Oil Fiter Wrench Size

Easiest way is to grab that filter at the parts store and try their oil filter wrenches on them until you find one that fits snuggly. There is a lot of variability with those universal cup filters - not a whole lot you can do about it. I find that some filters, even the same size and fitment, don't always fit my filter wrench. Most of the "cup" style filter wrenches have two sizes / two sets of flutes - that will work on filters that are not spun on too tight. Sometimes, if the filter doesn't budge - it could slip on those wrenches or even break the tack welds on the end of the cup. That point - have to use a cam style wrench, which will crush the filter slightly, or go old school - punch a screwdriver through the filter and turn it that way.

Could try buying the SST filter wrench made specifically for that V6 filter - won't be cheap, but may fit the filter body better. Again, depending on the brand of filters, even from batch to batch - the dimensions can vary slightly.

I agree - filter should be tightened enough to be able to unloosened by hand later - but not everyone's fingers can get a grip on the filter body, dealerships and quick change places just blast those filters on the car. The factory filter was on so tight - I had to crush the filter to remove it. On this Corolla, there is about a 1/2" clearance between the sump pan and the filter body with the OEM filter. Go to a larger diameter one for extended oil drains - be a pretty tight fit. Have no choice but to use some filter wrench.

Toyota OEM "tall" - 90915-YZZF1 or Denso equivalent, are my first choices. If I ran out of stock - I'll pop in a Purolator Classic L14477 or Purolator PurONE PL14477. I use a Assenmacher Specialty Tools TOY 640 Oil Filter Socket - as I have a cartridge filter on the RAV4 that needs this. This will also fit the standard filters - but can be a bit on the snug side.

If you want to use the larger Camry filter - then do so - assuming the mounting surface can support a wider filter. For my needs - the tall filter works well with my extended drains. That may not be the case with your car - that's why UOA are such important tools. Not only do you have to look at over wear metals and how much reserve alkalinity you have left, but you also have to keep fuel dilution and insolubles in check.

If you stick with a standard 5K mile OCI - then sure, my setup should offer more than adequate protection on synthetic motor oil - probably OK with the current API conventional motor oil as well, but that depends on your car. When you start pushing past this point - then it becomes highly dependent on the engine's overall condition, driving conditions, driving habits, etc. Some cars cannot do extended oil changes, or if you want to run an extended oil change - may have to do multiple filter changes or run an oil bypass filtration system. I wish I could say that you just put the best filter on there, fill up with synthetic and run a 10K mile oil change interval - but that is just a recipe for disaster. If it was that easy - all the car manufacturers would jump on that, put a reduced TCO and save the planet spin on it.

The 90915-YZZF1 is OEM for the V6 Camry? Weird, on the 4-cylinder I can see - but I thought the V6 would be using the "D1" vs the "F1" filter. 90915-YZZD1 crosses with to the Purolator L10241 filter. The "tall" filter I an referring to has the exact same base as the OEM filter (90915-YZZF2) but is about a 1/2" taller. The Toyota V6 filter is both taller and wider than the OEM 4-cylinder oil filter. Width is punched out about a 1/4" of an inch - which may be too wide from some applications. Depends on the filter mounting pad.

Anyways - on the OEM or Denso oil filters, they work great. Purolators have gotten cheaper over the years, but still better QC than FRAM in my opinion. NAPA Gold and WIX are also top of my list for quality filters - just not as easy for my to pickup locally. I wait until I can get the OEM ones for less than $5 each - had a pretty good score a couple of years ago on some Denso OEM filters @ $3.50 each, bought a couple of cases then. They make an Japan made one that is superior - 90915-10001? - but is hard to find and can be expensive. I've seen some listed at $12-$24 each - way too much for my blood.

The 90915-YZZF1 filter is specifically for the 2ZZ-GE engines in the 7th gen Celica, 1st gen Matrix XRS/Vibe GT, and 2005-2006 Corolla XRS. That said - its specifications are identical to the smaller 90915-YZZF2 filter that is OEM on my 2002 Corolla and your 2005 Corolla, as well as many 4-cylinder Toyota cars. Aside from the increase in overall filter height, bypass opening PSI, base O.D., spin on threads are all the same. You just get a little taller media - clearance is generally a non-issue unless you run this taller filler with a sandwich plate adapter on a heavily lowered car - then I'd start to worry at that point..

If you don't want to take a risk - then stick with the 90915-YZZF2 filter and standard oil change interval (both convention or synthetic motor oil). I personally would not recommend running this filter on an extended oil change program, unless you carefully monitored the oil with UOAs and were willing to do a filter change part way through the extended oil change interval.

Up to you - depends on how big your hands are, if the car is too hot to work on (exhaust is close by).

On mine, I use a wrench, but grab the socket handle close to the head, so I'm not able to put a lot of torque on there. Make sure to put a little oil on the o-ring, if it doesn't already come prelubed - thread it on by hand until it just touches the mounting plate - then, depending on the filter, give it a little more of a turn. On the Purolators and Denso ones - it is marked right on the filter box to give it another 3/4 turn after it makes contact with the base.

Torque the oil plug on the pan, use a new gasket when possible/if needed. Fill with oil, start it up, check for leaks.

Yup, those gaskets should work just great. Fits lots of Toyota products.

As for torque, those treads are pretty thin on the pan - 18 ft.lbs is what called in the manual. Unless you've done these enough times - hard to judge how much torque you can put on the bolt with just your touch.

If you don't already have a torque wrench - might be a good time to invest in one, especially if you want to start doing more DIY work. Don't have to go to the megabuck Snap-On or other pro sets. A Sears Craftsman clicker type torque wrench is plenty good enough for most owners for under $70. If you don't see yourself doing any major suspension or driveline work - their micro-clicker for $40 works just as well, just tops out at 75ft.lbs max torque.

If you want to pass on the torque wrench, then try to tighten the drain plug with the smallest wrench you have that will fit and/or just grab the socket wrench by the head - try and minimize how much leverage you can put on that plug. You'll be checking for leaks later, so if it weeps any oil from that plug - just give it another 1/8 to 1/4 turn, then check again. That gasket is what is sealing the drain plug - just want enough to distort/crush the gasket - just a fraction, so that it can seal.

That sounds about right - oil pan should be a 14mm, but there might be a small chance it could be a 12mm - more than likely a 14mm given the size of the threads. Transaxle is either a 14mm bolt or 10mm hex key (seen them both ways on a 9th gen Corolla). Don't think you'll need a deep well socket - a regular socket would fit just fine, unless they are using the deep well in lieu of a short extension.