Just offered a job for 1 1/2 years in California. I have a 2003 that was made and bought in CA., brought cross country in 05, now deciding if its a good idea to go back with it,It has 193,000 miles with same alternator. I have replaced belt tensioner, belt, and hoses, brakes but thats about it. Never adjusted valves which is probably not smart planning . I have a P0420 code that I cant yet get rid of, but looks like I may have to replace CAT with CARB compliant one before I leave, which is what i have on this car since it was bought and made in CA. Just wondering how many more miles this car has yet to see? If anyone thinks that it is bad idea to make this trip , let me hear from you!! I can take any criticism,
Thanks
We really don't know and cannot determine exactly what state of health your car is in, what it will have to go through, and under which conditions.... You'll find out soon enough if it's good for it when and if you make it all the way there. The better prepared you are, the better your chances will be.
I agree with dom - it is really hard to say as anything can happen. Even a brand, spanking new car can fail on an across country trip.
P0420 code should not cause any issues with this distance - more for emissions than anything else. Just make sure the running gear is in good shape - brakes, wheels, tires, suspension, steering, chassis, etc. Fresh fluids will be a good idea as well - just make sure you change them before you embark on the trip. Don't want to run off on a cross-country trip only to find out that the oil plug was screwed on finger tight.
Just to clarify about emissions, if I change the CAT to try and get rid of P0420, do I need to get one with CARB http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3887436 ? Is this because I have a car with California emissions and if I change it with one without CARB certification my check engine light will stay on? Or is because CA will not pass it because they have visual check of CAT? What if I have a car that was bought in 49 state, bring it to CA for inspection for new registration, would I pass emissions test if car passes in other states? I am just trying to decide, if I cant get rid of code, I may buy used corolla here in Delaware, maybe a few years old, and take it to CA. Of course, if I take it I will try and get away with not having to register for as long as possible! Problem is the 2003 with the code only has 1 year left on registration. If I buy a used car, Delaware has option for 2 year registration, and that is more than enough time to cover me out there, before I quit job and move back east. Hope this is not to complicated reply,
Thx
Its the latter - the cat has to pass a visible inspection - meaning it has to show the EO or a CARB number, clearly stamped on the casing. The car having Cali emissions will have no bearing on the replacement catalytic converter, unless it is a universal type that is actually missing certain compounds that allow for the more stringent emission control (ie, the replacement one is not a 3-way catalytic converter).
Also want to make note that there might be the possibility of an issue of importing your car into California, even if the car was manufacturer in Cali. Usually a non-issue with most cars now - but might turn into a sticky issue if the car being brought in is only "federally emission certified" - basically a non-direct way of saying it is only 49-state legal. You want to make sure that the underhood sticker say something of "50 state/California certified" or California certified". Not sure if they changed the law or not - but that was an issue some years ago. This might make it something to think about if you buy another car to get around this emissions snafu.
Went to mechanic and they told me to change upstream O2 sensor before considering to change CAT converter. In fact he was a little surprised that I would change downstream before I change upstream, maybe he got the streams mixed up? Upstream was never changed maybe it does need a change, looks like a pain. Does heat shield have to come off? With heat shield on my special socket can not grab sensor enough without me stripping it. If they made a deeper one I might be able to grab it. Just looks like heat shield bolts are real rusty and pain to take off. Do you think I am wasting time changing this sensor with a 190,000 mile cat installed?
Thanks again for any info out there!!!
Upstream sensor controls the feedback to the ECM - that is the primary sensor that controls how much fuel needs to be added / removed. The downstream sensor's primary job is to look at how the catalytic converter is functioning. If a preset threshold is exceeded a certain number of times - it will pop up a P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold.
If your fuel has been pretty decent - haven't noticed any gross changes - then I wouldn't touch the upstream one. If you think the upstream one is starting to die - then now would be a good time to replace it. These engines are pretty picky about the sensor - stick with Denso branded sensors to avoid much of the impedance mismatch issues that others have seen. As for removal - it isn't too bad - but you might have to remove a number of stuff out of the way to make additional clearance.
Hello again,
I have no starting or other electrical issues, but since i am going cross country in a 193,000 mi car with original Alternator, does anyone suggest changing alternator or having spare.Is there a quick way of testing alternator, or only way is to remove and check brushes? RE Manufactured ones as you probably know is well over $150.00.
Thanks again!
You can remove the alternator and have it tested - but honestly, you'll likely be fine. No sense carry a spare alternator - but a spare serpentine belt is not a bad idea (assuming you kept the old belt, or keep this belt when you change it).
Alternators generally fail with plenty of warning - can't keep up with electrical demands, won't charge the battery, etc. If there is a catastrophic failure in one of the diodes or solenoid - that would be almost impossible to check before hand. Just have to deal with it when it fails.
You can remove the alternator and have it tested - but honestly, you'll likely be fine. No sense carry a spare alternator - but a spare serpentine belt is not a bad idea (assuming you kept the old belt, or keep this belt when you change it).
Alternators generally fail with plenty of warning - can't keep up with electrical demands, won't charge the battery, etc. If there is a catastrophic failure in one of the diodes or solenoid - that would be almost impossible to check before hand. Just have to deal with it when it fails.
Fish, you seem to know everything,,, you posted the most accurate answer about the alternator situation, and I've studied some basic DC circuits before
in college and its clear you are quite knowledgeable. Damn it, is there anything you don't know when it comes to corollas ??
Have you studied electronics before ?? or studied university level physics and chemistry like I did ?? or are you a retired electrical engineer ??
Your contributions on this board is priceless.
If you have a cheap multi-meter, you can check the voltage while your car is running. Start it up, and compare between the + and - terminals on the battery. It should be between 13.5 and 15.1 (or 14.8 depending on who you ask) volts. Turn the AC on full blast, high beams and rear defroster and it should remain in that range (it will drop and then catch up). Next try revving the engine if you can do so while still reading the voltage (easy on a car w/ throttle cable) -- it should go up but remain in the range.
I actually just posted a howto on replacing alternators in 2002 models ;-) here!
With a 190,000 mile cat, if it's good or bad, you won't profit from a new downstream O2 sensor which is only there to monitor cat efficiency. You shouldn't have to remove exhaust manifold heat shield to replace upstream O2 sensor... I think you're good to get there and back a few times over if engine isn't knocking and/or burning oil uncontrolably. With oil and coolant kept at full mark, you probably couldn't kill it even if you tried. Highway cruising is easy on the engine.
If you have a cheap multi-meter, you can check the voltage while your car is running. Start it up, and compare between the + and - terminals on the battery. It should be between 13.5 and 15.1 (or 14.8 depending on who you ask) volts. Turn the AC on full blast, high beams and rear defroster and it should remain in that range (it will drop and then catch up). Next try revving the engine if you can do so while still reading the voltage (easy on a car w/ throttle cable) -- it should go up but remain in the range.
I actually just posted a howto on replacing alternators in 2002 models ;-) here!
Thx , great guide you have for Alt chg!!
Fish, you seem to know everything,,, you posted the most accurate answer about the alternator situation, and I've studied some basic DC circuits beforein college and its clear you are quite knowledgeable. Damn it, is there anything you don't know when it comes to corollas ??
Have you studied electronics before ?? or studied university level physics and chemistry like I did ?? or are you a retired electrical engineer ??
Your contributions on this board is priceless.
I don't know everything - but I know enough to usually get myself into trouble. Fortunately, also know enough to get myself out of trouble too, usually.
Yeah, I also have advanced degrees in physics and math. My main focus in college was computational physics, with a concentration on thermodynamics and thermochemistry of polymeric materials. Actually my job hired me away before I finished up my doctorate degree in polymer engineering - might have been for the best, as some of those guys that graduated with me are ping-ponging from job to job. Most of the "real" engineering work was done outside of college as part of the job. Electrical stuff was always a hobby - building protoboards, telecom equipment, RF equipment, etc.
Now I work at a small R&D firm in the DC Metro area - working on a number of different programs, most DoD related. Engineering, field testing, system design, algorithm development, embedded system programming, fabrication, paper studies, etc. - from underwater to outer space - we cover a surprising wide range of stuff. Pretty demanding work load - but also lots of fun. They keep me pretty busy, so I don't get too bored. Unfortunately, I don't have alot of time to mess with the car.
This. No sense worrying too much about it. Lasted this long, a long road trip will not kill it, as long as you keep an eye on critical fluid levels.
... With oil and coolant kept at full mark, you probably couldn't kill it even if you tried...
I was reading my Haynes manual and it states a Valve clearance check @ every 60000 miles or 48 mo. Gosh, I never checked it, maybe that is why I hear a knock especially in winter time at start up till few minutes after warm up. Anyone think its necessary, looks like a fairly time consuming job especially for person thats never done it before.
Valve clearance check is an audible check. The 1ZZ-FE engine is also pretty noisy under normal circumstances. Valvetrain ticking/chattering noise on a cold start or startup in colder weather is perfectly normal. As the engine warms up - the noise starts to go away. Where there is a problem is when the noise doesn't go away after the engine warms up.
Not a hard job - but does eat up a little bit of time. I usually do it when I get ready to change the valve cover gasket - just to get a peek at the valvetrain. I've checked mine close to every 60K miles - now with over 205K miles, valve clearances are still within spec.
Yeah there is likely piston slap noise upon warmup in colder weather... I adjusted all 16 valve clearances at 100,000 miles, with 7 new lifters and by switching the others around. All were still within spec range, but some were close to maximum clearance spec and ticking a bit. All valve clearances had increased slightly since checked at 60,000 miles. Valve clearances don't tend to decrease on this engine, which is a good thing. A lack of valve clearance reduces valve heat transfer which can cause damage.
