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Thinking About Getting One Of These...

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So I installed the front mount insert needed to stop the engine from rocking and smacking the manifold into stuff. Only driven the car a few days with it and I think I can tolerate the vibrations. It kind of sucks loosing my smooth idle but the loss of that is kind of worth the gains from the solid-ish mount up front. It doesn't feel rubber bandy when I shift at high RPM, no more torque steer and wheel hop in low traction situations, no more torque steer shifting at 8000 rpm and 80mph (that one is sucky), I can power on a tight turn without hopping my inside wheel, inducing power on understeer is easier and more predictable, etc etc. All around more gains than losses. Bonus, my seat is now a massage chair at long red lights!


So I'm thinking about painting my brake calipers candy red with metalcast base and color coats. Is that too rice? I feel like it might be, but it would match the front Toyota emblem and rear red CELICA letter inserts. Now if I paint them I'm also thinking about getting some black decals that say Celica to break up the red some, but that would surely be rice right? The decals are only good to about 300F and the paint to 500F. I think I'd be OK with the paint, might melt the stickers. I plan to grind the rough cast surfaces down smooth so the calipers look nice, I need to bleed the brakes anyway so I'd pull them off one at a time and bleed one at a time as I paint them. It's going to be too humid the next week to do it anyway. I made a little doohicky with a bolt and some thick round rubber spacers that lets me seal up stainless brake lines without hurting them, invented it working on a Jag with factory SS brake lines!


So rice or not?

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I think I'm getting used to the mount. I fixed an AC leak with some assistance from the boss, the Toyota supplied O-ring was leaking, lost about 1/2 my 1lb charge in about 6 weeks with a good spot of dye oil marking the location, the same spot I had a small leak before and a small leak when I bought the car. I thought I had damaged the o-ring during installation somehow but I took it off and it was perfect, so he helped me find one just a tiny tiny bit fatter that fits super tight and caught that the line was tweaked a little and may have not been pulling in totally flush when tightened, so hopefully between those two things it's fixed! Also the scale on the AC machine is out of calibration so he helped me eyeball it by pressures since a 1lb charge was sending my high side pressure sky high, even sucking it down to the .9lb min charge was still showing a high charge by pressure. Things are as they should be now and it's nice and ice cold again.

 

I'll have to keep an eye on it for a while to see if it's leaking or not, If it still leaks I don't know what I'll do with it. Maybe get a new high side line, there's a couple small nicks on the non sealing areas of the line that I guess might cause an issue but I can't see how, they were present from whenever I took it apart the first time.

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I rebuilt/repaired my passenger side door check, it hadn't been holding the door at the half way point very well on a slight incline and a bit of wind would start it trying to close even when fully open. Kind of annoying after a while! My driver side is much worse, it basically won't stay in position unless I'm perfectly level and there's no wind, and even then it'll slam itself closed because a horsefly in Albuquerque sneezed. I'll repair it next once I'm sure this is a good repair.



So inside the door check are two nylon shoes and two rubber blocks which are a rectangle shape. I simply flipped one block so it sat taller and pushed it all back together, initially I tried to flip both but it was impossible to reassemble. Here's some photos of what's inside.

IMG_0547_zpsepbujwma.jpg
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IMG_0545_zpszzvcmwkz.jpg
IMG_0544_zpstlyobk9b.jpg
IMG_0543_zpsfqbf3ubm.jpg
IMG_0542_zpse05zldff.jpg
IMG_0536_zpsinliejoo.jpg

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Driver side door check repair is a failure, it's too worn out and when I tried to close the door it spit one the nylon shoes out and cut into the plastic rod pretty badly. I'll order a new one tomorrow.

 

Also I decided against painting the chrome trim ring red, it wouldn't match the BIG HONKIN chrome door handles right above the trim rings and the rest of the chrome surfaces would also look out of place. If there was a way to do red chrome on all of the chromed plastic parts inside the car then I'd just do that but some of those parts are hard to take apart to that level of disassembly. Also a weird custom order like that would probably be stupidly expensive at any of the chroming shops that do plastic parts.

 

I did however still pull the door panel apart once it was off just to see how it all goes together and it's pretty easy. I also cleaned it really well while it was apart and off the car, I've cleaned before but dang I missed some stuff! The pull and in around the handle had tons of hidden dirt I got off. Now I really want to pull the other side off again to take it apart and really clean it too.

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Sounds like an adventure. I'm guessing that is a "feature" of having a coupe - with its longer doors acting like a huge lever arm.

 

Yeah, I think red chrome would look better than trying to paint it red - but that sort of work can be pretty expensive. We did something similar at my shop for an underwater project (they wanted the company logo in a contrasting chrome color). The end result was fantastic - but the cost was stupid expensive.

 

The logo was already chromed, but the company said, for best results, it had to be deplated first (chrome won't stick to chrome), replated with nickel, then chromed the target color. They said color chrome could be overlaid, but the base chrome has to be perfect. Was something like $400 for two logos no bigger than my fist.

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Well I think if I did red chrome I'd have to do ALL the chrome inside red chrome, but I can't swallow more than a couple hundred for an indulgence like that. I just read that colors on chrome are an epoxy coating over the chrome so I emailed a place asking if they have to replate or if they can just put the color coat over existing. If they can just coat over existing I'll inquire about price and durability to touch. I'd LOVE to have the ONLY 7G Celica in the world with red chrome interior parts. I love having the ONLY Celica in the world with stuff, I get to brag.

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I ended up buying the updated door check for the driver side, it's a bigger working part, looks more like a late model Sienna door check.

Also bought this for the horn button, my custom vinyl dragon is coming apart and peeling up.

s-l1600.jpg

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It's washed, been drying over night, it's pulled into the garage so I can do the door check and determine if I need to clay it or not. I've got a new product to try out called Car Pro Essence. It's a polymer based semi permanent filler/glaze/polish product, from the same who make CQuartz (which I haven't tried yet). I added 1oz of Ultima waterless wash to my 3 gallon M62 soap mix and it REALLY did help the water to sheet off and not spot. I've tried it on a few panels like a QD with a micro fiber but it feels really slow to dry when sprayed on the panel so I may try a spritz on the MF towel and then wiping the panel. I probably will need to clay at least the nose, hood, and front fenders however I don't want to since the paint is so soft it's easily marred by the clay and that means I have to polish the mar marks out. I've got some pretty gentle polish I'll try and I'll put a layer of the Essence over too so maybe it won't be so bad, just seems like I always end up with some light halogram no matter what I do.

 

 

What I really need to do is just pony up and get a real DA and the kit n kaboodle that goes with it.

Edited by fishexpo101

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That Yamaha label looks pretty sweet. Should look great on the wheel.

 

Yeah, let us know how Car Pro Essence works. Always interested in seeing newer sealants like this work out.

 

I was in the same boat as you - did everything by hand, too stubborn to get a good quality DA buffer - couldn't justify it, as I could use the money elsewhere - more practically. I eventually broke down and got the whole works - Porter Cable 7424XP, set of pads, bucket to wash the pads, etc. - couldn't believe how I was able to work on the car before this! Now I have my son do the work for me - DA is goof-proof, easy swirl removal, water spots disappear with a couple of passes, no chances for holograms like you get with a plain rotary buffer.

 

Now looking to pickup a Griot's 6" DA - more power than the Porter Cable, and lifetime warranty for a couple of bucks more. The Porter Cable will see some furniture / woodworking duty, so I'll still get my money's worth.

Edited by fishexpo101

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I'll likely just skip to the Griots or something better since I keep seeing everyone upgrading. I want something more ergonomic than the PC one looks.

 

The reloading issue seems fixed, whatever you did fixed it.

 

I think it looked extra glossy in the garage overall. Paint is still in the snipter but it looks nicer now than before. I just put on a coat of M21, I'll take that off tomorrow and do a layer of carnuba for the special gloss and depth it gives. I then can just QD it every day gently and re-carnuba once a week or as needed over the M21 so it lasts. It was still beading water fine but some halograms were starting to show through on the doors, that's why I wanted to try the essence. I guess the nice thing is my paint is so snip that I can't really make it much worse. Whole car needs a spray sadly, but then I'd really never want to drive it!

 

When I do FINALLY get the DA I'll take it to the daily Mazda and whip it into shape, it's got good clear to work with on it, I can cut it down to look like glass, I've done some spots by hand to check it out. I know I can make it look really really good.

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Nice - great price! I saw some of those on newcelica.org - looks like a pretty solid piece.

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