Idle Quality - Low To High When During Cold Temperatures

No sealant was required. Intake manifold is torqued to 23 ft-lbs on my 2004.

Make sure you hooked up all hoses back on, including the elusive brake booster vacuum hose on the rear of intake manifold near throttle body... Are you now hearing the VSV operating now that it's hooked up?

No, I'm hearing it from the right-hand side of the valve cover.

I am going to take the entire thing off and use a pad to get any other remaining gasket material off. However, this gasket is metal. So, there really shouldn't be any real material there, right?

Brake booster hose? Going to the garage to check it out now.

Also, how do I get the cable throttle cable off from the throttle body? Just remove the bolt in the center of that wheel?

Right hand side when you're looking at it (driver's side) ? Is that where your PCV valve is?

Is the gasket not rubber coated metal? Did you not clean the sealing surface on manifold and engine head before installing new gasket?

The throttle cable end barrel can be slipped out sideways while rotating the throttle cam by hand to full throttle position to have cable slack.

Thanks for the reply, dom.

The PCV on mine is on the left-side (driver's side). But, if you're looking at the engine in front, that would be the right side.

I don't believe the gasket is rubber-coated metal. I did not clean the sealing surface. That's my mistake.

It will be best to take it off again and fully clean. I can take it all out with the throttle body still attached I assume. Just have to disconnect some wiring and hoses and you previously stated.

It should simply have been done properly the first time. I thought I had sufficiently stressed the importance of cleanliness upon reassembly... The metal gasket is black because it has a rubber coating. It's visibly not bare metal. At any rate, it may now possibly be compromised, and a new gasket would be advisable to replace it again successfully.

I think the gasket will be fine. I am taking it apart after work today. Will update and post photos.

What do you think I should do about all the sand, sludge, oil in the intake manifold and the area where it enters the engine? An acetone or mineral spirits soak?

I plan on using plastic grocery bags to stuff into the ports while I use a scouring pad to clean any miniscule gasket material off. Really, there is very miniscule residue.

Coolant temperature sensor -- which according to FedEx was supposed to arrive on 11/21 -- arrived today.

Does the sensor have a "D" underlined with a " ~ " ? (Made by Denso)

Don't know, already put it in. Acting crazy. Gauge barely moving, then moved to normal on way home. Erratic idle. Came home and disconnected the battery and will see if that will do anything.

Cleaned up the intake manifold. All set. Didn't take too long either.

16 degrees out.

So far, this Toyota ECT has acted the worst. . .

All hoses and connectors are hooked up? No CEL?

Yes.

I will be taking off in an hour, so we'll see what happens.

No CEL. . .

Re-connected battery. Idled to 2300 RPM upon starting. Still exhibiting same behavior (slow to move needle) and idles at 1500 RPM -- even after a 10-minute city drive. Temp is 15 degrees.

I'm stumped and getting quite grumpy.

So, where is it sucking all that extra air from? Brake power assist seems normal? Also, does pumping your brakes hard and repeatedly while stopped change idle behavior?

Dom, the brakes haven't changed at all. Power assist does seem normal.

Pumping my brakes hard and repeatedly while stopped? I am going to do that today. I will update.

I kept thinking tonight this is an electrical issue. But, if it is, wouldn't I experience other electrical problems?

As you know, I have gone through many ECT sensors. Each sensor has acted differently from the other. Common sense says it's not the sensor. It's obviously something else.

Update 11/19: Tonight, 18 degrees out. Nothing has changed. Still idling wildly, especially when re-starting after sitting for 45 minutes. Does the car have to recalibrate itself or something?

Found this link. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/132-9th-gen-corolla-1st-gen-matrix-2003-2008/618274-2004-corolla-surging-cold-idle.html

I know it's for 03-04, but after every thing I've done, should I take the car to the dealer for recalibration?

Until now, I've never heard of anyone taking their car in to be recalibrated.

Estimated cost?

http://www.toyotapart.com/IDLE_HUNTING_IN_SUB-FREEZING_AMBIENT_AIR_TEMPERATURES_T-EG022-07.pdf

And, as you know my Corolla is a manual transmission.

It does take some time under various driving and idling conditions for the ECU to relearn and stabilize itself every time you reset it by disconnecting battery or removing the EFI fuse.

The recalibration does not apply to your 2002. There is no new calibration for it.

Also, there is no change in idle when I pump the brakes while stopped.

OK. That was just to rule out a possible vacuum leak in your brake booster.

I know.

I won't be able to look at the car again until after work later today.

To me, it's an electrical issue. I just can't think of anything else.

I'm taking the Toyota sensor out after work and replacing it with the SMP sensor on hand

.

Leave the Toyota sensor in, and give the ECU a chance to settle.

ok

Won't be returning to this until Sunday. Out of town. . .