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Guest bones774

Is 4a-fe Engine Non-inter?

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4AFE and 4AGE are very similar engines - both are part of the same series. But the 'G' head variants has nice features like better flowing heads, wider valve angles, stiffer main block, piston cooler (oil squirters), stronger rods, semi-forged pistons (some say forged, hard to say for sure - Toyota process indicated they are semi-forged), stronger crank, higher compression.

 

So basically the 4AGE is a pretty stout block - perfect starting point for a forced induction engine project. The heads are even more impressive - 'G' variant uses two separate cams (belt drives each cam), in the 'F' head - they use a scissor cam setup (one cam drives another) - the design is such that the camshafts have to be closer together forcing the valve angles closer together.

 

Sometimes they refer to the 'G' head as the performance version - the 'F' variant as the fuel efficient version.

 

As for clearance - the piston/valve sync has to be so far off for that to happen (probably have to rev the engine to 10K-11K to even have a chance) - at that speed, bent valve is the least of your problems. But there are some non-interference engines that will not hit the valves no matter what (unless the valve gets sucked in). I just wanted to illuminate the idea that just because the engine is non-interference, there is no guarantee that a broken timing belt will result in no damage whatsoever.

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trap

Thanks for the info fishe. Does anyone know just which engines are standard and what the optional engines are for each generation of Corollas?? I am just curious as to what was available at the times that each car was new. I am not talking about aftermarket modifications and making engines fit, just stock cars with stock engines and the optionals. Hope somebody can help with this. One reason I ask is that on several trips to the junkyards looking for parts for my cars I have noticed that there are numerous variations of Toyota Corollas and also numerous varieties of engines in them.

Edited by Bikeman982

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93-97 you had 2 engine choices - 4afe and 7afe.

previous gen i think had 2 different 1.6L engines one was a smallport 4aGe and the other a standard 4afe.

 

the smallport had a higher CR and made 110HP and came in the prizm GSI. you can swap the head and ECU from an mr-2 into that and make a 150HP NA 1.6L engine fairly easily.

 

4AFE and 4AGE are very similar engines - both are part of the same series. But the 'G' head variants has nice features like better flowing heads, wider valve angles, stiffer main block, piston cooler (oil squirters), stronger rods, semi-forged pistons (some say forged, hard to say for sure - Toyota process indicated they are semi-forged), stronger crank, higher compression.

 

So basically the 4AGE is a pretty stout block - perfect starting point for a forced induction engine project. The heads are even more impressive - 'G' variant uses two separate cams (belt drives each cam), in the 'F' head - they use a scissor cam setup (one cam drives another) - the design is such that the camshafts have to be closer together forcing the valve angles closer together.

 

Sometimes they refer to the 'G' head as the performance version - the 'F' variant as the fuel efficient version.

yea the 4aGe is a very strong engine, but ive heard of people getting quicker spool and being able to run higher psi with more agressive timing on the F heads because theyre soo compact and really resist hotspots and detonation.

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I've read that somewhere as well. Stock for stock - that might be the case (4AGE having higher compression and high RPM breathing, 4AFE optimized for better combustion (swirl) with stock compression, tuned for low RPM performance). But bet on that the 4AFE rods will not hold up under those conditions for long - better to drop in a 4AGE with low comp pistons or even better - 4AGZE). If you tuned them out - then I'd see those figures turn the other way. But how people have the time and money to do a proper tune.

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theres no doubt that the 4age bottom end is better than the 4afe bottom end.

 

what im saying is that the F head is pretty good for boost, obvisouly not as good as a 5valve head, but the compact chamber and narrow angles as well as how the air enters the cylinder directly down with large rectangular ports and exits with large round ports makes it good for boost with lower rpm spooling all other things being equal. alot of motorcycles are adopting a compact chamber with narrow valve angles because it allows a smaller engine, higher compression/or lower octane needs, and running more agressive timing to help give the little engines more torque in the low rpm band.

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I completely agree with that - F heads are better at fuel economy and lower RPM characteristics. Their ability to get great exhaust scavenging coupled with narrower valve angle will help get a turbo to spool up faster at lower RPMs. F heads are great for modest boost, you just can't push them as hard as the G headed variants.

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I am not planning on racing my car or adding turbo to it. I just want to change to a stock engine that is an easy swap and will provide a little more Horsepower. Nothing requiring extensive modifications.

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if its an automatic dont bother, if its a stick you can throw some 4a** pistons in the 7afe and run a higher octane fuel. as far as i know all 4afe pistons will work in the 7afe because its the same diameter bore. if you want to get more exotic theres headswaps and such, check out club4ag.com for more info on the 7ag engines.

Edited by Bitter

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The car in my garage is a 1994 automatic with a 4A-FE 1.6L seized engine. I plan on swapping the 4A-FE engine with a 7A-FE 1.8L engine. I heard it is doable and requires minimum changeover modifications. I already have the engine, just need the time.

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you may also need to swap the ECU and possibly the transmission if its a 3spd auto mated to the 1.6L.

 

other things you can do with the 7afe to make power in stock form are to provide it with a free-er flowing intake and to advance the timing a little.

 

yank the intake snorkel that sits behind the headlight and runs under the battery, this will let the engine suck air right from a triangular hole in the bottom of the airbox. the shorter intake path will help the engine to respond a little faster when the throttle opens.

 

you can advance the ignition timing to about 15 deg btdc and run 89 octane in it. you'll notice that the little lump of power at about 30mph is now a smooth constant pull till nearly the end of 1st gear and the engines responce to suddenly opening will be greatly improved. also ive noticed a smoother idle and slightly better highway mileage. the advanced timing will make a little more torque and will make it at a slightly lower rpm than the stock timing, you'll really notice it when you're driving around town. i often am the 1st one across the intersection without realizing it, and im only at about 1/3 throttle.

 

 

make sure the engine and ecu you get are from another 94 because in 95 and above obd2 and calispec emissions were introduced. obd2 is nice but cali spec emissions made the engine much duller.

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