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fishexpo101

Adjusting Valves On 1zz-fe

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I went ahead and checked vlave clearances on my Corolla and took some pics for good measure (reference for hose locations, etc.)

 

Wanted to take a peeks and see if things were clean or dirty under there - any sludge, deposits, or varnish - and if the valves needed adjustment (somewhat noisy lately).

 

Photos:

 

http://photobucket.com/albums/v620/fishexp...djust%20Valves/

 

The pictures speak for themselves - there was some varnish and slight deposits - but nothing to be worried about. Looking at the valvetrain - everything was pretty clean with very little wear on the cam lobes and lifters. The engine has about 105K miles and is about 5K into the oil change (wanted to do it this late in the change - that way I will change oil soon to help remove any dirt or debris that may have fallen in).

 

Tips - makes sure to blow out the sparkplug holes before removing the plugs and around the outside of the valvecover to help reduce the possibility of dirt falling in. I used a OEM Toyota gasket - cost me $25 at the stealship. Could have used FelPro or others - but wouldn't have saved any more money - plus fitment could have been an issue. Can't go wrong with OEM gaskets.

 

I disconnected the wire loom, any brackets attached to the valvecover, removed coilpacks and plugs, and moved everything out of the way that could have prevented the valvecover from coming off.

 

Most of the bolts were 10mm on the valvecover, coilpack hold downs, and for the wire loom. Need a 19mm socket to put on the crank to turn the crank CW to get it to TDC on cylinder #1 (make sure to match up to 0 degree mark on crank pulley) - compression gauge will help, but you can also verify visually by looking down into the sparkplug holes or putting your finger over the #1 sparkplug hole. Once there - you can use tappet feeler gauges to measure clearances (between camshaft lobe and top of lifter) between the intake and exhaust valves on cylinder #1, intake on #3, and exhaust on #2 - then turn the crank over a full revolution to measure the others.

 

All said and done - the tolerances on the intake were supposed to be between 0.006-0.010 inches and the exhaust to be between 0.010 and 0.014 inches.

 

I found that all intake clearances were tighter than 0.007 and exhausts were all on 0.010 or less. Basically - nothing was wrong, valves were all on spec. - engine showed very little wear that was also verified with used oil analysis done yearly (UOA). Chaulk up another good engine to Toyota.

 

Motor oil used - Mobil 1 synthetic every 7500-8000 miles, OEM filters. Never "babied" the car - daily driver, but made sure all maintenance was on schedule. First 30K services done by dealer (free service promotion on schduled maintenance - I did every other oil change myself) - everything after that was done by myself.

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1) Did you attempt to clean your valve cover? If so, what did you use?

 

2) Does your engine use any oil? As some 1ZZFE seem to be plagued by high oil consumption caused by sticking rings. M1 might have prevented this though.

 

3) How did your UOA's look like? Did you post them anywhere?

 

4) Does your engine have the iridium plugs? Have you replaced them yet?

 

5) Mainly highway driving, long distance, cold winters and roadsalt where you live?

 

I too, prefer to do my own regular maintenance and you have just demonstrated that a car can just last as long and be in perfect condition even if you don't visit the dealer for scheduled maintenance on a regular basis.

 

Also, valve adjustments are much less required now than they once were. Unleaded gas and better oil seem to have helped a lot. Hondas used to require a valve inspection and adjustment every 48000 km (lock nut type). But now, we don't hear much about the necessity of this service. I vividly remember my first motorcycles in the late 70's...

 

Thanks for sharing your experience with us.

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Guest goldeneye

Thanks fishexpo101. Your posts are always informative.

 

Good to see that your engine is doing fine. Since I'm also using Mobil1 Super Syn and Toyota OEM filter, I feel more confident now that I see the positive results on your car. I recently drove 1000 miles and checked the oil level after the drive and found absolutely no oil consumption. I was initially concerned that my LE05 may exhibit excessive oil consumption after it was unnecessarily flushed by the dealer, but thankfully I haven't seen such symptons.

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1) Did you attempt to clean your valve cover? If so, what did you use?

 

2) Does your engine use any oil? As some 1ZZFE seem to be plagued by high oil consumption caused by sticking rings. M1 might have prevented this though.

 

3) How did your UOA's look like? Did you post them anywhere?

 

4) Does your engine have the iridium plugs? Have you replaced them yet?

 

5) Mainly highway driving, long distance, cold winters and roadsalt where you live?

 

I too, prefer to do my own regular maintenance and you have just demonstrated that a car can just last as long and be in perfect condition even if you don't visit the dealer for scheduled maintenance on a regular basis.

 

Also, valve adjustments are much less required now than they once were. Unleaded gas and better oil seem to have helped a lot. Hondas used to require a valve inspection and adjustment every 48000 km (lock nut type). But now, we don't hear much about the necessity of this service. I vividly remember my first motorcycles in the late 70's...

 

Thanks for sharing your experience with us.

1) I cleaned the valve cover with just plain carb cleaner - it does soften some of the deposits enough for me to remove them (the ones at the top of the valve cover). There are other products that work just as well - but I wanted to make sure that the solvent evaporated away - so carb cleaner was the ticket. Most of the golden color stayed there - so I just left it as is - the others just dissolved away.

 

2) Engine does not drink a drop of oil, even through the extended drain periods. I check the oil the morning before I fill up ~ once a week. But most of my driving (~80%) is highway - city driving happens mostly on the weekends.

 

3) My UOAs look very good - even the tech commented on how clean the oil was. I have a PDF somewhere. As soon as I find it - I will post it here.

 

4) Has Iridium plugs - replaced at ~90K.

 

5) Commute about 80-100 miles a day -mostly highway. Winter weather in the low teens (hardly below 0 F) - roads are generally salted and sanded.

 

Yes - I agree 100% that routine maintenance performed by the owner can be just as good or better, in some cases, than the dealership. Because I own the car - I'm more likely to take my time and check over small details that the dealership is not interested or paid to do.

 

This was just to check the condition of my engine on Mobil 1 and OEM filters and to see if valve adjustments were needed (indicated to be inspected in the service manual - usually audible checks are the norm). With all the problems that seem to plague of the 1ZZFE engiens - I just wanted to make sure that mine was not one of them. So far - I'm impressed.

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Guest Toyota-san

Excellent write up! Goes to show Mobil1 is the stuff of choice. Glad to see your motor is holding up well and providing you with good service.

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Guest goldeneye
With all the problems that seem to plague of the 1ZZFE engiens - I just wanted to make sure that mine was not one of them. So far - I'm impressed.

 

fishexpo101, since I'm new to 1ZZFE engines, what were (are) some major problems with these engines?

 

I have an LE05. Do the 2005 models also have the same problems?

 

Thanks!

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Like Ti-Jean mentioned - sticking piston rings, worn valve seals, emission related problems - led to an excessive amount of oil consumption. Most were with conventional oil - switching to synthetics seems to have eliminated some of those problems. Some had them worse than others - might have been something to do with the way the engines were broken in or a manufacturing fluke.

 

Most of the 9th generation Corollas (2003+) seem to have the oil issues fixed but have their own issues - like cold weather starter grind, ECM program issues, and a few others. Emissions related problems seems to about the same for both generations - but big difference between the average fuel economy for the 9th gen vs 8th gen (1998-2002). The 9th generation generating very impressive MPG numbers. May be do to different ECM programming or engine upgrades.

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One thing that bugs me is -- How the heck do you remove the black plastic cover over the engine? I have studied the nuts that hold it down very carefully, and there doesn't seem to be any non-destructive way of removing them. I have asked this Q before -- does anyone have an answer?

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One thing that bugs me is -- How the heck do you remove the black plastic cover over the engine? I have studied the nuts that hold it down very carefully, and there doesn't seem to be any non-destructive way of removing them. I have asked this Q before -- does anyone have an answer?

You're right, it's tricky do do but I managed to pull it off without breaking anything.

 

I think that there are 2 screws and the other 2, you just pull out.

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Ti-Jean is exactly right. Two are bolt heads (10mm) and the other two are plastic plugs. They have little detents on the head and can be grabbed with some needle-nosed pliers. Trick is to pull them off without breaking the clips.

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What kind of a motion sequence is required on the detent-like plugs? Describe the exact procedure in infinite detail. I have not been able to move them with pliers without exerting potentially destructive force. I don't want to break them.

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The least destructive way to remove them is to unscrew them, like any other bolt, while pulling up slightly. The plugs have plastic "flutes" along their length that hold them tighly in the hole. You could just pull them straight out - but may risk the chance of breaking them off. I just replaced mine with "real" bolts - after I borke both of them off last year.

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