i mean that there should be no rotational play. the wheel and joints and axle should all move exactly as one, not even 1mm of rotational slack.

the inner joint should expand in and out, the outer joint should pivot. to further clarify, the axle should not be sliding out of the transmission, the inner joint allows the axle to change length as the suspension moves up and down. when the wheel moves up the axle gets shorter, wheel goes down the axle gets longer. the inner joint handles that. the outer joint allows the wheel to turn side to side.

I just finished putting it all back together and will be going for a test drive.

Up on jacks stands it was very quiet.

Seems like it was really bad hub and bearings.

I will find out. More to follow.

The drive proved that the hub and bearing were the source of the loud front end noise.

After they were changed, the front end was quiet.

The car is ready for sale.

All I need is the radio brackets and then it is finished.

Not a necessity, just a small detail.

The prospective owners are estimating one week before they can come up with the cash.

I can drive the car until then, and also look for my next project car.

The car is running great and the noise is gone from the front end.

The transmission is shifting normally.

I washed the car yesterday and drove the car yesterday and today.

Still would like radio mounts.

Only other thing I noticed is the tie rod ends (ball joints?) rubber got torn.

There is a little grease leaking out.

Does anyone know if that can be repaired, or if they have to be replaced?

I must have torn the rubber cover on the upper and lower ball joints (I did not have the SST).

Are they called "ball joints"? There is one on the end of the tie rod and one on the bottom of the steering knuckle.

I will look around for tie rod ends and also lower ball joints.

If I can get them cheap enough I will replace them, otherwise drive it for a while with them leaking.

They are not worn and they do operate normally (at least until they dry out from lack of lube).

What's the consensus - replace or use until bad??

I got some radio mount brackets from e-Bay and I am waiting for them to arrive.

Should position the radio properly and make the center console appearance better.

I got some radio mount brackets from e-Bay and installed them today.

They positioned the radio properly and made the center console appearance better.

bad wheel bearings are easy to see and hear. be a loud popping sound usually during turning. jack up the car and shake the wheel should be loose if it is bad. i advise changing them if you have the replacements. common things i have seen with my car is the center hub nut the cotter pin breaks and the nut loosens up. another thing with replacement axles from autostores is that the nut that comes with it always seems to come loose no matter what. i always use the orignal nut. i have also upgraded to a stronger metal cotter pin. this has solved my bad wheel bearing problems.

ps never really heard of someone replacing wheel bearings while the hubs were still on the car. be kinda curious to hear how its done cause i cant really think of a good way to do it and the fact that the hub comes off in a matter of minutes would just be easier to go have them pressed

Never heard of wheel bearings causing a popping sound but maybe if they are ready to fall out in your hand.

I know bad CV joints will cause popping/crackling/crunching sounds when turning. A normal symptom of a bad axle bearing is usually a whirring or grumbling sound.

Much easier to do with the correct tool kit. Why drop knuckles etc if you don't have to. The kit is not cheap so it would only be cost effective if you owned a shop and did a lot of bearing replacements. It consists on many cups and disks which effectively press old bearing out and new bearing in with the help of a strong pneumatic impact gun.

Axle nut tightened to the proper torque and proper use of a cotter pin and castle retainer (in good condition) should never break or loosen.

bad wheel bearings are easy to see and hear. be a loud popping sound usually during turning. jack up the car and shake the wheel should be loose if it is bad. i advise changing them if you have the replacements. common things i have seen with my car is the center hub nut the cotter pin breaks and the nut loosens up. another thing with replacement axles from autostores is that the nut that comes with it always seems to come loose no matter what. i always use the orignal nut. i have also upgraded to a stronger metal cotter pin. this has solved my bad wheel bearing problems.

ps never really heard of someone replacing wheel bearings while the hubs were still on the car. be kinda curious to hear how its done cause i cant really think of a good way to do it and the fact that the hub comes off in a matter of minutes would just be easier to go have them pressed

they should never break or loosen under normal use. as many know my car does not daily drive ever. track use only

The hub and bearings were changed by a machine shop.

I brought them the knuckle with the old parts and also the new parts.

The axle nuts were put on very tight.

The torque (in the book) was supposed to be 159 ft-lbs and I used my body weight (174 LBS).

That should have been plenty and the nut cover and cotter pin went on easily.

The wheels turn without any excessive "whirring" or grumbling noise now.

Ok...that makes sense. Do you need to change the bearings often with your type of racing?

they should never break or loosen under normal use. as many know my car does not daily drive ever. track use only

I agree - if the axle nut is put on properly, it should never come loose or be a problem.

The CV joint is more likely to wear (especially if the boot tears and it gets dry).

That can cause lots of noise and problems with the drivability of the vehicle.

The hub and bearings can also wear and cause excessive noise and wheel problems.

Update: The car has just turned 176,000 miles and the hub and bearings are going strong.

The car has been operating satisfactorily and is expected to be sold tomorrow.

The hub and bearing change seems to be what was needed along with the transaxle and CV joints and drive shafts.

I think the 1993 being the first year for the body style change could use some improvement.

The 3-speed without overdrive lacks the benefit of smoothness and less noise that the overdrive provides at higher speeds.

It still gets pretty good gas mileage and performs great on the highway.

It would make a terrific first car and also a great daily driver, especially for a student.

I will let you know how the sale goes.

Car was sold today and the new owners have gone to the DMV to get it registered in their name.

One less car in my driveway, although the car was a good one to drive.

I am working on my neighbors 1997 and when that is done, I have a 1995 to fix.

More to follow.