3- Hey, he's an old budy, I didn't want to rub it in the wound and ask him how he feels about the whole issue and the potential for lower resale when trade-in time comes.
That possible air leak in the intake manifold sounds promising. Solutions to complex problems often lies in simple and overlooked details.
You are a good friend to want to protect him from potentially bad news.
It was very easy for me to feel good about my new car purchase when my dealer told me that starting with the 03 models, the motors were a new generation and that many of these new engines would have this sound.
It was only after two winters that I began to sense that my dearler's story was not correct and then I began to get nervous because I realized that I would no longer have a reasonable story to pass on to the person buying my car second hand.
I keep thinking about the air leak. At the same time I thought about the possibility of the MAF sensor reporting that less air was flowing.
However, if there are no real air leaks and a MAF sensor does not tell the truth, as long as the oxygen sensor is working perfectly, then the ECU will eventually discover the lie and make a compensation for this lie so that in the end the car works perfectly.
I had my problem when my car was new with a new oxygen sensor and still had my problem after my oxygen sensor was unnecessarily changed by my dealer last month.
So I know that my problem has been occurring in the presence of a good oxygen sensor, therefore by my reasoning, we are not talking about a false air leak, but a real air leak.
Let me start by defining what I call the danger zone for a motor. That is the minimum rpm at which the ECU will temporarily shutdown the engine given a certain temperature and a certain volume of gas being injected.
So I ask, if there is a real air leak, why does the idle pulsing only occur in winter and not year round?
Answer, in summer, the engine block is warmer and the ECU does not need the idle rpm to be as fast as in winter, so the ECU orders the idle air bypass valve to close more. Having a lower rpm means that we are further away from the danger zone where the ECU objects by pulsing.
So if the ECU can set a lower idle rpm in summer, why does it not do so in winter so that we do not get close to the danger zone?
Answer, in winter the engine block and the outside air are colder, it takes more force to turn over a cold engine, and there is also a need to keep the warmup period as short as possible. To achieve all of this we need to burn more gas and we can't burn more gas without admitting more air (including the air from the leak) into the cylinders. While the ECU has the capacity to lower the rpms by closing the idle air valve, it appears that the ECU has decided that it wants to let the engine turnover as fast as possible after having positioned the idle air valve at the position that the ECU has calculated to be proper.
As a consequence we now have a idle rpm of 2300 and given the air temperature and the volume of gas now being injected, the ECU has decided that we are now in the danger zone and it no longer thinks 2300 rpms is good.
If there is an air leak so small that we don't get a code fault, will plugging it cause our cold idle rpms to drop just enough to be out of the danger zone?
How do we go about locating a very minor air leak?
Just to be the devil's advocate, this problem could just as easily be explained by a fuel leak instead of an air leak. My dealer's mechanic first suspected this. If fuel is leaking slightly through one of the four injectors, then the ECU will learn about this in a few days and modify the fuel trim parameter tables to compensate.
But suppose the ECU decided that even with a modification to the data, there is always some residual fuel being injected (and being detected by the O2 sensor)that can't be compensated for with a trim adjustment. The ECU will have no choice but to open up a little bit more the idle air bypass valve to get the a/f ration correct during a cold startup rather than over pollute.
So when it come time to do a cold startup, we may end up having more fuel and air going into the cylinders than on the average car and that spells higher cold idle rpms. If the rpms build up enough, we may hit the danger zone again.
How do we go about locating a very minor fuel leak in the injector(s)?
Every gasket and every rubber hose associated with the intake air manifold has the potential of creating a microscopic air leak. Anyone of the 4 injectors has the potential of having a fuel leak. The leak is so small that the ECU can't bring itself to throw a code so we know which type of leak it is.
For this reason I can understand why Toyota would rather wash its hands of my problem than pull the engine apart while under guaranty.
Thus the problem become a legal one again and this survey's results become very important.