Went to station and had 410.1 on odometer. Put in 10.08 gallons.
Went to station and had 410.1 on odometer. Put in 10.08 gallons.
10.08 US gallons of regular E10 (10% ethanol) 87 pump octane (RON+MON/2) gasoline? Synthetic 5W-30 engine oil? Amsoil MTG in tranny?
Forum won't allow me to introduce a new topic. On your 2002, Fish, does your A/C blow cold? What is the "normal" chill temperature on a 90-95 degree day when A/C is on in the recirculation mode?
I used mine today, outside temperature was 92, and it blew cold, but it seems it didn't blow as cold as it normally does.
10.06 US gallons of regular E10 (10% ethanol) 87 pump octane (RON+MON/2) gasoline? Synthetic 5W-30 engine oil? Amsoil MTG in tranny?
US gallons of non-ethanol 87. 5W-30 Conventional. The Mobil 1 gear oil you recommended is what I put in the tranny (you'll recall)
Forum won't allow me to introduce a new topic. On your 2002, Fish, does your A/C blow cold? What is the "normal" chill temperature on a 90-95 degree day when A/C is on in the recirculation mode?
I used mine today, outside temperature was 92, and it blew cold, but it seems it didn't blow as cold as it normally does.
Original system - haven't seen a recharge yet - but might check it out later. On the days that it is over 90 degrees F ambient, but less than 100 degrees - A/C on max recirculate might be 20-25 degrees F cooler than ambient (depending on relative humidity). If it gets pass 100 degrees - the A/C system can't keep up with the solar loading on the car if I'm sitting still, if I'm moving it can keep up.
Specs say for ambient temps between 86-95 degrees, the A/C system should be able to maintain temperatures at the vents at 66-68 degrees. For ambient temps between 96-105 degrees, the A/C system should be able to maintain temperatures at the vents at 70-75 degrees. Higher humidity levels = higher vent temperatures.
Then my system is working properly. We had a pre-Indian Summer day yesterday. Outside temp. registered 95 when I started the car and then went down to 92-91. I'd say it was blowing out at those temperatures in the 60s.
Humidity yesterday was 77%.
Additionally, what also made a small boost in fuel economy was replacing the PCV (from the dealership), air filter, and switching to the factory recommended Denso Iridium plugs in the car two days after I bought it.
The alignment was overwhelmingly out, and fuel economy improved a bit upon getting toe and camber in the green zones.
I did notice the tire shop keeps inflating the tires to 35psi, when the door placard indicates 30psi cold.
Battery will be installed tomorrow; I'll let you know how I use the wood to secure it with the hold-down. I will replace the hold-down in the future and it's badly rusted.
AUTOTECH
I just changed my PCV valve factory one also. At 95,000 I am going to change plugs. I wanted Denso like you got but Autozone only had NGK. Did not feel like looking around for the denso. NGK is still factory plugs. My only mistake is I should have got the IFR5T11 rated for 120,000.
When They looked it up at Autozone like they always do they said the ones for my car were iridium ix that's fine I can run these but only last between 30k-60k.
Now back to your high mileage per gallon. It's good to know what helped increase your mileage a little bit.
Thanks
Frank
Frank,
Advance Auto Parts (usually sells more brands than Auto Zone, including Beck/Arnley and Denso) is where I purchased the Denso Iridium. Your 2005 model uses the same as my 2002 model:
Of course, you can always use the Denso Platinum (previous owner had these installed) and they're cheaper: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_pk16tt-platinum-tt-spark-plug-denso_11010037-p?navigationPath=L1*14923%7CL2*15034%7CL3*16071
On the block area by the plugs, when you remove the top plastic engine cover, there is a factory label stating to use only Denso Iridium SK16R11. However, it's not required, of course. I just wanted the Iridium for better fuel economy, slight boost in performance, and long life. You can get over 100,000 miles out of the Iridium. Platinums only last 30-40K, so to me it made sense to pay $9 each for the Iridiums.
There are a variety of coupon codes to choose from: http://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com
I always choose to buy online, pick-up in store. You can enter a coupon code and get the discount applied. They are good at having your order fulfilled in an hour. And, you spend enough, you can also get free shipping.
Down the road, when I replace the oxygen sensor (US or DS), I'll buy the OEM Denso from Advance.
I've never been a fan of Auto Zone, home of Duralast and ValuCrap.
AUTOTECH
I know the denso sk16r11 are factory recommended so is the NGK IFR5T11. Both are listed in my owners manual.
And I did get Iridium plug. They are NGK IRIDIUM IX fine tip plugs. That's why they are rate for 30k-60k because of fine tip.
I did not know advanced auto sold denso thanks. Next time I will get the 120,000 mile plugs you got.
I want to take plastic engine cover off and see this label you are talking about. I was not looking for it but when I had cover off to change PCV valve did not see label on my 05 corolla
Frank
It's on the left-hand side.
I don't have a hard-copy of the manual, so I have to access it free via Toyota's website. I just went with what I read on that label.
For me, it made sense to go with the Denso Iridium instead of replacing every 30-40K.
However, it's still a good idea to pull them out at around that mileage to look at the tips. Good way to know the condition of your engine. Amazingly, the Densos I took out had the healthy light brown.
Got the battery in, solved the hold-down problem. While I was down there, I removed the recovery tank, drained present coolant into a bowl, and flushed out the tank. Hardly any build-up in the bottom. When I change it out, I'll just siphon out what's in there instead of taking the battery out again. I'll provide photos later.
Part of the starting problem on the old battery (from 2004) was massive amounts of that white, crusty residue all over the connectors. So bad on the positive terminal, that I had to use my lug-nut tool from the trunk to get the connector to budge off the terminal by hitting it. (I changed it in the parking lot at AAP)
AUTOTECH
Did you ever change your power steering fluid. If so did you siphon out reservoir and then fill it up with new fluid or you did a complete flush. I was just curious because I am going to change mine shortly
Frank
Used plastic piece included with battery as hold-down (states on that piece it is meant for that purpose). Holds down firm; battery doesn't move.
Will have to replace battery hold-down assembly, as it is rusted and bending to the point of breaking apart in two areas. Hopefully can find one at http://www.lkqselfserve.com in the near future before snow arrives.
Also, this plastic intake pipe to filter housing is not flush. I feel a screw-like thing with a rubber grommet in-between underneath and it seems weak (I know, poor description). Have you had a problem with this, Fish? (First photo is as-is, second photo is me making it flush):
AUTOTECH
Did you ever change your power steering fluid. If so did you siphon out reservoir and then fill it up with new fluid or you did a complete flush. I was just curious because I am going to change mine shortly
Frank
Three weeks ago. Used siphon. Still pink, but will replace more in 2,000 miles.
AUTOTECH
Now when you siphon old power steering fluid out and then put in new. How many times should I do it. One and done or a few times to get more of the old fluid out.
Also what circulates the fluid thought the system the new fluid that is driving or moving steering wheel from lock to lock or both.
Dom and Fish did a great job of explaining the process here https://www.corolland.com/forums/index.php?/topic/25159-changing-power-steering-fluid/
Thanks for the info
Used plastic piece included with battery as hold-down (states on that piece it is meant for that purpose). Holds down firm; battery doesn't move.
Will have to replace battery hold-down assembly, as it is rusted and bending to the point of breaking apart in two areas. Hopefully can find one at http://www.lkqselfserve.com in the near future before snow arrives.
Also, this plastic intake pipe to filter housing is not flush. I feel a screw-like thing with a rubber grommet in-between underneath and it seems weak (I know, poor description). Have you had a problem with this, Fish? (First photo is as-is, second photo is me making it flush):
Not bad - looks like it is really secure. Last time I looked at the 26R battery - they didn't come with that t-shaped spacer, just a grid like spacer that fit on the bottom of the battery.
Yeah, my intake is the same way. I know that some people just remove the bottom piping and replace that with some flex hose or get some mandrel bent aluminum piping of the same diameter and fashion a DIY CAI. Component movement will cause that separation - I take a peek from time to time, but don't always have the time to try and butt the two piece back together. If it gets too loose, won't hurt the engine - as it is still filtering the air, but will cause the intake charge ambient air temps to be higher - act like a short ram intake with the intake side under the hood, close to the exhaust manifold.
So, this has no affect on the idle speed upon start-up on a 80-degree day? When I start the car on a hot day, idle will be up at 1000 or 1100 RPM for about four minutes. When it was 49 degrees last night, idle speed was at 1800 for a few minutes. I know cars idle up to warm up the engine faster, but it seems to be excessive at times. Or, after a ten minute drive, when I stop, the engine is idling at roughly 975 RPM and then in a few seconds, drops to normal: 800 RPM.
Do you experience the same behavior in your 2002?
Nothing that high - unless the ambient temps are very low. In 80 degree weather - might be around 1000-1200 RPMs for only 10 seconds or so - then drop down. Might be because of my automatic transaxle - so mine may not be identical to your case.
But for even a couple of minutes - that is quite unusual. Sounds like there is a vacuum leak somewhere else. Leak at that part of the airbox shouldn't cause this sort of issue - as the MAF is set past that. It is not getting unmetered air into the system.
If you pulled the whole intake system off and replaced with an aftermarket - maybe that will do something different. Different location for the MAF - tube diameter is different, so it is not metering the air correctly.
Might be worthwhile to reset the ECM and see if it was a funky setting in the ECM - wrong fuel trim, etc.
How would you reset the ECM?
Even with an automatic, the Corolla shouldn't behave this way. I don't see anywhere there could be a vacuum issue. Stumped. . .
OBD-II Scanner, pull EFI fuse under the hood, or pull the negative terminal off the battery for minute (this method assumes that you don't have anti-theft, as the alarm system will hate this)
Is there a common vacuum leak area in '98-'02 Corollas? Any hints other than a hose?
Anything between throttle body and cylinder head, and anything connected to anything between throttle body and cylinder head.
