As long as it is the same type (solvent type) of clearcoat - brands don't really mean too much. Example, if it is a urethane or acrylic clear paint. Acrylic ones are inexpensive, quick drying, and simpler to apply - urethane based ones are single or two component paints, so may or may not be reuseable after mixed - but trades that for superior durability and gloss.

For "most" paint systems, the lacquer (acrylic) paint "should" be OK. It is quick drying so its solvent won't be too aggressive with the base paint. Doesn't mean it is perfectly safe - even in a small chip, it could cause the bottom layer to craze or turn cloudy. Best way to check is to try in an some scrap material (put some touch-up on some metal, then apply the unknown clear on it) or inside the door jam (put ontop of the existing clear to see if it eats the paint). If it works - great, if it doesn't - you're only out the cost of trying out the clear.

Myself, on chips on my Silverstream Corolla - I don't use clear touchup at all, just the Toyota silver touchup. As long as you match the height of the existing paint, you can hardly tell there is a chip there. IF the chip is bigger than my thumbnail, then I could see having to use clear on-top. For those that are the size of a grain of rice - just overfill the chip, let it dry, then polish down - chip repair basically blends into the existing paint finish.