i like to joke when i say i have corona it is corolla dx.........
as far as the vibrations etc. here is the scoop. I plan to change spark plugs, possibly cables and distributor cap, maybe even fuel filter. I think I will go with fuel filter first (cheapest solution). 2nd would be spark plugs,
should i go with denso irridiums, or bosch platinum 4's??
thanks fish, bikeman, sallom for your input. I was told that oil pan is so hard to remove because it involves
lots of labour time...mechanic said it is rusty, I have not seen it. I kind of want to go under the car, and play with it, but it so cold man, it is like -20celsius now, I live close to Toronto, Canada
Fuel filter would be a good thing to replace - since you are able to get at it relatively easily (1993-1997 Corollas had them under the hood - 1998+ Corollas are inside the gas tank).
I would go with plain copper or plain platinum plugs on that particular generation of Corolla. Bosch Platinum +4 are decent - but your OEM ignition will only cause it to spark over one of the ground electrodes - rendering it as effective as a plain Bosch Platinum plug. Plus there have been reports of the Plat+4 electrodes breaking off and scoring the cylinder walls badly (brittle material - that's why they tell you NOT to gap those plugs + most don't have the proper tool to effectively gap those plugs).
Iridium is a good choice for long life - but I wouldn't see those running any better than plain copper plugs changed at regular intervals - cost layout would be about the same over the long run (Iridium retails for around $12 a plug, copper about a $2 a piece - Iridium lasts as long as 120K miles, Copper as long as 30K miles). For the 4AFE, 4AGE, 7AFE generation of engines - copper or platinum came OEM, for 1ZZFE, 2ZZGE engines - Iridium was OEM.
Oil pan is definitely tough to get off - not impossible - but real close. They used sealant from OEM to "glue" it to the block. But there are pry points around the circumference that you can stick a large screwdriver or prybar to pull the pan off. Definitely labor intensive. Timing belt is even more so - I'd recommend with that many miles to also replace the water pump. Don't want to risk having to take it all apart later when the water pumps decides to let go on you - will save you a ton of money in additional labor - since they will be down to the water pump to replace the timing belt anyway. Same goes with the accessory belts for the alternator, powersteering pump, etc - they will come off anyway when they change the timing belt.