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Hotter In Engine Bay Than Before

by corranhorn, September 19, 2006

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Wow, didn't know there was "name brand" exhaust wrap! I'll probably end up doing that - just rewrap with good stuff. I like the hood scoop idea - I think it would work perfectly but the idea of tearing up my hood isn't very appealing to me right now. Too much going on already with this car. Uninstall, rewrap, reinstall shouldn't be more than an hour or so. I swear this car is becoming my second full time job. lol Thankfully it's fun!

Yep, DEI is THE name brand in thermal wraps. theyre not outrageously priced either. im not sure where you could get steel bailing wire, but any steel or preferably stainless steel wire would work just fine. stay away from aluminum wire, it wont hold tension under heat as well.

i just guessed how much a runner would take sort of. they include a peice of paper with a formula which is runner diameter times lenght times some number gives you how many inches to cut. i took that number and added some onto that number. i think it ended up being about 100 inches per runner and had a little left over from each runner. better to cut too much than not enough.

Bikeman982

The e-Bay DEI wrap looks pretty good.

Would it be worth getting to put on a regular exhaust??

The e-Bay DEI wrap looks pretty good.Would it be worth getting to put on a regular exhaust??
no, dont put it on cast iron. it will greatly weaken the cast iron, the stock manifold is already prone to develope a crack. cast iron is thick enough and low enough density that it insulates on its own pretty well, and coupled with the stock heatsheilds is plenty well enough insulated.

 

 

Bikeman982

The e-Bay DEI wrap looks pretty good.

Would it be worth getting to put on a regular exhaust??

no, dont put it on cast iron. it will greatly weaken the cast iron, the stock manifold is already prone to develope a crack. cast iron is thick enough and low enough density that it insulates on its own pretty well, and coupled with the stock heatsheilds is plenty well enough insulated.

 

By putting it on the cast iron stock pipes it could cause the exhaust manifold to crack??

 

 

The e-Bay DEI wrap looks pretty good.

Would it be worth getting to put on a regular exhaust??

no, dont put it on cast iron. it will greatly weaken the cast iron, the stock manifold is already prone to develope a crack. cast iron is thick enough and low enough density that it insulates on its own pretty well, and coupled with the stock heatsheilds is plenty well enough insulated.

 

So your suggesting that one should not put any heatwrap on the exhaust headers due to the cast iron cracking? Are you absolutely sure? because I was really thinking about wrapping my 98.

 

 

Twink - the exhaust manifold on the 8th gen looks like a header - the material is pretty thin, putting on a wrap will increase the chance of localized heat retention, weakening the metal underneath.

No reason to wrap the mainfold - the OEM heatshield does a pretty good job with heat, and the overall design of the mainfold promotes a very fast light-off time in the cat. You will get little to no gains with holding heat in the manifold - probably would get better gains porting the manifold than wrapping it.

If you are dead set on wrapping the OEM header - a trick used to minimize the potential for cracking to use a 1/4" wrap overlap or less. This still helps with the heat - but allows some of the heat to radiate out (pretty much defeats the purpose of using the wrap in the first place) - but a trick that we used to use on OEM cast manifolds or thin wall headers. If it just the heat your worried about - go with a header blanket - kind of a variation of a heat shield.

Bikeman982

I still like the idea of a hood scoop. It will improve the looks and also bring in some cooler air and let out some of the engines heat.

i dont think it would improve the looks one bit.

i dont think it would improve the looks one bit.

 

lol Thanks for being honest. The ricer in me wants to for ricey reasons, but the realist in me says a 130hp(guesstimate with mods) car doesn't deserve a scoop.

....But the realist in me says a hood scoop would be the best way to alleviate extra heat, thus solving my problem.

"If" I went the hood scoop route, I should get one that points toward the windshield, right? Since air naturally comes into the engine bay around the lights, grill, rim of hood, etc,--- I'd want one that lets the hot air out. Right? Facing forward lets more air in, facing backwards lets hot air out. Since it lets more air out, it thus allows more air in from those stock areas, right? Am I the only one understanding what I'm saying???

Thanks for the hood scoop idea, Bikeman - this is why I love forums. Plenty of ideas!

130 crank is probably a very high estimate. probably closer to 120 on a good day.

i think you should re-wrap your header with DEI wrap and overlap it 1/2 width like i did and then see how hot it still gets. if you do want a hood scoop then get a spare hood and cut that one up. after you've cut it up get it painted all the same color as your car somewhere so it doesnt look like a crap job, also measure 4 times, cut once. this way...it wont look like crap and you can change back to stock incase the riceyness makes baby jesus cry and little children laugh at you.

if you're going to do a hood scoop, then get the stock spoiler to compliment it please, and a low-rise small scoop like this cheap one on ebay, but paint the gutter guard screen matte black. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=250024937817

Bikeman982

i dont think it would improve the looks one bit.

 

lol Thanks for being honest. The ricer in me wants to for ricey reasons, but the realist in me says a 130hp(guesstimate with mods) car doesn't deserve a scoop.

....But the realist in me says a hood scoop would be the best way to alleviate extra heat, thus solving my problem.

"If" I went the hood scoop route, I should get one that points toward the windshield, right? Since air naturally comes into the engine bay around the lights, grill, rim of hood, etc,--- I'd want one that lets the hot air out. Right? Facing forward lets more air in, facing backwards lets hot air out. Since it lets more air out, it thus allows more air in from those stock areas, right? Am I the only one understanding what I'm saying???

Thanks for the hood scoop idea, Bikeman - this is why I love forums. Plenty of ideas!

Even if it is open towards the windshield it would let out heat, since heat will rise and exit the engine compartment faster than without the scoop.

I question how hot a 1zzfe can really get under the hood. I think the need for a scoop or cowl wouldn't help much IMO. Perhaps getting some tubing leading from the front (like the bumper, very subtle), to the engine compartment would help. This would cause an environmental ram air into the engine compartment. Since you are moving, the cool air comes in, while the hot air gets pushed out. Also, no cutting, no aesthetic changes, and no painting.

Or you can change the fan, think of how a computer case uses tubing to suck outside air in, throught the processor and back out again.

I also think that some m3 fender gills could help and not destroy the looks too too much. I agree with Bitter, the scoop doesn't look right on a corolla. But...I am also a firm believer that there is a difference between ricing a car and souping up a car. For you to put a scoop because you need it, IMO, it doesn't become a rice accessory. Its not an accessory for the bling bling on your car but rather for a purpose.

If you have an 8th gen corolla, the outsides of the hood dip in a little bit, perhaps some really subtle subtle scoops or gills on each side would help.

Take a look at what fish said about the exhaust headers, they are thin and more prone to cracking. So..I don't know if you have stock headers but...

This might all sound like bs, but hope this might add some creativity to your problem solving.

he has a 7afe not a 1zzfe.

Bikeman982

I question how hot a 1zzfe can really get under the hood. I think the need for a scoop or cowl wouldn't help much IMO. Perhaps getting some tubing leading from the front (like the bumper, very subtle), to the engine compartment would help. This would cause an environmental ram air into the engine compartment. Since you are moving, the cool air comes in, while the hot air gets pushed out. Also, no cutting, no aesthetic changes, and no painting.Or you can change the fan, think of how a computer case uses tubing to suck outside air in, throught the processor and back out again.

 

I also think that some m3 fender gills could help and not destroy the looks too too much. I agree with Bitter, the scoop doesn't look right on a corolla. But...I am also a firm believer that there is a difference between ricing a car and souping up a car. For you to put a scoop because you need it, IMO, it doesn't become a rice accessory. Its not an accessory for the bling bling on your car but rather for a purpose.

If you have an 8th gen corolla, the outsides of the hood dip in a little bit, perhaps some really subtle subtle scoops or gills on each side would help.

Take a look at what fish said about the exhaust headers, they are thin and more prone to cracking. So..I don't know if you have stock headers but...

This might all sound like bs, but hope this might add some creativity to your problem solving.

Ramming more air into the engine compartment may help a little, but there needs to be a place for the hot air to escape and a hood scoop can provide that place. A scoop can be made to look nice if it is not too large or gaudy.

Once you atart moving, the heat will flow out by the wheel wells and under the car. Scoops are only useful if they can actually grab some air, vents to let hot air out can do some weird things. Just blinding slapping on a scoop or cutting vents on the hood will not guarantee air will enter or exit. Especially at speed - the high pressure air close to the windshield will push air in, not pull it out.

I've always wondered.....Doesn't water, snow, small debris, etc. come through the screen? Screen holes I've seen look big enough to let very small things in. Is there even such a thing as a screen that has holes small enough to let air molecules through but not water molecules?

goretex

Bikeman982

I've always wondered.....Doesn't water, snow, small debris, etc. come through the screen? Screen holes I've seen look big enough to let very small things in. Is there even such a thing as a screen that has holes small enough to let air molecules through but not water molecules?
Most scoops open to the air do have screens to keep unwanted things from coming in and allows air to enter.

 

 

Guest iroczoom

I noticed that alot of this post was focused on underhood heat. With that header making the underhood very hot, that short ram is probably making less power than the stock airbox. I would suggest making an intake like I did. its a full cold air style that didnt cost too much and works great. It sits on the plastic undergaurd of the car to keep 90 percent of water off, never had a problem with it sucking in water and hydrolocking the engine. It only cost about 50 bucks including the filter.

It goes right over the trans and fits below the battery tray and is alot farther away from the exhaust. The car doesnt run hot at all anymore. It almost runs too cold in the winter and fall, but i just pop in a new thermostat for the winter and im set.

Since this photo, i wrapped it in black tape all the way around since every pipe was a different color plus it couldnt hurt anything since it may be lying on a sensor or something like that.

http://www.toyotanation.com/photos/data/694/PIC_0349.jpg

I noticed that alot of this post was focused on underhood heat. With that header making the underhood very hot, that short ram is probably making less power than the stock airbox. I would suggest making an intake like I did. its a full cold air style that didnt cost too much and works great. It sits on the plastic undergaurd of the car to keep 90 percent of water off, never had a problem with it sucking in water and hydrolocking the engine. It only cost about 50 bucks including the filter.

It goes right over the trans and fits below the battery tray and is alot farther away from the exhaust. The car doesnt run hot at all anymore. It almost runs too cold in the winter and fall, but i just pop in a new thermostat for the winter and im set.

Since this photo, i wrapped it in black tape all the way around since every pipe was a different color plus it couldnt hurt anything since it may be lying on a sensor or something like that.

http://www.toyotanation.com/photos/data/694/PIC_0349.jpg

 

Hmmmmm - another good idea. I was planning on repiping my intake eventually anyway since right now it's pointed towards the fender. ...That would also give me a good excuse to attempt moving my battery to the trunk. default_smile

do you have a bigger intake?

do you have a bigger intake?

The pipe itself is bigger than the intake by 1/2inch:

https://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i38/corr...ICstrutbar2.jpg

It's a Weapon R - Secret intake. I'm not too big a fan of the figure-S pipe for it. Would have been happier if the curve at the filter was straight instead (pointing towards the battery). I learned my lesson and paid waaaaay too much - when the filter needs a cleaning again I'll just go autozone, get a misc pipe or two make my own.

Bikeman982

I see a lot of intake filters and pipes for sale on e-Bay and have wondered if they would be any benefit for my cars performance.

I see a lot of intake filters and pipes for sale on e-Bay and have wondered if they would be any benefit for my cars performance.

I did a lot of research on pre-made namebrand intakes and this article is what settled me on WeaponR:

http://www.tprmag.com/issue/1/sr-results.shtml

I originally had their "Dragon" sri but it whistled in idle which was pretty annoying. I then upgraded to their "Secret" intake. Interesting inner pipe design if nothing else (scroll halfway down the page to start reading about the pipe/filter design):

http://www.prostreetonline.com/buy/weapon_...weapon_intakes/

Besides it not whistling any more, I like the idea of the larger diameter pipe and large filter. In n/a applications it makes more sense to me.



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