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Conventional Oil

By Bull6791, August 30, 2013



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Does anybody know a real good conventional oil I can use for my car. I use 5w-30 conventional. I heard Mobil 1 is real good.

Also does Redline have conventional oil. Any insite would be great

Frank

Year and mileage? You may consider using high mileage oil.

Redline doen't have non-synthetic oils.

Dom

I have an 05 corolla with 82,000 miles on it if you think high Milage oil is worth a try I might try it. The owners manual call for 5w-30 conventional. What are good brands of this oil

Frank

I use Valvoline 5W-30, used Valvoline in all previous cars, including my old '96 Celica. Never had a problem, but after 150,000 miles, I started buying the Valvoline High Mileage 5W-30.

The Celica was still going at 310,000 miles. Still miss that car. Just a 2.2 liter, but had some get up 'n go.

I've never used synthetic.

AUTOTECH,

I am going to start doing my own oil changes. My 05 corolla calls for 5w-30 conventional. Most people where I work use Mobil 1 but I do not know if it is any good. The oil you use sound good. I might try it. I want my car to last as long as your

Thanks

Frank

DOM,

For the high mileage oil you are talking about what is considered high mileage. I have 82,000 on my corolla. I do not think that is high mileage. What do they consider high mileage because I never used high mileage oil before.

Yes, almost forgot about Castrol, as I used that many times in my Celica.

Many people have told me to avoid Pennzoil engine oils, but why?

Something I heard from a mechanic: When you use a certain brand engine oil, stick with it. Don't switch to any other brand. Thoughts?

High mileage oils are recommended for engines with over 75,000 miles to help reduce further wear. It also has seal conditioners to reduce oil burning from leaking valve seals. Pennzoil also has an excellent high mileage oil, with very good specs and the coldest pour point.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Pennzoil-High-Mileage-Vehicle-5W30-Motor-Oil-5-Quart/14962316

Specs: http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCwQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.epc.shell.com%2FDocs%2FGPCDOC_X_cbe_24855_key_140007054930_201202271141.pdf&ei=x4MiUtaKO8mb2QW9woCwDA&usg=AFQjCNF0XMc8hHVscGpzsDbg9TGAlLrudQ&sig2=_wPNOkm_4WqDehikcgfzyg&bvm=bv.51495398,d.b2I

Pennzoil Ultra synthetic oil is one of the very best available, as used in Penske Racing IndyCars, and recommended by Ferrari.

http://www.pennzoil.com/motor-oil/pennzoil-ultra-synthetic-oil/

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=32279

I'm still using Pennzoil Platinum synthetic 5W-30, now at 162,000 miles on my 2004. I used high mileage oil on the 3rd and 4th previous oil change, and oil consumption is still cut in half now (~0.4 quart/5000 miles).

I ran it with Amsoil for a long time... No concerns about switching with good thorough drains upon refill.

Many people have told me to avoid Pennzoil engine oils, but why?

Something I heard from a mechanic: When you use a certain brand engine oil, stick with it. Don't switch to any other brand. Thoughts?

Perfect!

Going out on a limb here (since some forums get too controversial on this topic): What's your preferred oil filter brand? Anyone...

Also, I see O'Reilly is offering a 5-quart jug of Havoline oil and a MicroGuard filter for 15.99 until 10/15. . .

Here is my shopping list. Note that this doesn't mean that other brands are inferior - these are the ones that I can get my hands on the easiest and usually best cost from the retailers closest to me.

Filters (in order of preference): Toyota OEM, Denso (OEM replacement), WIX/NAPA Gold, K&N, Purolator Pure One, regular Purolator. Usually buy OEM or Denso filters in a block of 10 filters each time. WIX/NAPA if they are on sale, K&N I usually get free with a oil promo. Purolator are my old stand-by - I try not to drop down to anything lower than these.

Oils (in order of preference): Mobil 1, Valvoline Synpower, Castrol Syntec (German Castrol), Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Syntec. Usually stock up on Mobil 1 and Valvoline Synpower first - they hold up well for my engines for my OCI and give me good fuel economy. If I pick them up at Walmart - usually get them anywhere from $19-$23 for 5 quart jugs. GC Syntec is getting harder to find, PP is usually dirt cheap on sale (<$2 a quart) sometimes cheaper than conventional oils - both GC Syntec and PP tend to run a little thick for me. Regular Syntec is pretty cheap as well - can get that around $15 for a gallon jug.

Additives and specialty oils (usually don't buy these, but ones that I will buy if on sale or need to clean something up): Shell Rotella diesel motor oil - great for oil burning cars, cleans them up pretty well - thicker and has more shear/high pressure additives compared to regular motor oil. Note that the additive package can destroy a catalytic converter. Marvel Mystery Oil and Rislone - old standbys that haven't changed much over the past couple of decades. More nostalgia here - additives that my father used himself with great results. Still works in some cases now. Redline Sl-1, Chevron Techron, Gumout Regane, Valvoline - all fuel system additives that I've found that actually did stuff. All these have some varying amounts of PEA, the active cleaner that cleans the fuel system.

Is it true that Havoline is manufactured by Chevron? That oil change special is a good deal at O'Reilly. . .

I have been on eBay quite a bit and I have to agree with you on the lot of 10 Toyota OEM filters. I see them quite a bit and with free shipping, they are about four dollars per filter. I just wonder if the Corolla will last long enough. I am not surprised you didn't list Fram, as I have heard on other online forums (especially recently an Accord forum) that they are of inferior quality. I have used WIX in the past, but I have not used NAPA. I have used NAPA Gold air filters.

In the shop for the clutch replacement today. Likely won't get car back until late tomorrow or early Wednesday. Not in a hurry.

Side question: On your 2002, does your A/C come on automatically when you select defrost/defog mode?

I think I've read that somewhere. Supposed to be Chevron Supreme oil repacked as Havoline. Havoline is part of Texaco oil, which merged with Chevron, but the Havoline name was retained.

Some people beat on its poor specs, as the newer SN designation is not as robust as the older SM designation. Though I think most other brands are in the same boat - newer designation was designed for better fuel efficiency and deposit control, not hardcore engine protection. This means oil changes are critically important - mechanical issues in the engine have to be addressed ASAP, as those will deplete the oil's additive package quickly.

Some people still only used FRAM. Personally - I'm not a big fan of FRAM, even though this was the only filter I used some 15-20 years ago. But two disappointing oil filter finds on both my Corolla and older Camry got my attention. In both cases, the filter media came loose from the can, ie. it rattled around inside the can, didn't filter anything. These were the smaller filters - on my old muscle cars which use the larger PH8A filters - I actually still use FRAM.

As for the A/C kicking in defrost mode - yes, mind engages the compressor. There were some instructions to disable the automatic engagement when you select defrost/defog mode - was pretty simple, but I've lost track of them. Definitely would help with fuel economy in cases where you didn't need to dry out the air.

I will stick with OEM Toyota and WIX filters then. I do agree with you on your choice of oils, as those are the brands I have used too (Mobil and Valvoline). I found DENSO Part # 1501000 on rockauto at less than three dollars. Is this the Denso part number you used in the 2002 in the past?

I haven't used Quaker State in a long time, possibly since the nineties in my '96 Celica. I only used Pennzoil once.

I know in some vehicles, the A/C engages as long as the outside temperature is not below 32. It would be nice to override the compressor engaging, as it defogs quickly, and I also don't like having the A/C on for less than a minute. If I turn it on, I'd like it to run for at least five minutes as I think having it on for less than that actually may put more wear on the A/C components.

I would like to run the A/C once a week in the winter when temps. are above 32 (but in January winters here, two to three weeks can pass before that temperature arrives).

I was at the junkyard on Saturday and I found a '94 Camry (2.2 liter) with 408,000 miles on an automatic. On the engine was a genuine Toyota oil filter. Sounds like another meticulous Toyota owner. But, as you know, using the OEM parts, though a couple bucks more, pay for themselves. The interior of this Camry was very nice, minimal wear, and had the factory cassette "Logic Control Deck" (as does my Corolla). I dislike anything aftermarket. I keep it all factory.

Went to the mechanic today (he's only five minutes from where I live) to chat and look at the progress on the clutch replacement. He said it's the most difficult clutch he's done. The bolts are so hard, he's used breaker bars, torch, and lots of sweat. But, I reminded him the clutch is still original. He is still amazed by that. On the shelf was two quarts of the Redline MT-90 and the SACHS clutch.

He is replacing the front pads and rotors. I didn't believe his wife when she called me and stated the pads were only "twenty-percent left" and I need pads and rotors. I didn't believe her at first, but I inspected myself when I arrived and indeed, they were very worn. Rotors are due too. Because the mechanic is a friend of my friend, he stated he would charge just for parts, and not labor. He said OEM pads are ceramic. I found that hard to believe, so I looked on RockAuto and learned that OEM really is ceramic. We decided on the "high-performance/heavy-duty" Raybestos (part number ATD417C). They're about $38 on RockAuto, but his wife stated at the ACI automotive outlet a block away, she can get them for $51 plus tax. No problem. These pads also have a three year, 36,000 mile warranty. What do you think about this?

I had the driver's side inner and outer tie rods replaced in August from Goodyear as you recall. I told the mechanic I want the passenger side replaced too, as I always like suspension and steering components replaced in pairs. I told him Goodyear said "the passenger side isn't bad, but we'd still like to replace it if we're doing the driver's side", but I was too upset with Goodyear to authorize anything else.

I don't know how old the exhaust system is, but it's very quiet. The muffler has the word "Toyota" on it. Perhaps it was replaced at some point at the dealership?

Here's a brief look at the pads: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1097304&cc=1432913

I probably won't have the car back until late Wednesday or early Thursday at this point. Driving my roommate's Accord for now.

In regard to the A/C compressor coming on in defog/defrost mode, I think post #7 makes a good point:

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/member-mods/36512-how-prevent-air-conditioner-coming-automatically/

Also, found this PDF for a 2005 Corolla: http://www.greenmycon.com/Resources/Projects/CAR/Decouple_AC_Defroster.pdf

Bottom line for me: If A/C compressor doesn't operate below 32 degrees (am I correct on that?), I will just live with it coming on in defrost mode.

About the Orielly Microgard filter it's basically a value line Wix filter since it's identical just with less media being the only difference. I've used Havoline for years without issue but I burn oil about a qt every 1k miles so I'm switching to Valv Maxlife high mileage for a couple of OCI to see how it does and if it doesn't work well then I'll try the high mileage Castrol or Pennzoil.

Here's a good forum to bookmark that posts the current oil/filter sales that different places have: BITOG: Product Rebates, Sales and Promotions

I recently changed the oil, not using the Havoline, but Valvoline high-mileage that was still out in the garage. Didn't use the microguard, but used a Purolator I had on hand. I use 1/3 of a quart every 3,000 miles.



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