Today I did a little work on the car.

I have the tranny mounts and the brackets and I put them on, but something isn't lined up right.

I may have to change one of the brackets and also reposition the engine/tranny.

The trick is to get all four mounts lined up so the engine/tranny sits in the engine compartment on the braces correctly.

It hangs from the mounts on the left and right side of the car and rests on the mounts on the front and rear.

I have the original mount for the left side of the car (front of the transverse mounted engine) and also the right (I did get another adapter bracket).

The other mounts came from other transaxle (one from a Prism at the local junkyard)..

More to follow.

I got the engine squared away on the mounts and the brackets.

Now the car just needs everything else installed, such as the exhaust, radiator, wiring, etc.

I also have to put in the fluids (and check for leaks).

I put both axles in today on my project car and the passenger's side (long drive shaft) seemed like it went on fine.

The driver's side (short drive shaft) was difficult to tell if it was in all the way.

About the only way to tell for sure, is to fill the differential with ATF and see if it leaks out.

If there is a leak, I will attempt to re-insert the short drive shaft.

More to follow.

Does anyone know if there is a place that sells just the exhaust gaskets (without the pipes)??

I will give my friend a call (he works at Midas Muffler) tomorrow to look for exhaust gaskets.

Those are generally available at any good parts store. Do you have an Advance or Parts America nearby?

I will give my friend a call (he works at Midas Muffler) tomorrow to look for exhaust gaskets.

Those are generally available at any good parts store. Do you have an Advance or Parts America nearby?

I will give my friend a call (he works at Midas Muffler) tomorrow to look for exhaust gaskets.

I checked out the old gaskets and they are actually just round pieces.

 

Thanks, I will check with Kragen Auto Parts - I get a discount there.

I got the gaskets from my friend at Midas and installed them today.

Exhaust is all together and tomorrow I will work on the car again.

A couple of hours each day and eventually the car will be ready to drive.

Left to do is: replacing the VSV, install generator, radiator, charcoal cannister, air filter box and filter, throttle cable, belts, brakes (front only), front wheels, and repair some of the wiring. Still need the ignition neutral safety switch.

Transaxle needs hoses connected to radiator (after installed).

The interior is removed (all seats, back shelf, third brake light, etc.)

I do have speakers to install and also door panels and seat belts (rear only).

Radio does not have connectors for wiring - anyone have them??

A few other parts not mentioned and then a battery.

Today I connected the VSV, installed the alternator, radiator, charcoal cannister, air filter box and filter, throttle cable, belts, brakes (front only), front wheels, and repaired some of the wiring. Still need the ignition neutral safety switch.

Transaxle needs hoses connected to radiator (after installed).

The interior is still removed (all seats, back shelf, third brake light, etc.)

I do have speakers to install and also door panels and seat belts (rear only).

Radio does not have connectors for wiring - anyone have them??

A few other parts not mentioned and then a battery.

I also filled the differential with ATF and the transaxle.

The engine needs oil and the radiator (after getting connected) needs coolant.

More to follow.

P.S. A neighbor came by who saw me working on the car in my garage.

Apparantly he bought his daughter's car that was in a wreck.

The front end was damaged and he will pay me to fix it for him.

It needs a hood, right front fender, headlights, front corner lights, radiator, A/C parts, etc.

I might take him up on the repair request. After all, it is a 7th generation Corolla!!

Today I went shopping at the local junkyard (I go almost every week) and found some more parts.

The best one was the ignition neutral safety switch ($141 at Kragen Auto Parts and $164 from e-bay).

I got it for $13.99 off a 1995 Geo Prism. It had the same transmission (it was already removed and sitting on the ground).

All I had to do was take the switch off. It doesn't come much easier than that at the junkyard.

I also got some hoses, speakers, and a radio.

I filled the car with the essential fluids, oil, coolant, power steering fluid, etc.

The car did not start with one of my spare batteries, so I put it on my charger.

I will try to start it up tomorrow.

More to follow.

The starter will have to be replaced and all the power steering fluid has leaked out.

I have another starter and when I am done with the 1997 in the garage, I will change it.

The power steering fluid leaked out from the top hose (I think I left off one of the crush washers).

I will take it off and add the two washers, then add fluid, and check for leaks (again).

Luckily it is only about a quart and a half of power steering fluid for the pump.

More to follow.

Here are pictures of my house and also the 1997 and my 1995 "Project Car".

The 1997 is a neighbor's car and was repaired.

The 1995 will go back in my garage for more work (starter change, etc.).

Tomorrow I will continue working on the 1995 Corolla.

Today I put in a windshield washer reservoir and filled it with fluid.

I also topped off the radiator with Prestone antifreeze.

I need to change the starter (I tried starting it again and just got clicks).

More to follow.

Today I took out the starter and took it and another to Kragen Auto Parts to be tested.

They both tested good on their machine.

I took the other one and installed it in the car and it failed to work.

It was similar to the old one - just rotated the engine and then started clicking.

After that - dead. I put the battery on a charger and will see about trying a different starter.

More to follow.

A new battery fixed the problem and now the car starts every time.

The car is being loaned out to someone as I fix their 1993 Corolla.

He put the key in the door lock and it broke, so I went to the local junkyard and got another door lock and handle.

I will have to get a key made and install it when I get the car back.

It will cost $42.50 for the key from a local locksmith and the key will be different than the other key.

That's what happens when a car is used - things break on it and need to be fixed.

More to follow.

I got the car back today.

Tomorrow I will check it out again and see what needs repair/replacement.

I plan to change the ATF, as it has been over 100 miles since the tranny was changed.

More to follow.

ATF changed and after another 100 miles I will change it again, just to get it really clean.

I still need to replace the driver's door handle (outside) and replace the lock.

I have another from a junkyard and the key is being made.

More to follow.

ATF changed and after another 100 miles I will change it again, just to get it really clean.

I still need to replace the driver's door handle (outside) and replace the lock.

I have another from a junkyard and the key is being made.

More to follow.

I just replaced both door locks on my prism yesterday. got both from the junkyard with keys for $10.I have two spares if anybody needs them. no keys.

 

remember to unclip the handle lever rod first ,then unbolt 2 bolts on handle , then from the backside pry the tabs up on the narrow front part of the handle. it comes out much easier. the lock will still be clipped in.pull the handle out and you can access the lock much easier from the outside to release the lock clip. it took a lot of trial and error to learn the easy way to remove them. i have installed or removed mine or junkyard pieces about 6 times due to different combinations and new locksets.

when you replace the lock its a pain to line up the lock and get the bolt through the door ,through the lock and screw the handle in. i find it easier if i put the key in the lock and use it to line up the lock in its place before i use my 10 mm socket .I also use a small screwdriver or awl to line up all 3 holes then get the bolt on the socket and put it in. i also used a bit of grease on my new key to lube them . now they work like new.

if a key breaks off in the lock , you can always take the lock cylinder out by removing the c-clip and push it out . if you do not want to remove the lock , i have heard of people using j.b. weld or 5 minute epoxy to glue the key back together in the lock and pulling it out. then a new key can be made from the 2 parts on a regular key machine because the key machine clamp will hold them together. thats as long as the key is not twisted too much.you can straighten it if you are careful..

I got two keys made for the lock for $30.00 and changed the old handle and lock.

Now I have two keys for the lock on the driver's door, and another key that works on the passneger's side door and also the trunk.

I am thinking about going back to the local junkyard and getting the lock from the passenger's side door. It uses the same key.

The car was a Prizm and I hope it is still there.

More to follow.

I went to the local junkyard and got the lock from the same Prizm for the passenger's side.

I haven't put it in yet.

It works with the same key I had made.

I also took the lock for the trunk lid, although they are a little different.

I can swap that one too.

You keep teasing me with that Riv in the background (we chatted about it before)... So, if I show up at 2:00 am one night, will you help me hook up some chains, and I'll tow it away - to a better home (mine)?

Back on subject, it's always interesting to read your posts. Good luck.

You keep teasing me with that Riv in the background (we chatted about it before)... So, if I show up at 2:00 am one night, will you help me hook up some chains, and I'll tow it away - to a better home (mine)?

Back on subject, it's always interesting to read your posts. Good luck.

Call me first (I may be at work).

 

Thanks,

I write my posts as a journal and also to help others that need information.

Hopefully my experience will enlighten others when they read about them here.

I have received lots of (fake/bogus/bad) checks for my cars.

Tonight I got a call from someone who wants to buy both.

Let's see if they actually are truthfull.

More to follow.