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TCPMeta2k1

95 Corolla Dx

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My corolla is just for fun. I use it at the track and piss off some civic drivers. In the state I live in there is no emissions at all. So if I wanted too I can go open header but still get in trouble for breaking the sound orderance.

 

I painted the valve cover not the gasket. I didn't ment painting the ECU but I did mean to say on ways to modify the ECU to get a few extra horses. I'm going to check out that site everyone keeps posting. Latly I havn't been using my computer that much.

I figured you painted the cover - what is the point of painting the gasket?

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Well I have done some great addons and tweaks to the engine. I have found a 18% Reduction Crank Pulley for my motor and also installed a nice strut bar. Next week im going to see about a 4A-GZE engine to do a head swap for the 7A-FE block then see about getting a turbo or a super charger.

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those crank pulleys are crap. theyre not balanced and will underdrive your alternator, AC, PS pump, water pump, ect. none of that is good.

 

if you're gonna do the head swap to go FI then get rods and pistons as well. honestly, swap up to a 1zzfe and get the supercharger kit. you'll have obd2 and pass emissions for your year easily, and its all a bolt on.

Edited by Bitter

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Well I have done some great addons and tweaks to the engine. I have found a 18% Reduction Crank Pulley for my motor and also installed a nice strut bar. Next week im going to see about a 4A-GZE engine to do a head swap for the 7A-FE block then see about getting a turbo or a super charger.

I wouldn't even try and do a head swap with that engine - I'd just take the 4AGZE and drop that in your ride. Swapping the head off the 4AGZE will not gain you much, if anything, ECU will be confused. Plus you give up the good parts of the engine - supercharger, better rods, pistons, oil squirters, better bottom end, etc. If you decide to go forced induction - the lower compression of the 4AGZE will already be set to take the mods well - or just stick with the stock 4AGZE engine and beef up other parts of the car.

 

If you just want it to have some straight line speed - just use some nitrous. Run a 50 or 75 shot - used sparingly, will not be too terrible a load for the 7AFE engine. Less hit to your pocket that way as well.

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Yes, but that's to be expected with any major swap (engines outside of the immediate generation). Swapping the 4AGZE would make more sense (less modifications) - but generally they recommend swapping a newer engine to avoid emissions/safety inspection issues.

 

Some states/localities do not have any safety/emissions inspections - they would have more flexibility in a swap. Given the popularity of the 4AGE/4AGZE engine family - might be cheaper and easier to get the 1ZZFE swapped in.

 

There was a guy in Virginia that swapped a 4.6L V8 (Cadillac "Northstar" engine) into a 1st generation MR2 - talk about a tight fit. Guy didn;t have a whole of money to work with - but he had time and equipment - made it fit. Eventually failed due to a cracked block (sleeve cracked - overheated).

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Yes, but that's to be expected with any major swap (engines outside of the immediate generation). Swapping the 4AGZE would make more sense (less modifications) - but generally they recommend swapping a newer engine to avoid emissions/safety inspection issues.

 

Some states/localities do not have any safety/emissions inspections - they would have more flexibility in a swap. Given the popularity of the 4AGE/4AGZE engine family - might be cheaper and easier to get the 1ZZFE swapped in.

 

There was a guy in Virginia that swapped a 4.6L V8 (Cadillac "Northstar" engine) into a 1st generation MR2 - talk about a tight fit. Guy didn;t have a whole of money to work with - but he had time and equipment - made it fit. Eventually failed due to a cracked block (sleeve cracked - overheated).

I think the 4AGE/4AGZE would bolt right in, no modification required. Are you saying that those are difficult to obtain due to their popularity?

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I think the 4AGE/4AGZE would bolt right in, no modification required. Are you saying that those are difficult to obtain due to their popularity?

Bolting to the mounts, correct - no modifications to mounts - being an A series engine, but much of the plumbing / electrical stuff is different on the 4AGE/4AGZE.

 

They are also some of the most sought after engines - not impossible to get, just expensive - reason being is the flexibility in popping it in place of a 4AFE or 7AFE engine. Some have gone after the 3SGTE (another popular engine) as a possible swap option - more modifications needed, but will fit as well.

 

Not always the best swap from an emissions standpoint - as most of them come from overseas sources. The 4AFE and 7AFE should not be considered a poor engine, indeed - they do respond well to modifications (bolt ones, forced induction, etc.) and are starting to garner more support from tuning outfits.

 

i might be getting an ebay 7afe header, i'll let you know how it goes....or doesnt go.

That's pretty cool. If you get it - have any plans to coat it (thermal coating), wrap it, or just go plain?

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i might be getting an ebay 7afe header, i'll let you know how it goes....or doesnt go.

 

I have seen those as well on e-Bay and wondered if they would do any good for my car. How does the catalytic converter and emissions get affected? I don't want to put one on and then find out it has to be modified, or it makes the car fail emissions test.

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i might be getting an ebay 7afe header, i'll let you know how it goes....or doesnt go.

 

I have seen those as well on e-Bay and wondered if they would do any good for my car. How does the catalytic converter and emissions get affected? I don't want to put one on and then find out it has to be modified, or it makes the car fail emissions test.

Throwing on a header will not change the way the emission system works (unless it doesn't have teh O2 sensor bung) - but it may cause some inspectors to automatically fail the car due to a non-OEM part (visual inspection only) - note that some inspection stations don't care. Some header manufacturers have a CARB EO number for smog inspection purposes (basically says its legal for use on highways). If you have that sticker or stamping somewhere on or near the component in question - they cannot fail you on a visual inspection.

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i may throw wrap on them

 

no visual in IL, as long as i pass sniffer they dont care

 

its getting bolted to the stock exhaust, if i can get it apart. rust is a bitch. :P

 

i have a feeling i'll be cutting the old bolts off, unhanging the stock system, driving the studs out of the cat flange, and the using stainless steel bolts to hold the system together. i do have a 2 or 2.5" diameter by 3 foot long glass pack resonator that can be tossed into the mix inplace of the stock resonator. but i DO NOT want a loud exhaust, i want to retain the stock sound which is pretty much none.

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i might be getting an ebay 7afe header, i'll let you know how it goes....or doesnt go.

 

I have seen those as well on e-Bay and wondered if they would do any good for my car. How does the catalytic converter and emissions get affected? I don't want to put one on and then find out it has to be modified, or it makes the car fail emissions test.

Throwing on a header will not change the way the emission system works (unless it doesn't have teh O2 sensor bung) - but it may cause some inspectors to automatically fail the car due to a non-OEM part (visual inspection only) - note that some inspection stations don't care. Some header manufacturers have a CARB EO number for smog inspection purposes (basically says its legal for use on highways). If you have that sticker or stamping somewhere on or near the component in question - they cannot fail you on a visual inspection.

 

I would hate to put one on and then have the CA inspection fail because of it. Do they come with the O2 sensor installation joint?? I take it that it just replaces the exhaust manifold and not the entire system? It bolts to the engine and the Catalytic converter, correct? How does it improve over the stock exhaust manifold - better air flow, more MPG?

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let me find another one on ebay, but heres the basic way that it works...actually i'll let you find out how it works with a handy dandy little experiment.

 

 

got a peice of long pipe? (metal or pvc atleast an inch wide?) good, now blow down it with your lips very close to it. when you stop blowing you still feel air being drawn in dont you? a long tube header works in EXACTLY the same way, using the flow of the exhaust to pull more of the unburnt gasses out and during valve overlap (intake and exhaust valves open) pull in fresh air. also the runners being equal length helps all 4 cylinders to run at the same temperature. theres alot more to it than that but thats all i can think of off the top of my head. also you get some improvement because the tubes are a little larger than stock.

 

 

yes there is an O2 bung on them, i dont think i like where its at however. its monitoring ONLY the #1 cylinder, but theres alot of other header designs that endup doing this and they work out OK. i keep such a close watch on my engine already that i dont think it'll cause any problems. i know my #4 runs a little lean because its got a weak injector (the pintle isnt snapping open and closed as well as the other 3).

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Stainless-S...itemZ8053192586

 

thats the ebay header i won. i need to call the seller and ask something, he hasnt responded to my emails.

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let me find another one on ebay, but heres the basic way that it works...actually i'll let you find out how it works with a handy dandy little experiment.

 

 

got a peice of long pipe? (metal or pvc atleast an inch wide?) good, now blow down it with your lips very close to it. when you stop blowing you still feel air being drawn in dont you? a long tube header works in EXACTLY the same way, using the flow of the exhaust to pull more of the unburnt gasses out and during valve overlap (intake and exhaust valves open) pull in fresh air. also the runners being equal length helps all 4 cylinders to run at the same temperature. theres alot more to it than that but thats all i can think of off the top of my head. also you get some improvement because the tubes are a little larger than stock.

 

 

yes there is an O2 bung on them, i dont think i like where its at however. its monitoring ONLY the #1 cylinder, but theres alot of other header designs that endup doing this and they work out OK. i keep such a close watch on my engine already that i dont think it'll cause any problems. i know my #4 runs a little lean because its got a weak injector (the pintle isnt snapping open and closed as well as the other 3).

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Stainless-S...itemZ8053192586

 

thats the ebay header i won. i need to call the seller and ask something, he hasnt responded to my emails.

Good explanation. The pictures certainly do look good on e-Bay. Let me know how difficult it is to install and any gains that you get as a result of using it. I might be next to get one.

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