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tashirosgt

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About tashirosgt

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  1. If you have more trouble with the starter, I'd check two additional things. First check the solder connections in the starter and see if they are conducting well. Second check that the blobs of soldier don't have a chance of rubbing against the piston I had a starter where one of the soldier blobs would occasionally catch the piston and keeping from springing all the way back.
  2. Does it beep while you're driving the car? Could it be from some small electronic device that you left in the car?
  3. Unless the mechanic took apart the magnetic switch to inspect it, I'd suspect the starter itself is the problem. A bad starter can test good if it has an intermittent problem. Having to tap it sometimes certainly indicates the starter is bad.
  4. What's the purpose of the "converter bracket" (a term used by the Toyota service manual) on the catalytic converter of a 1990 Corolla with the 4AFE engine? It obviously joins the exhaust flange of the converter to the flange of the front exhaust pipe, but you could do that with two nuts and two bolts. The converter bracket has a 3rd hole in it as if something could be bolted on to it, but nothing is. It would make more sense to me if the bracket were mounted with the rim of it facing up toward the body of the car instead of down toward the ground. At least the rim would serve as a kind of back-up heat shield that way. Some photos that show the OEM catalytic converter and the converter bracket: https://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww164/tashirosgt/OEMCatampBracket2_zps924a6d8f.jpg https://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww164/tashirosgt/OEMCatampBracket_zpsb568b8a6.jpg https://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww164/tashirosgt/Bracket1_zps58666b54.jpg https://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww164/tashirosgt/Bracket2_zps45965b43.jpg
  5. I may get ambitious enough to remove the oil pan from a 4AFE engne that is in a friends '90 Corolla. I'll be able to see the inside of the engine while lying under the car. What problems can I detect from that position? The engine which has about 200,000 miles on it. We don't think it has a problem with rods, crankshaft or bearings. However, it would be nice to know how to make a routine check. I understand how to check if a rod is actually loose on the crankshaft, but how would I detect a less obvious problem like a "spun" bearing? Would I have to start removing bearing caps? The engine may have worn rings. I suppose there's no way to check that from underneath the pistons.
  6. Aren't there TSB's for rattling on cold starts for several Corolla models? I glanced at them before buying my 2011, but since they didn't apply to my vin number, I've forgotten the details.
  7. What is the recommended mileage interval for timing chain inspection or replacement on 10th generation Corollas (2009-2013) ?
  8. I found that the hinges are apparently welded to the body of the car, so the only way to remove the lid is to take it off the arms. I see many 1988-92 Corollas driving around with badly adjusted trunk lids and hoods. The only adjustment provided for the lid is at the bolts that hold the lid to the arms. That adjustment won't take care of all possible problems. How do body shops get a nice fit on truck lid? Do they bend the lid itself?
  9. I need to replace the trunk lid on a 1990 Corolla sedan with one from an '89 Corolla. Is it satisfactory to take the lids off the arms that hold them ? Or should I take the lids off by removing the torsion bars and the hinges that hold the arms?
  10. Are you saying you've replaced 2 or 3 alternators on the car from 1988 to 2012? That would be a normal amount. Or are you saying that you've replaced 3 alternators in a shorter period of time? If replacing the battery fixes the problem with the battery light, you should still replace the alternator if it isn't charging adequately. A bad alternator can ruin a new battery. It's worth checking your fuses to see that they are all the proper wattage. Sometimes people "fix" a problem with fuses by putting in a fuse with a bigger wattage instead of finding the problem in the circuit. Check that no wires are going bad on the 3-wire connector to the alternator. If you change alternators often, these wires tend to break near the connector. Alternators go bad faster if they are overworked. It would be interesting to see the current draw from the battery when the car is shut off. I think you can do this by putting a resistor of known size between the negative terminal of the battery and the end of the negative cable. Measure the voltage across the resistor. It should be about zero with the car shut off. If it's not zero then V = IR tells you the current draw. The belt tension on the alternator should be checked. Too tight or too loose are both bad.
  11. Looks like the forum is going to need some anti-spam measures!
  12. Are the engine blocks on the 4A-F and 4A-FE engines the same? (Edit: I guess the fact that the fuel pump for the 4A-F is mounted on the engine block makes the answer "no". I wonder if a machine shop could modify a 4A-FE block to mount the pump. I haven't closely inspected my 4A-F fuel pump situation yet.) (Edit: Upon a quick inspection, it looks like the fuel pump mounts to the head, so there's still hope for the blocks.) I want to rebuild the 4A-F engine on my '89 Corolla. To minimize the non-drivable days of the car, it would be nice to get a block ready before taking the old engine out. However, my inventory of engines (not in cars) consists of two used 4A-FE engines. I also have two blocks-with-pistons-installed that I bought on Ebay years ago. They were advertised as new blocks for the 4A-FE and they certainly look new. The block from the used 4A-FE engines that I cleand up has "4A" stamped on the corner. It has the longer number 8029384 stamped near it. It also a metal plate attached with another number on it. The Ebay purchased block I took out of its box has the '4A" stamped on it, but it doesn't have the other numbers. There is no metal plate attached to it. The Ebay blocks have standard ( "STD" ) pistons that look like the pistons on the used engines. This PDF guide to engine castings http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=aera%20cylinder%20head%20and%20block%20manual&source=web&cd=3&ved=0CDcQFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.guiaautomotrizcr.com%2Fimages%2FAeraid%2520head%2520and%2520block%2520manual.pdf&ei=1AmsUKnOGeSNygGsn4DgAw&usg=AFQjCNH0r_cJsTL-sjUVpQEqQn7HWLuasA&cad=rja lists the "Casting numbers" for the two types of Toyota engine blocks as "4AF" and "4AFE", but both my blocks are only marked "4A". (Edit: The block on the 4A-F engine in the car is also stamped "4A".)
  13. Thank you. Mine is JTDBU4EE7.... so it applies. Why I can't be this "lucky" with the lottery?
  14. I've read that the instantaneous MPG readout jumps to "99.9" when the car has the problem. I wonder if that adds phantom data to to what the car's computer reports.
  15. Anyone know if service bulletin TSB-0124-11 applies to all 2011 Corollas with automatic transmission - or does it only apply to those made before a certain date? ( I haven't seen a complete copy of this bulletin. Accounts on the web say that it concerns reprogamming the car's computer to fix problems that cause erratic variation in RPM whle driving at roughly constant speeds.) I just purchased a 2011 Corolla with 6K miles on it from the local Toyota Dealer. They consulted a Toyota data base and it says that the service bulletin TSB-0124-11 has not been applied to the car. The service department says service bulletins are not used unless the owner reports the problem. I'm curious whether this bulletin applies to all Corollas manufactured in 2011 or just to those made before a certain date.