I bought a used 06 about 2 and half years ago, Last Feb 09, naturally after the warranity expired, the ECM just died (25K). Towed it in to my mechanic, replaced the ECM, the car was running great.
Now about 3 weeks ago it started to rough idil, ironically about the begining of Feb 2010, I took it back to my mechnic ,did total tuneup, new motor mounts and trans mount. Guess what! it still shakes like crazy when stopped at the light or in traffic. I kick it in netural to keep from shaking my teeth fillings out. Took back to the mech. he put it on the computer says he's baffled?
No codes at all. He checked for vacuum leaks, airflow sensor, PVC nothing.......Mech says maybe,,,
Possible water in the gas? I don't think so, I ran it up to 80mph ran smooth as glass, only at idil does the problem appear. I noticed that when in gear, I press the brake it gets worse, RPM drops around 900, in netural the RPM goes to 1000 to 1100 it smooths out but still a little rough. I tried disconnecting the negative battery post, to let the ECM to recalibrate, nothing still rough idiling when in gear.
I thinking again the ECM?? at 33K?
Any ideas or suggestions before I take it back to the Toyota dealership?
Writer954
Ft. Lauderdale
friendly_jacek
First, isn't ECM warrantied for a least 5 years (powertrain) or even more (emissions)?
Second, do throttle and body cleaning and report back.
First, isn't ECM warrantied for a least 5 years (powertrain) or even more (emissions)?
Second, do throttle and body cleaning and report back.
I could'nt say if the ECM was warrantied for 5 yrs, at the time it died all I could think about was getting out of traffic, and getting it to my mechanic. Some one with more knowledge then I could probably answer the question.
Took it this morning to my mech. hes', got another mech. at Toyota whos going to check the car. I told him about the Throttle cleaning, he agreed. My mech. seems to thinks ts the ECM again.
We will see, if its the ecm again, I'm getting rid of the car in the Fall.
Thanks for the suggestions..
Those particualr models - especially between 2005-2007 had a batch of bad ECMs (cold solder joints on the boards in some cases). That caused weird behavior that ultimately ended in a car that would not startup (car is just dead). ECM is covered under the federal emissions warranty - which is 8 years/80K miles - last time I checked. Some have replaced their ECMs once and have been good - some have gone through a pile of them.
A throttle body cleaning would be my first guess. Cleaning the MAF sensor (normally not a maintenance part, but many have reported much better idle quality by cleaning this part), same goes with the PCV valve (usually easier to just replace every 30K miles or so - they are pretty cheap).
Do you know if the tech went through a DBW recalibration procedure? Should be outlined in the manual, at least in the FSM. Some combination of ignition key cycling and throttle manipulation. Also DBW trottle bodies are finiky to clean - can't just pry open the throttle plate to clean it, especially if there is any power on the servo on the side. That will almost guarantee that the calibration will be thrown off and the car will idle funny.
Those particualr models - especially between 2005-2007 had a batch of bad ECMs (cold solder joints on the boards in some cases). That caused weird behavior that ultimately ended in a car that would not startup (car is just dead). ECM is covered under the federal emissions warranty - which is 8 years/80K miles - last time I checked. Some have replaced their ECMs once and have been good - some have gone through a pile of them.
A throttle body cleaning would be my first guess. Cleaning the MAF sensor (normally not a maintenance part, but many have reported much better idle quality by cleaning this part), same goes with the PCV valve (usually easier to just replace every 30K miles or so - they are pretty cheap).
Do you know if the tech went through a DBW recalibration procedure? Should be outlined in the manual, at least in the FSM. Some combination of ignition key cycling and throttle manipulation. Also DBW trottle bodies are finiky to clean - can't just pry open the throttle plate to clean it, especially if there is any power on the servo on the side. That will almost guarantee that the calibration will be thrown off and the car will idle funny.
Mech. called yesterday they're still working on it, everyone is scratching their heads. I again suggested the throttle bottle and the MAF sensor, he says the Toyota Mech says no to these items, Is the DBW recalibration when you disconnect the negative battery cable for 15 mins, then the ECM will reset itself? I did this with no change. THe PVC was change when I had it initially tuneup thinking it would cure the violent idiling. Another thing the Mech said was the RPM was ok at 900.
I just don't know!?
writer954
Guest instek
I have been facing the same problem with my 2006 corolla (73 K miles). Changed 2 motor mounts, plugs, throttle body service, ignition coil, tires, brakes....
Has been to the dealer 3 times without a fix and the total money spent is $1246. The car still is the same. It vibrates at lower speeds. It vibrates as if I was driving a tractor. I can also feel the vibrations on the stearing wheel same like i feel on my lawn mower!!!
If anyone could suggest any remedy to this problem or any one experiencing the same problem please post it so it can help save other peoples pockets. How can a Toyota dealer say he cannot understand what the problem is!!! well atleast the dealership agree that this is the problem....
