1999 Corolla Electrical Head Scratcher - Toyota Corolla, Chevy Prizm (1998-2008)

I have a 1999 Corolla with auto., power windows and power door locks. Someone recently touched the car making the factory alarm go off. I discontinued the alarm by unlocking the driver's door with my key fob. Since this event the only power window that works is the right front, both from the master switch at driver's door and the right front door switch. None of the power door locks work except from the right front switch--that switch now operates ALL the locks. I checked the power window and door lock fuses, and they look fine. I even replaced the P/W fuse just in case. The fusible links look good. I did not check the power window relay, as I couldn't find it. Any ideas?

Thanks.

Hmm, that is pretty unusual. Could have been just a coincidence that the issues started right after you reset the alarm. Sounds like the master switch logic is not getting passed onto the other switches. Could be a number of possible culprits - for this, I'd start by making sure that all the switches are functioning correctly (need to run a multimeter to the bottom of switch, and buzz out the connections - i.e., certain positions will have continuity, some will not). Then make sure the door servos are getting power. If everything looks OK, except that power is not getting to the individual door switches, could be a bad master switch or possibly a bad integration relay (main wiring relay, where all the other relays plug into).

Thanks for the info. As far as I can figure, the 2 systems (power windows and door locks) come together at the integration relay and the master switch at the driver's door. I found the power window relay--if it went bad it seems all windows would not work. Do you have any idea where the integration relay is located, or perhaps a part number? If it is on the bottom of the fuse box near the driver's left knee, I can't find access without removing the dash.

The Integration relay is actually that whole electrical "block" (has a 12-pin connector) that stuck to the left and rear of instrument panel junction block (the block that holds the fuses and other relays). Chances of that going bad are pretty remote, but there are some people that have had that fail on them. There are some redundancy in the wiring, so some circuits do cross connection. As for fuses, the GAUGE fuse and POWER W fuse are interconnected. Relays, the integration relay (by instrument panel junction block, one one closest to the steering wheel), and the power window main relay which is on the cowl side, closest to the floor. That cowl block should only have three relays in it, one for the flasher, one for the circuit opening relay, and the power window relay. The P/W relay should be by itself, the other two are sitting right next to each other.

It was the master switch. Since fishexpo101 noted that the integration relay rarely fails I ordered a new Dorman master switch (P/N 901-702, about half the cost of OEM) from Amazon.com, which has a liberal return policy if you are multimeter challenged like me. Here are some installation tips. Carefully pry out the armrest panel containing the master switch. You need to reuse this panel. Pry out the front and sides first, as they have vertical retaining tabs. The rear part of the panel has a horizontal retaining tab, so it comes out last by carefully pulling the panel foward and up. The master switch assembly then releases downward from the panel with easy access to unplug its connector. Assembly is the reverse, taking care to slide the rear tab of the panel into place before snapping the rest of the panel down.