Adjusting Valves On 1zz-fe

You can turn the crank with a ratcheting wrench - or a socket and a breaker bar. Just find a socket that will fit over the center bolt on the crank and you that to turn the engine over. With the plugs out of engine - it should turn over quite easily, with very little resistance.

Find TDC (Top Dead Center) by rotating the crank and lining up the match mark with the "zero" line on the timing bracket (right next to the crank). Might have to keep rotating the crank until you find TDC on the compression stroke - as there are two points where the piston will be at the very top. I believe you'll have to turn the crank clockwise - don't turn it the opposite way. You can verify this by quickly "tapping" the key and see which way the crank wants to spin.

With a 17 mm socket, crankshaft is in fact rotated clockwise as seen when looking at the crankshaft pulley bolt.

I adjusted all 16 valves at or close to minimum spec at 100,000 miles with 7 new lifters, and by switching the other ones around. I had a couple exhaust valve clearances at near maximum spec which could be heard ticking. The others were closer to middle of range, and all the clearances had increased since my 65,000 miles check... Lifters are available in 35 different marked thicknesses of 0.02 mm increments from 5.06 to 5.74 mm. No need to measure the lifter thickness which is clearly marked underneath. The lifters' thickness markings do match their actual thickness, as measured with metric micrometer, but you have to remove the camshafts to access the lifters.

A 5.060 mm lifter has a "06" marking underneath, and is Toyota part # 13751-46030... A 5.080 mm lifter has an "08" marked undernmeath and is Toyota part # 13751-46040, and so on up to the 5.740 mm lifter with "74" marking; part # 13751-46370.

Some original lifters may be in 0.010 mm increments (5.490 mm with a "49" marking).

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_2004_TOYOTA_CELICA_ZZT230L-BLMSHA_1302.html?hl=13751

http://madstyle1972.com/Repair/14/201lbc04/a040001.pdf

I did it without removing engine mounting insulator, serpentine belt and tensioner, by locating TDC with a straw on piston #1 (passenger side) with spark plugs removed for easy crankshaft rotation. I also didn't have to unbolt timing gears from the camshafts.

Thank you guys. I hope to perform in couple weeks. Do you guys think I should remove the spark plugs?

Also in two weeks, I be will ready to change oil. Should I drain the oil and do the adjust the valve. Again, thanks for answers.

You'll have to pull the plugs to remove the valvecover anyways. As for the oil change - personally, I'd change the oil afterwards. Just in-case some tiny debris fall into the engine, you'll be able to flush it out with the oil change after checking the valves.

Thanks for the qucik reponse.

When I trun the crankshaft pully first time I have to align to mark 0 and adjust the valve. Then I trun again to 360 and align to mark 0 again to adjust the second set of valve. Please verify.

That's right. You can measure inlet valve clearances on cylinder #1 and #2 and exhaust valves on #1 and #3 when cylinder #1 is at TDC/compression at every 2 revolutions of the crankshaft. You can then measure inlet valve clearances on #3 and #4 and exhaust valve clearances on #2 and #4 at the next revolution when #4 is at TDC/compression.

http://madstyle1972.com/Repair/14/201lbc04/a040001.pdf

Let me know what measurements you get, and which lifters you have in their respective locations. Do not mix them around. I'll help you choose replacement lifters, and let you know which of your original lifters can be swapped.

Thanks for the answers. We will in couple weeks and update the results.

I did clean throttle body and that made a big difference. I am sure that was never cleaned. Now it runs smooth.

friendly_jacek

. I also didn't have to unbolt timing gears from the camshafts.

What do you mean by that? Did you just lift the camshaft with timing chain still on?

How about the chain tensioner, did you remove one?

. I also didn't have to unbolt timing gears from the camshafts.

What do you mean by that? Did you just lift the camshaft with timing chain still on?

How about the chain tensioner, did you remove one?

After removng the chain tensioner, I slipped the camshafts out of the timing chain without unbolting the timing gears from the camshafts.

friendly_jacek

. I also didn't have to unbolt timing gears from the camshafts.
What do you mean by that? Did you just lift the camshaft with timing chain still on?
How about the chain tensioner, did you remove one?
After removng the chain tensioner, I slipped the camshafts out of the timing chain without unbolting the timing gears from the camshafts.

Thanks man! I'm checking the clearance this weekend. I hope it's OK as the procedure is a royal pain. I'm still not clear about the hooking/unhooking part of chain tensioner as per the factory manual.

For the chain tensioner - the hooking/unhooking portion will be quite clear once you have the tensioner in your hands. That is just to prevent the spring loaded, ratcheted piston from popping out during installation.

Check all cam gears and timing chain reference marks with piston #1 (passenger side) at TDC/compression, and suspend timing chain before removing cams. I also tied a colored twist-tie on the chain's middle point between cam marks after counting the number of chain pins.

Check all cam gears and timing chain reference marks with piston #1 (passenger side) at TDC/compression, and suspend timing chain before removing cams. I also tied a colored twist-tie on the chain's middle point between cam marks after counting the number of chain pins.

That is a great suggestion! I usually mark mine with a metal marker - as I have easy access to them. Also have a pile of nylon ties always lying around - might give that a go the next time around.

friendly_jacek

OK, I took valvecover off to get ready for valve clearance. I was surprised how clean everything was.

But here is my problem. The marks on the camshaft gears don't allign with the marks on the timeing chain. I'm the original owner and as far as I'm aware, no engine work was done. The engine runs fine, except for a bit disappointing MPG.

See the picture. Any ideas? Should I redo the chain timing if it's only one tooth off?

Unfortunately I can't post the image. I'm getting the "You are not allowed to use that image extension on this community." First time for me. Here are the pictures though on BITOG: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2884705Post2884705

Edit: never mind, I figured it out, and timing was correct. Details are in that BITOG post.

I still don't know why Corolland refused to post my picture. Is photobucket not OK here?

Weird - photobucket works find for me. But that was before the forum software was updated.

Anyways, saw the engine on BITOG - CLEAN! What oil and OCI are you running? Has a nice light amber color, no signs of excessive deposits - looks like a well running engine. Looks cleaner than my own 2002.

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friendly_jacek

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