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reyt32

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About reyt32

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  1. jst had my brake fix. the problem i had is i install the left caliper to the right and the left to the rear. all the the bleeder valve is facing downward, because of this even though when you bleed the brakes and you got no air present, the fluid is unable to occupy the whole caliper fluid chamber. (thanks w/ the help of a new friend which happen to be a very good and experienced mechanic). i also ask him if i will reinstall the stock 7/8 inch master cylinder (i install the 13/16" from the donor car), he told me i that i will experience a different pedal feel (softer pedal). the 13/16" feels a little bit sensitive because it create more pressure. (venturi effect).
  2. g'day, had finish the complete rear brake swap today. except i could not run it because of the spongy/long brake pedal travel. had gone back to the wreckers yesterday to remove from the donor car the master cylinder and the pressure modulating valve and the metering valve and replace the stock set-up but the problem would not go. bleed the master cylinder and the wheel calipers which all air is purge but same problem in fact had consumed 1 litre of brake fluid for this . a mechanic friend of mine drop by to check my job and could not find a fault, but he is very sure there is an internal leakage in the brake master cylinder (fluid is passing thru the piston). had called up the parts store today but they dont have a stock for a repair kit and could not get the parts needed because there parts source is close during sunday. what i did today,finish up the park brake installation (works perfect) and remove the donor car master cylinder from the car, dsassemble and check the inside components. the inside bore is perfect no scratches and scoring except the rubber on the front piston is very soft that you could not feel any resistance when you slide in the bore. also do the same w/ the stock master cylinder when i disassemble it but find out that bore diameter is bigger compare to the donor car. the donor car master bore dia is 13/16" while the stock is 7/8" diameter. all other shape and dimensions are similar. also the pressure modulating valve hole diameters of the donor is around 2mm while the stock is around 1.5mm. because of this i am contemplating to use the stock master cylinder given the fact that the AE112 corolla is a little bit heavier w/ the AE102. i want to ask your concession and advise w/ this guys am i doing the right thing in here? rey t
  3. g'day, when you get a hard pedal after 3-4 kicks it stays w/out sinking. doing the same thing 3-4 kicks then start the engine and the pedal goes down slowly meaning the brake booster is doing alright. p.s sorry fish the handbrake cable is not an issue here. actually i done attaching the right rear up to the handbrake equalizer, but i think i need to slacken the handbrake adjuster more when i will attach the left rear.
  4. g'day, did the brake swap this afternoon and it is actually a bolt off/bolt on affair actually. did it around 4 hrs (both rear wheels) but had leave the hand brake cable unattached and did the brake bleeding to see if it is functioning properly. yep it is working ,but it engages after 3-4 kicks on the brake pedal which is abnormal. had re do the brake bleeding many times just to make sure air is purge in the brake lines and it is pretty good actually. any suggestion about the problem? i will visit the wreckers tomorrow to look for the donor car again if it is still there to get the master cylinder and the proportioning valve if the price is within budget. pls visit this site autospeed.drive.com.au/cmc/A_2296/printArticle.html
  5. g'day, i have done an initial set-up last friday of the donor axle assembly on the car itself and it is pretty spot on. the hand brake cables bolting locations up to the hand brake equalizer is also spot on (just have to remove few fasteners on the middle exhaust heatshield and i can attach the wheels parking brake cable). I have done cleaning and initial checks on the caliper assembly and found one of the slider pin and bolt is bent (due to mishandling during the transfer from the wreckers holding yard going to the disassembly bay i suppose) but i gone back to the wreckers and got a replacement from a toyota celica. also check for any signs of misalignment (none whatsoever) and the rubber parts are still acceptably ok but i will ultimately purchase a minor caliper repair kit to replace all of the rubber components. (luckily 5 years ago i got hold of a haynes brake manual which will be put to work soon). had also check conditions of the hub axle bearings and its quite dry and repack it w/ grease. had ask a price quote for a Bendix general CT (ceramics) pads because the old disc pads is 75%worn out. on the status of the rear disc rotors, when i got hold of the price tomorrow i will decide if i will reface it (actual measurement is 8.8mm/standard is 9mm/scrap thickness is 8mm) or purchase a new rotors. had check the lateral run out and its about 0.15-0.2mm. if time permits due to my social and religious obligation maybe i will swap it this coming weekend or if not on the first week of july (1 week holiday from work) rey t
  6. g'day, my car (ae112r h/back conquest) is udergoing rear disc swap from a corolla ae102r h/back conquest. snap some pictures and done measurement on the donor axle carrier seems to be spot on. the good thing the donor car is not abs equipped w/c is same w/ my car and the master cylinder and the tubings set-up are similar. will keep you posted once i finish working on it. rey t
  7. g'day, maybe its time to replace the fuel pump? what series corolla (ae101,102 etc) you have, and the engine (7afe or 4afe).
  8. g'day, try to spray penetrating oil on the rear hub center. let it stay just for the oil to penetrate and knock the drum off by using a soft hammer by hitting the outer face periphery of the drum or use a jacking bolt by putting a bolt (probabaly m6) on the threaded hole located near the center of the drum. or maybe you miss releasing the handbrake, i got that funny experience on my corolla. rey
  9. g'day, the tyre puncture can be easily fix, i usually repair it myself using a tyre puncture repair kit sold here at supercheap auto or repco store here queensland, australia. just follow the procedure accompanied w/ the kit. i am a bit worried w/ the sidewall crack, for me i will replace it. regarding the use of different thread tyres or brand, i reckon you can use it as long as you put it at the rear. in my own experience using it on the front it can cause erratic handling problems. rey t
  10. g'day, the way i look at it, the front calipers sliding pins is stuck. it maybe bent or corroded which prevent the caliper assy to slide and to equally grip the rotor during application of brakes. the way to check it if the sliding pins are ok are as follows: 1) remove the caliper assy from the torque plates (the usual 2 bolts you remove when replacing the pads) 2) the bolts that you remove from the caliper are the ones connected to the sliding pins. try to slide it and check if the rubber boots are deteriorated. the pins must slide smoothly, not tight. if the rubber has deteriorated check the pins for wear or lubricate it w/ hi temp grease if still usable. don't put it back w/o the rubber boots and also check for bent pins. hope this will help. rey t
  11. g'day, i read an article from a motoring magazine stating that japanese build toyota vehicle has a higher resale value compared to australian built toyota. rey t
  12. g'day, i discovered this shortcut method of removing the cv shaft from the wreckers. 1) if your car has steel rim, remove the plastic wheel cover. 2) remove the cotter pin and axle shaft lock nut cap and undo the axle shaft bearing lock nut. (if the car has alloy wheel you need to apply the brake to undo the lock nut) 3) raise the car using a jack and support it w/ a stand and remove the wheel 4) drain the transaxle fluid. 5) using a soft face hammer hit the axle shaft inorder to separate it from the bearing hub. 6) separate the strut assembly from the steering knuckle (you need a pin punch to remove the bolts once you undo the nut) and be careful on the brake line not to overstretch. 7) the knuckle assembly can be move in this situation, move the assembly sideward towards the rear of the fender and push the axle shaft to disengage it from the bearing hub. 8) with a pry bar or a big screw driver on hand , position yourself under the car and separate the axle shaft from the transaxle by prying the axle shaft outward. (use the ear of the inboard joints in prying if available) the installation is the opposite of disassembly. i use this technique on nissan pulsar, honda prelude and on my toyota corolla. by the way if you can get a remanufactured toyota axle shafts from the dealer much better. it cost less compared to brand new and much more durable compared to other aftermarket supplier, its your call. rey t
  13. g'day, the way you describe the situation, i am positive that the sway bar link is defective. anyway when you are in the process of changing them i would recommend you have to change the sway bar bush too. the process of changing is very straightforward, when you remove the links, you have to undo the sway bar bush clamp and slid the rubber bush towards the end of the sway bar where the link is located. the assembly is the opposite of disassembly. by the way its best to change them in pairs (left and right). rey t
  14. g'day, i was employed by rotawheels (rotawheels.com) before and was involved in the development of alloy wheels for toyota oem. of all the japanese carmaker, toyota is very meticulous w/ regards to quality. it must pass very rigid destructive testing (30 deg impact, 45 deg impact, cornering fatigue test, salt spray test and dimensional test). most of the time all the destructive testing parameters are set higher than the standard JASO parameters recommend. during the development all wheel samples are are been brought to japan for testing confirmation even though they have pass w/ flying colors during in house testing. during my tenure in that company never have i seen wheel separation/ disintegration. with regards w/ my corolla the only problem i experience is the roof pillar support plastic cover sometimes fall. if i see it it gonna fall all i gonna do is just snap it back to its position. its annoying but overall i am very satisfied and happy w/ my corolla. rey t
  15. g'day, check the brake fluid level, before proceeding to troubleshoot further. i got this experience w/ one of mates toyota rav-4 complaining to me that the parking brake light is coming on/off intermittently. i check the parking brake switch but it still doing the same problem when the car is running but when it is at a stop the light went off. i found the problem later that the level of the brake fluid is low that when the car is running it got this sloshing effect on the brake fluid level sensor triggering the problem. hope this will help. rey t