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[Q] Swapping My Tired 2E ..ae112R



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dev0o0

i have ae112R with 2e engine and i'm about to make an engine swap

i live in egypt so my options are the

4a /7a (most available and reliable conversion here)

and the zz family 3zz(found in the local e120 which is common) and the 1zz which is not so common here

i am looking for extra power but within the limits of stock and reliability .no boosting or any thing and emissions ain't a problem here default_wink ..

is it really worth it to move to the zz family or should i stay with 4a/7a ...

and encase of the zz family does the 1zz use the same parts (in general & expected to be changed ) as 3zz(commonly found here )

P.s i don't known how to identify 1zz later model with oil leak fixed

Swapping from a 2E to the A-series engine has been well documented and known to be a good swap. Especially if the donor car was from the same market as yours (emissions issues, left/right hand drive configuration, availability of parts, etc.) From a performance standpoint - the 4A and 7A will be significantly more powerful than the 2E.

The 4A and 7A can be treated as identical swaps - as far as fabrication and wiring goes - only difference is their displacement (1.6L for the 4A, 1.8L for the 7A). A-series engines are also known for being exceptionally reliable - especially compared to the ZZ series. Keep in mind that the A-series had more than 20 years of constant development - the 4A series were produced continuously from 1980-2002, 22 years right there. They might not be as bulletproof as the S-series of Toyota engines, but they will come very close but gain in areas concerning fuel economy and efficiency.

Doesn't mean that the ZZ-series of engine are bad. The engines have a couple of nice features in comparison to the A-series:

- more power for similar displacement

- better fuel economy

- timing chain instead of timing belt

- some models have variable valve timing for increased power/efficiency

- returnless fuel systems (emissions reasons)

- no EGR required, self-EGR via valve timing

- considerably lighter in weight as they are all aluminum

- more compact design

But with such significant changes, some new issue were introduced. As you mentioned, some models had issues with heavy oil consumption, that could potentially lead to engine failure. The engine itself is an interference design - so in the unlikely event that the timing chain fails - the engine will destroy itself. The A-series with a belt failure - would just stop running. The ZZ-series is also noiser, due to their more advanced valvetrain design.

The 1ZZ/3ZZ/4ZZ are all very similar - in the same vein as the 4A/7A engines - just changes in displacement: 1ZZ = 1.8L, 3ZZ = 1.6L, 4ZZ = 1.4L The 2ZZ-GE is completely different - some parts are common, but for the most part, I would consider this a different engine all together.

Swap wise - these would be more complicated than the A-series, especially if you get a donor with variable valve timing. Still possible, but be a pretty advanced project compared to swapping in a A-series.

dev0o0

thnx fishexpo101 for your continued support ....

after ur post i think i will go with the 7a ... i was intrigued by the zz (being advanced with vvti and such ) but as my car is my daily driver i can't risk failures much ..

Bitter

The 7A-FE will be a HUGE leap in terms of power for you over the 2E without giving up much if any fuel economy. A Corolla with a 7A isn't a fast car by today's standards but it's no slouch either, I loved mine in traffic because there was a lot of torque at low RPM which made it really easy to get going fast from a standing stop.

dev0o0

I made the swap(7a-fe) a while ago and i am pretty satisfied with it thnx all for ur great support . Bytvi still have some questions

1-egr is not working (no environment restrection here ) is it a big deal to get it to work

2-only first part of exhaust was changed do i have to change the post cat parts ???

dev0o0

This pic was taken during swapping

[image dead]

Is this a jdm or usdm one ?? I cant tell

If your region doesn't have any emissions regulations - disabling a non-functional EGR would work - probably not worth the time/effort to try and make them work as intended. Not sure what you mean by "first" part the exhaust - which parts are you including in that "first" part - exhaust manifold, front pipe, catalytic converter, etc. As long as you can route the exhaust away from the passenger cabin and are happy with the resulting exhaust note - you should be OK.

dev0o0

I meant the exhaust manifold & headers.. default_smile

I was afraid that using 1.3l pipes wiuld affect 1.8l performance ..