Replacing The Front Struts - Quick Mount - Corolland: the Toyota Corolla Forums

I'm planning on changing both the front struts by using the "quick mount fully assembled" struts for a 2000 Toyota Corolla. I followed the strut change video on youtube and it looks simple.

Can you verify this procedure?

1) Take off tire

2) Remove the bolt that holds the brake line

3) Remove the two bolts that hold the strut to the "wheel hub"

4) Remove the 3 top bolts under the hood

5) Pull out the old strut mount and put the new strut mount and put in the 3 top bolts

6) Attach the strut to the "wheel hub" and put the two bolts on

7) Attach the brake line to the strut and put the bolt

That's all that's required right? I also saw some mechanics put a marker where the strut was attached to the "wheel hub"....why is that? Surely that can't be for alignment right because it's in the same position when you put the new strut??

Since I have no mechanic experience, can you tell me all the tools I need for:

1) Remove the lug nuts

2) Remove the 2 bolts from strut

3) Remove the brake line bolt

4) Remove the top bolts for strut under the hood

I don't know what type of wrenches are required for each of the above. For the bolts, should I torque them to 89-94 lbs?

Upper strut mount is already part of the Quick Mount strut assemblies.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1432903,parttype,15174

You could get good struts on their own for less, and reuse your good original coil springs by replacing them with a set of spring compressors. You can reuse the strut mounts after cleaning and repacking the bearing with grease, and replace the bellows.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1432903,parttype,7584

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1432903,parttype,7592

http://www.harborfreight.com/macpherson-strut-spring-compressor-set-3980.html

Yes, there is considerable camber adjustment when tightening the two strut to steering knuckle bolts, which in turn also affects toe setting... If you don't raise and support steering knuckle upon assembly, you end up with a lack of negative camber and excess toe-in. I use a carpenter's level to set negative camber, then an old Snap-On toe tool to adjust toe alignment via outer tie-rod ends.

This should help: 26-10 front shock absorber w/ coil spring overhaul

In this video (at 29 sec):

The strut just attaches to the steering knuckle using 2 bolts.....are you saying that the "angle" it attaches changes the camber? Or do you mean not support the steering knuckle while assembling it to the strut changes the camber?

Yes to both questions... I achieve proper camber angle by supporting it carefully under brake rotor. Make sure your rotor's stone guard is clear of the rotor and not bent on it upon reassembly.

i've done all the struts on my 98..but used spring compressor to reuse the springs ( and cheaper-did all 4 struts for $150 ).

You will have to also unbolt the outer tie rod from the knuckle. Dont use a pickle fork or any such nonsense, as you'll tear the tie rod boot. Use a tie rod remover tool. ($10)

The most difficut part is getting the axle and spindle (knuckle) back up onto the bottom of the strut and putting the 2 studs back through the strut holes ( at least with hand tools ).

BE SURE TO USE JACK STANDS ON BOTH SIDES AND USE PARKING BRAKE AND BLOCK REAR WHEELS.

You'll need to use the jack later to raise each axle onto the new strut, as you wont be able to do it by hand.

I don't need to remove outer tie-rod end from steering knuckle to replace struts... When I do remove outer tie-rod from steering knuckle, I back off the tie-rod end nut, and carefully hammer it out.