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High Milage Oil

By Bull6791, August 19, 2014



Fish & Dom

Have you ever used high milage oil before. At what point do you start using high milage oil. I know what the oil is used for. Would I really benefit from it.

Hear is my question: what if I never use it in the life of my car or at some point it would be beneficial to switch over to hight milage oil.

Frank.

At about 75,000 miles.

Yes.

Why is it a good idea to switch to high milage oil.

I know it has seal conditioners in it but besides that I do not know any thing else about it.

What if in the whole life of my car I never switched to high milage oil. Is that bad never at some point in the life of your car to switch to high milage oil.

Depends on the car and the situation. I've tried it out on the Corolla to see what the UOA numbers look like - but usually get whatever is on sale at the time. Doesn't hurt to use a high mileage oil, as their additive package is pretty stout and in engines that are known to have oil consumption issues or have seals that leak (seal conditioners) - they could potentially help. But it is not a requirement that you "have" to use a HM oil at a preset interval.

Also doesn't mean that they will extend the life of the car any - just as an example - my mega mileage Camry never seen any high mileage oil since we drove it off the lot new, only conventional motor oil.

Fish

My father in law does not drive many miles because he is retired. He just does local driving. He has a Camry like yours with the great engine. It is a 95 Camry with around 100,000 miles.

I am hoping my 05 corolla will last as long as your mega mile Camry. I am really taken care of it well. 400k will I see it I hope.

How many miles are on your Camry now.

How many oil drain holes are there supposed to be in an oil control ring. People have told me the 07 Camry burns oil because not enough drain holes in oil control ring. How many do they usually have. People have told me it also burns oil because the holes control ring has are too small. I do not know what size they should be that they are not.

Frank

That Camry has 408K or 413K, haven't seen it in a couple of months - another family member drives it now.

As for your model year Camry - I think it has 8 holes per piston. Some owners have reportedly added two more holes on each side to bring the total number to 12 holes per piston. Drilling or modifying pistons is not for the faint of heart - sure, you can cause oil to drain faster, but also can cause excessive oiling, increasing the work-load on the oil scrapper ring. Has to be a balance between sufficient lubrication application and efficient oil removal. Most of the issues are due to oil deposits "clogging" the oil return holes. Enlarging the holes or adding more will decrease the likelyhood of oil deposits completely clogging the holes. So this is definitely a band-aid fix, not a true solution. Not only that, if done incorrectly, you could severely damage the engine.

Can't really fault Toyota on this one - design is similar to a number of other manufacturers as well. Remember Saturns back in the day? Porsche, Audi, VW, Chrystler, Subaru, Mitsubishi, etc. lot of makes have similar issues. Higher engine temps (for emissions and MPG), aggressive EGR (for emissions and MPG), longer maintenance schedules, timing chains, extreme temperature variations, relatively small sumps, different material science, advanced lubrication tricks, etc. all put a heavy load on the motor oil.

Have to change the oil and monitor what the engine does. Can't always rely on the oil change monitor on the car or what the dealership/garage/quick lube recommends. Unfortunately, once the oil consumption problem becomes noticeable, usually too late to stop it with changes in type or motor oil or OCI. Once you build up that thick, crusty carbon on the piston holes, only a rebuild will get that out. People that drilled larger holes or added more holes, can go longer before they notice oil consumption, but the oil consumption will eventually come back as the original problem (overworked motor oil) has not been addressed.

No easy answer on solving that either. Could be as simple as changing the oil change interval or switching to a different brand/type of oil. Could be as involved as increasing overall oil capacity, improved oil scavenging, auxillary oil cooling or modifications to the oil jets on the crankshaft - basically redesigning the car. All depends on who drives the car, how it is driven, what sort of environment it is used in, and what sort of maintenance it sees.

Fish

I was just curious the Camry 07-09 was the problem/ oil consumption engine. What did they do after 09 to stop oil consumption and make engine better.

Actually, the oil consumption issue first noticed when the 2AZ-FE was first introduced around 2001, for the Camrys, it was basically from 2003-2008. Since then, the engine has gone through several updates - different camshaft, higher compression ratio, shorter coated pistons, lighter tension rings, revised piston oil squirters, etc. Not only did the earlier ones have oil consumption, some also had a tendancy to overheat and strip head bolts. That seemed to have gone away after the 2006 model year.

In 2009 - they went with the AR series of engine, the 2.5L 2AR-FE engine replacement for models with the older AZ series, 2.4L 2AZ-FE engine. Newer engine has dual VVT-i capability (both on the intake and exhaust side, instead of just the intake side on the 2AZ-FE), 5.6% increase in displacement, high compression ratio, and a return to a variable induction system. All adds up to more HP, torque, and better fuel economy. Interestingly, it retain the same piston oil cooling jets and piston and low tension piston ring design of the outgoing 2AZ-FE.

I have both engines - the 2.4L 2AZ-FE in the Matrix and the 2.5L 2AR-FE in the Rav4. The Matrix had some oil consumption issue - but I've been staying on top of right from the start (I already knew what I was getting into). The Rav4 for consumed some oil during its early stays with us - but has been pretty stable since. Though both were certified used Toyotas - both have been pretty poorly maintained, IMO - pulled the valvecover off and saw some crusty oil deposits. Couple of short oil change intervals with good filtration and motor oil and some hard driving "fixed" that for me.

Thanks for the info. Do you think I can get 400k out of my 05 corolla with the 1azz-fe engine like you have gotten out of your Camry.

It's just your opinion fish.

Honestly - with the 1ZZ-FE, VVT-i, and timing chain - I'd be pretty darn happy to get 250K-300K miles. The 1ZZ-FE, even the later ones (ie, the ones with all the rolling fixes), have shown a pretty strong sensitivity to electrical noise and type of motor oil used. Oil fed VVT-i actuator and timing chain, coupled with a pretty high operating temperature really beats up the oil. Even under ideal maintenance and operational conditions - anything past 200K miles and you should be pretty happy about that.

A number of people have gotten that far, but the likelyhood of hitting 400K-500K miles or more is very likely impossible now. Not because the powertrain won't hold up - more likely that the car will get totaled from an accident, the body falling apart, or major accessory part bring the car down (hard to find parts). The OEM exhaust on my old Camry is all stainless steel, still running the original system - same cat, same mid pipe - new muffler (knocked the old one off in an accident, but it was still good) - the newer ones only have some stainless parts, the rest are coated. I've replaced the one on the Corolla once already and the newer one is started to eat through pretty quickly.

My older Camry, having been driven exclusively in the salt-belt actually has less rust than my current Corolla now. I've actually got rust perforation in some body panels around around the wheel wells. The Camry's paint and body panels actually "heals" itself and prevents rust from forming immediately after the paint gets chipped from a stone or other road debris. On the Corolla, Matrix, and Rav4 - I've actually got bubbles pushing through the paint and clearcoat in places is completely eroded through, with or without the help of stone chips and the like. Likely a combination of low VOC water-based paints and lackluster QC process.

IMO, the newer lot of Toyotas just don't hold a candle to the previous generations of Toyota. Maybe the next 20 years, Toyota will start embracing what made them so popular to begin with, making solid, reliably little cars. Doesn't mean the current crop of cars are all crap - from a safety and cosmetic/engineering design standpoint - Toyotas now are lightyears ahead of the older ones. Just wished that the bean cutters didn't choose content over quality, even though lots of that content are now federally mandated (think TMPS, active restraint systems, inside trunk handle, ESC, soon to be rear-view monitoring, etc.)

Fish

Thanks for being honest. The Camry you have that has the S engine in it. What generation is that engine. It is a 1995 that Camry. I agree with you I wish Toyota was still making the cars for reliability like in the past. I guess even with the new Toyota cars not lasting as long as some of the older ones they are probably better made than other

manufacturers cars.

1996 Camry, 2.2L 5S-FE (chassis XV10) - last of the 3rd gen Camrys. The S-series engines were available from 1.8L to 2.2L displacements and was around since 1980 all the way to 2007. The most famous out of the bunch were the 2.0L 3S-GE and 3S-GTE engines - many still used in motorsports racing. Your engine, the 2.4L 2AZ-FE was the S-series replacement, much like the 1.8L 1ZZ-FE being the A-series (4A-FE / 7A-FE) replacement.

This particular 5S-FE is a 3rd gen design - around this timeframe, some Toyota Solaras (gen 1), Toyota Celica (gen 5 and 6) and Toyota MR2 (gen 2) were also fitted with 5S-FE engines. Not a huge powerhouse - as my 1ZZ-FE made about the same amount of power but weights almost half the larger 5S engine. The s-series were a cast iron block, aluminum head design - like the A-series engines. Well known bullet-proof bottom ends, valvetrain will be OK as long as you keep an eye on the oil.

Exactly right - even if they don't have staying power of some of their older counterparts, hard to argue a more reliable car for the money. More fun to drive, more performance, more standard content - sure, lots of other choices out there. But for one that just needs reliable transportation and stays ontop of the maintenance - hard to beat a Toyota. Only time will tell if this holds true - the competition is closing in very quickly, even some of the domestic offerings and previous "cheap" cars are showing great potential.

Fish

Good explanation.

I do not like the sound of that the competition is closing in very quickly. Also I do not like domestic cars and previous cheap cars showing potential.

You are a car guy I only got into doing my own maintenance in the last 5 years. By the sounds of these statements if Toyota does not step up their game and make more reliable cars I am afraid we might have to get into another make of car.

I really like Toyota too. I hope they step up their game.

If I had to go with another car manufacturer like Honda etc. I would not know what to pick.

I still have a lot of life left in my 05 corolla. It just hit 92,500 mile. When I get a new vehicle I what to get either another corolla or a Rav4. I just do not know how good the Rav4 is on gas milage.

The Rav4 is OK on mileage, but its no Corolla/Camry. It is still a decent sized vehicle, or CUV as the market sees it. I see about 26-29 MPG, depending on how it is driven. Even in almost all city driving, I haven't see it fall below 22-23MPG.

Yeah, Toyota really have to step up their game or they will be passed by. This is what happened to the domestics several decades ago, they didn't perceive these smaller import cars as being a threat. Rightfully so, as the early Toyota, Honda, and Datsuns (Nissan) were pretty terrible cars. But once gas prices skyrocketed - the big three couldn't react fast enough to shift their focus. By the time they got there, the imports have refined their cars to the point of being significantly better than the domestics.

Actually, it was the domestics themselves that brought about their downfall. Remember the first Hyundai and Kia cars in the 80's and 90's - considered pretty low brow, unreliable transportation - now considered even or even better than Toyota / Honda. Not many people realize that they have partnered with domestics to help them build smaller, more fuel efficient cars. Remember the old Pontiac LeMans compact - that was Daewoo, or more correctly, a Hyundai/GM partnership. Remember the Ford Fiesta compact - that was a Kia/Ford partnership.

Seeing that right now with Toyota - partnerships with many manufacturers. Hybrid technology partnerships with Ford and BMW - both now developing their own and arguably more sophisticated hybrids systems. Toyota just got too bloated to quickly react to the changing marketplace and with a corporate policy of risk aversion (both in styling, performance, and new markets) - they have really fallen behind. Myself, unless I see big changes from Toyota - these 2009 models I currently drive will likely be the last Toyotas I'll own. Not crazy about the new 4th gen Rav4 - more station wagon than mini-trucklet. They killed off the Matrix, new Corolla - well, that seems about the same atleast. Trying to keep their #1 spot - they are pushing profits and sales, not innovating or rallying their fan base.

Don't get me wrong - I still love my older domestics, even with all their faults. Just something that can't be explained away with logic. Just take a quick cruise in a Chevelle or big block Mopar - to see for yourself. Myself, I'm considered a latecomer to the Toyota crowd. Used to be all Chevy and Dodge (hated Ford - dealership attitude is what did it for me), then moved on to European imports (BMW, VW, Porsche, Opel, Jag, Triumph - still have an old BMW 2002 and Porsche 914, atleast the body looks OK) then to Honda. All have their place in my mind - but hard to argue about a car that is dead nuts reliable - always gets you from point A to point B without fail. This is where Toyota came to be for me - but that was almost 30 years ago (first Toyota we bought was a 1985 Celica Supra) - might be time to move on.

Fish

If it is time to move on from Toyota and if they do not step up their game what other car would you get. Who makes good cars right now. Honda, Nissan ect.

Probably should start another thread - partly my fault, we are getting way off topic. I'll start a poll and put it in the general section - better place than here.

Fish

Thanks for setting up poll. In you opinion if you were buying a new car now beside toyota what kind do you like Honda etc.

Hey Frank. Iv'e been using full synthetic on my 2005 corolla since it was new.

It has just reached 220,231 miles.

I mostly use 5w30 sometimes 0w30 and once I even used 5w20 trying to get better MPG. but it started getting sludge after only about 9,000 miles.

I used to drive 140 miles round trip commute until about 2011. Alot of hard highway miles, high speeds of 80, 90 , and 110 . even some unknown speed at the end of

the speedometer a few times. thats when the engine shuts down. .... One of my speeding tickets was for 98 in a 65 zone. Very expensive.

Other than the sludge from leaving that oil in way too long, there have been no engine problems. The 4.4 Quarts I put in stays right on the top mark of my wife's 2007 dip stick even at 10,000 mile OCI. Just new plugs at about 120000 new fuel pump 135000 and new intake gasket.

I hope we both get our 2005s to 400000 miles . She dosen't know I'm using her dipstick Frank.

Snow Tire

I have a 2005 corolla I have 92,000 miles on it. From day one I have only used 5w-30 conventional oil. I drive 12,000 miles a year and change my oil every 3,000 miles.

Should I change my spark plugs at 100,000 to be pro active or will they make it to 120,000 miles. I do not want to get stuck on the road because of a bad plug.

Also why did you replace fuel pump and intake gasket at 135,000.

What is the intake gasket and where is it located.

Why are you using your wife's dipstick.

Please get back to me.

Frank

Hi Frank.

I'm using my wife's dipstick because I'm too lazy to make a new mark on mine.

I have the original 3.9 quart stick. Hers is an 07 with the updated dipstick. Both 1.8 liter engines could have always had 4.4 quarts. When I change my oil I start pouring the first bottle of oil into the filter when the filter is full I install it and replace the drain plug. Then I pour the first bottle into the engine until exactly half or slightly less than half is gone. Now I save that half quart for next time and I add four quarts to the crank case.

My 2005 corolla was manufactured in October of 04 with a different fuel pump than earlier 05s. Some only last 50000 miles. THAT left me stranded on the highway. $80 tow 95 dollar fuel pump assembly from an O8. Spark plugs will start to go bad slowly not suddenly.

The intake manifold gasket is not too hard to change. I had rough uneven cold idle, terrible gas mileage. And high short term fuel trim.

Snow Tire

You use synthetic oil. Your OCI is 10,000 miles.

I would think with an OCI like that you would want to do used oil analysis. I would want to do it on an OCI of 10,000 if nothing else but to check acidity in oil.

I have never use synthetic oil in my life. I want to switch with a 5000-6000 mile oil change interval. It has been recommended to me that I do UOA. The longer the oil sits in the sump between oil changes the more acidic it is and that is bad for the engine.

So that is the only reason I never switch to synthetic oil because of longer OCI and acidity in oil from sitting longer.

You are right. I just never took the time to do analysis.

During the first 100000 miles I did change the oil every 5000 miles until my extended warranty was up.

The oil I used had a 35000 mile warranty at the time. So at $10 a quart it was probably a waste of money. They changed it to 25000 or 1 year because nobody would try going 35000 miles.

If you use remote filters combined with oil analysis, you could possibly exceed 35000. With one large full flow filter and one bypass filter. I bought a remote system but never installed it.

I changed the factory oil at 800 miles and ran Quaker State conventional for 3000. Then Amsoil . I don't always go 10000. That's just my maximum . The oil gets pretty dark on the dipstick at 5000+.

You should do just fine with what you're already doing. I use good oil but that little filter just won't keep my oil clean over 5000 miles. They only guarantee the corolla oil filters for 15000 miles but the oil 'looks' dirty after 5000.

It's a little better now that the dirty air doesn't leak in anymore . I also had oil inside of the intake manifold. I should not have waited over 200 thousand miles to change the PCV valve.

You could buy the 7500 mile synthetic and change it every 6000 miles. That would cost less than the 25000 mile oil.



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