Bikeman982
I have switched to Mobil 1, but have not noticed any significant improvement in mileage. The oil does seem to be fine and if the change interval is less frequent, then it is better.
by BabyBird200, April 15, 2006
Bikeman982
I have switched to Mobil 1, but have not noticed any significant improvement in mileage. The oil does seem to be fine and if the change interval is less frequent, then it is better.
Here is a question I often wrestle with...
What is the maximum length of time regardless of mileage you would go between oil changes?
I find that I do not drive the standard 3k in 3 months and for my first oil change I waited until 4 months at only 2600 miles.
I put in Mobile 1 5w30…
Bikeman982
Here is a question I often wrestle with...What is the maximum length of time regardless of mileage you would go between oil changes?
I find that I do not drive the standard 3k in 3 months and for my first oil change I waited until 4 months at only 2600 miles.
I put in Mobile 1 5w30…
You could probably go a very long time, if you kept the oil condition good by adding an occasional top-off. That would mix with the dirty oil and make it last a little longer. If you look at your oil on the dipstick and it looks really dirty or smells kind of burned - then it definitely needs to be changed.
Here is a question I often wrestle with...For applications where mileage doesn't roll on very quickly, the time to change the oil will vary depending on situations such as:What is the maximum length of time regardless of mileage you would go between oil changes?
I find that I do not drive the standard 3k in 3 months and for my first oil change I waited until 4 months at only 2600 miles.
I put in Mobile 1 5w30…
- The number of cold starts
- Distance traveled
- Quality of oil/filtration used
- Ambient operating temperature
- Engine condition
Usually, if the mileage isn't there - then you need to change the engine oil about every 6 months. Just because the oil doesn't have lots of miles on it - doesn't mean it isn't working hard. You have to conscience of corrosion (condensation in crankcase and naturally forming acids in oil from combustion processes) to specific engine components. If you really don't drive that much - might want to consider an additive to "pickle" the engine - keeping a good film of oil on all exposed engine surfaces. Same way with the fuel - adding a fuel stabilizer will help in entended periods of inactivity.
Sure fire way to know of the oil is doing its job - get a used oil analysis. For around $20 - you'll get a chemical analysis of the oil and its condition - you'll get a go or no go on the health of the oil and may get suggestions of what to do (depending on used oil analysis company).
ah I drive it every day just not that far to work about 15 miles one way... However due to the lack of planning in my city we have some of the worst traffic for a city of our size… I try to avoid stop and go.. However it seems I have no way home now without it… 
Ill probably stick to 4 to 6 months… It was down 3/8th of a qt when I changed it… So I hope it doesn’t increase…
I was looking at Blackstone and I will probably do that after my next change...
Bikeman982
ah I drive it every day just not that far to work about 15 miles one way... However due to the lack of planning in my city we have some of the worst traffic for a city of our size… I try to avoid stop and go.. However it seems I have no way home now without it…Ill probably stick to 4 to 6 months… It was down 3/8th of a qt when I changed it… So I hope it doesn’t increase…
I was looking at Blackstone and I will probably do that after my next change...
Is Blackstone a brand??
Blackstone is a oil analysis company: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
I've used them for almost all of my used oil testing, they provide very good service, fast turn around on samples, and personalized comments.
Cost about $20 for a standard test - add $10 more for TBN check (tells you how well the oil is doing - additive package wise).
Here you go:
Blackstone screwed up the second from leftmost column, I can't remember what the miles on oil and miles on unit should have been anymore. After this 'waste of new oil' I decided to start aiming towards at least 10,000 per oil change interval.
I have all types of driving on that last oil sample, hours 70+ of I80 and I81 to and from various points, a month or more of averaging 3 miles one way to and from work, lots of WOT redline runs, etc etc.
Its nice having peace of mind, and its nice knowing that you are actually getting your $$$ worth out of your oil (duration and protection).
Engine uses zero oil, the 'make up' oil listed is the approx. 1/2 quart of additives I add regularly through the oil change interval.
Garrett: You actually paid for Dyson's personal take?
Bikeman982
Here you go:Blackstone screwed up the second from leftmost column, I can't remember what the miles on oil and miles on unit should have been anymore. After this 'waste of new oil' I decided to start aiming towards at least 10,000 per oil change interval.
I have all types of driving on that last oil sample, hours 70+ of I80 and I81 to and from various points, a month or more of averaging 3 miles one way to and from work, lots of WOT redline runs, etc etc.
Its nice having peace of mind, and its nice knowing that you are actually getting your $$$ worth out of your oil (duration and protection).
Engine uses zero oil, the 'make up' oil listed is the approx. 1/2 quart of additives I add regularly through the oil change interval.
Is that a normal analysis? What does it mean?
Was it worth the test to see what the oil is made up of??
What would an abnormal results look like?
What is it that you have to be concerned about if it shows up on a test?
If the numbers are small (most are in PPM or Parts Per Millon) - then you are fine. They list typical trends for materials found in similar cars in the very last column. Big numbers in the first several rows (wear metals) could mean trouble. The higher numbers for calcium, phosphorus, boron, magnesium, zinc, etc are normal - those make up parts of the additive package in all motor oils. Just different companies use different ratios in their own mix (this is also how they find out who makes who - additive package the same, same base vendor, different box).
If it worth it - depends on the owner. For me $20-$30 once a year or after a funky oil change gives me some piece of mind. Also has to be done for anyone extending their oil change intervals. Can't do a good job if the oil is not up to par.
Bikeman982
If the numbers are small (most are in PPM or Parts Per Millon) - then you are fine. They list typical trends for materials found in similar cars in the very last column. Big numbers in the first several rows (wear metals) could mean trouble. The higher numbers for calcium, phosphorus, boron, magnesium, zinc, etc are normal - those make up parts of the additive package in all motor oils. Just different companies use different ratios in their own mix (this is also how they find out who makes who - additive package the same, same base vendor, different box).If it worth it - depends on the owner. For me $20-$30 once a year or after a funky oil change gives me some piece of mind. Also has to be done for anyone extending their oil change intervals. Can't do a good job if the oil is not up to par.
Sounds like a very good precautionary tool.
What happens if it looks bad - tear down engine and replace parts??
If it looks bad - then start to take measures. A bad oil sample is not the end of the engine - just a precursor to potential damage. Plus you can't take every sample as 100% accurate - sampling techniques can greatly influence the sample composition.
But if you see a problem, have other test done the following oil change and maybe even send it out to other places - they all come back with bad news - then I'd say tear down the engine.
I'm just doing it to help see inside my engine, I want to know if I am doing everything right, if I am beating it too hard, if I am making best use of the oil, etc etc.
buurin : I did have Dyson take a look, he (basically) recommended that I proceed with what I was intending, with a slight modification to the LC20 dosage.
bikeman : Blackstone is nice in that they give you a very generic take on the report, in this case it was missing, but in general they'll just say how the wear compares to their running averages for a given engine and whether they recommend extending or decreasing the oil usage interval, pretty generic stuff. The right hand black-highlighted column shows their running average of all 1ZZ (I think, maybe average all samples sent to them?), the left hand black-highlighted shows my averages on my 1ZZ. Aim for lower than average in the 'metals' and you're probably doing OK.
I broke the engine in with a progressive stretching method and frequent engine breaking, changed the factory fill around 1500 or 2000 to dino supertech 5W30, changed to Mobil 1 5W30 at 5,000, M1 5W30 EP somewhere around 10,000 miles, and have been going longer and longer between samples since. I'm at 25,929 today and have about another 3 or 4k to go till the next sample. I'm expecting it to have slightly higher wear than indicated in the previous UOA as I have had much less highway travel, much more % of short trips just to and from work.
I'm pretty much addicted to getting UOA now, I can barely wait to pull the oil, I just have to know now 
Oh Toyota, where is my oil life monitor???
Bikeman982
I have never had my cars oil analyzed. Most cars I have I do fairly frequent oil changes and don't worry too much about it. I think if it started to burn an excessive amount I would get concerned. I haven't had cars that long and the ones I have owned have been for only a couple of years. I change cars frequently, just for variety.
I use Quaker State Synthentic its awesome, you can feel the difference once you get the oil through the engine.
I used Mobil1 Clean 7500, its supposedly a high detergent oil.
I'm thinking of sending in a sample to be analyzed, but im not sure since i add a little ATF before i change to help extend the life of my worn valve seals.
Here is a question I often wrestle with...What is the maximum length of time regardless of mileage you would go between oil changes?
I find that I do not drive the standard 3k in 3 months and for my first oil change I waited until 4 months at only 2600 miles.
I put in Mobile 1 5w30…
If your car is under warranty, I would change it every 5K miles and keep records. If your car is out of warranty, you will need to send off for UOA. I think a lot of people can get away with two full oil changes a year, but I will not run more then 6K miles on a filter. So, you can change your filter and then add a quart of Mobil 1 to top your oil off. Acually, maybe only half a quart. The Corolla filter is a tiny filter.
Latly, I've just been running wal-mart synthetic (group III) and super tech filter and changing the oil over 5K miles. BTOG has some forums with UOA on a newer Maxima and the results were rather good. I will probably just continue doing this. Mobil 1 is more of a performance oil, but it can be used in long term oil changes as well. Everyone has a opinion, but at the moment, our car is still under warranty and I have to change the oil every 5K miles.
Does anyone know the reputation of Shell Motor Oil? Is it an alright oil if one changes every 3 months?
Does anyone know the reputation of Shell Motor Oil? Is it an alright oil if one changes every 3 months?Depends on what Shell oil you are taking about. If it is the Rotella variant - it is some of the best oil out there. Their synthetic and blends are very good from what I've heard - but I haven't heard too much about their conventional line.
fish, what do you think about the mobil1 clean 7500 synthetic blend?
Mobil 1 7500 is good stuff. Marketed as and the specs make it look like a synthetic blend - I'll have to see a VOA to make sure it is really is - but from what I've seen from personal use (use it in a 70's muscle car/project car), pretty good stuff - engine looks clean, no varnish on it like before.
cool thanks, i like it...but boy does it smell nasty! the bottle says its a synthetic blend, 7500 miles would be most of the year for me, i changed it around 3K miles this last change. i ran some ATF through prior to the change so of course it came out nasty black. i think this time around at 2000 miles im going to send in a sampe for a UOA to see how the oil and my engine are doing.
I have Corolla 96 with 112k miles on it (bought in 99 at 45k miles) and I never had to spend a dime on any engine problem. Its was running smooth from last 7 years but from last 2-3 months I am noticing a bit more noise from engine. Is that normal as its getting older or I need to do something? One of my friend advised me to switch to Synthetic Oil from regular. Will that help? If yes, should i ask to clean the engine first or not? As per my same friend, you dont need to clean the engine and in 2-3 oil changes, it will be all synthetic inside.
Any experiences? suggestions?
As engines start to age - not unusual to have some noises crop up. Might just be the valvetrain (if the noise it really bad, might need to check valve clearances) or normal carbon deposits. A timing belt that hasn;t been changed in a while could also cause some noise (belt could have stretch throwing the timing off a hair). Might just need a good tune up.
I would could try a synthetic blend a try, couldn't hurt. Most "high mileage" oils are synthetic blends - many have seen them help with oil consumption from stuck piston rings or worn seals. Don't need a flushing oil or flushing fill - as your friend mentioned - changed over a series of drains will accomplish it for you. But I would advise against from switching back and forth between synthetic to conventional - as you will not get the full benefits of synthetic oils that way. Just pick one and stick with it.
