By
Bull6791, November 8, 2013
Fish
Am I reading it right the 07 Camry le 4 cylinder takes the same pcv valve as my 05 toyota corolla le. I need to know what pcv valve the 07 Camry takes.
Also for spark plugs how many times can you pull them out to check them with out messing up gasket. Is it unlimited.
Thanks Frank
PCV valve # 12204-28030 is listed for 2007 Camry LE with 2AZ-FE 2.4 engine.
http://www.toyomotorparts.com/components/toyota-2007-camry_ventilation-hose-12-01-11017.html
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1433263,parttype,5052
2005 Corolla LE uses either # 12204-22041 or # 12204-22051:
http://www.toyomotorparts.com/components/toyota-2005-corolla_ventilation-hose-12-01-10401.html
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1433059,parttype,5052
# 12204-22041 with green Loctite has M16 (16mm diameter) x 1.5mm threads. It takes a 22mm or 7/8" (22.225mm) wrench or deep socket.
# 12204-22051 with pink Loctite has 3/8" BSP threads (16.6624mm diameter), 19 TPI (1.337mm threads). It takes a 3/4" (19.05mm) or 19mm wrench or deep socket.
There's a limit to everything. Just use your judgement. Research and learn from experience.
Spark plug gasket is already compressed when reinstalling... 14mm spark plug tightening info:
http://www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp/english/techinfo/qa/q18/index.html
You should be more concerned with the aluminum threads in engine's head. Spark plugs have a lubricaring plating. No anti-seize compound should be used to avoid over-tightening, but the plating gradually wears off when removing and reinstalling plugs.
fishexpo101 already gave you a more than adequate reply:
As long as you don't over tighten them - there should be no issue removing and reinstalling plugs. But true - the longer service life was designed with less interaction with the plugs - you don't "have" to remove them to check on the plugs.
Most that do their own work - generally will pull the plugs at least once - just to see what the wear levels looks like and to help reduce the possibility of having plugs seized into the head, from being untouched for so long. That likelyhood is very remote though - material science has changed a bit - pretty tough to get plugs frozen into the head with corrosion or metal galling. Most that run into a problem with removing the plugs, usually is related to excessive deposits that form on the plug end. That can cause the plug to become very difficult to remove. Pulling the plugs sooner, can help reduce the amount of deposits that you'll have to turn through. If the deposits at that time are so bad, that they cause the plug to be hard to remove - that might be a good time to just replace the plugs (plugs still have lots of electrode life, but are now heavily fouled). Some may attempt to clean the plugs - but generally not recommended anymore. Example - wirebrush may remove the caked on deposits - but you'll inadvertently transfer some of the wire material to the plug. In some cases, this can cause misfires and/or provide additional sites for deposits to cling onto. Media blasters are better, but you have to make sure none of the media is left, or could damage the engine. Easiest way to approach this case - just replace the plugs. Keep and label (plug cylinder position) the old ones for a backup set and for future diagnostics.
