to get 425 out of this tank.

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Received Toyota Red in the mail yesterday, so today is official coolant flush day (keeping you all in suspense). Photos to come. . .

 

 

(Still dealing with high idle problem). Only got 400 miles out of this latest tank, colder temperatures lately, so I'll attribute it to that.

Edited by autotech2612

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