Engine Swap

Don't have to pull the transmission - but it makes it a whole lot easier to get around if you do. Like most projects, much easier to take apart than put back together - if they were separate, then you'd have to try and align two separate items instead of just the single powertrain unit.

a/c recharge kit

 

- Are you replacing the A/C or this is for recharging it if you disconnect the A/C system? First, not a good idea to vent refrigerant into the air, even R134a + you'll have to put a vacuum on the system to make sure that there is no moisture in it + have to carefully monitor pressures, be tough to do with the ones they bundle with most A/C kits. Depending on how you pull the engine, might not even need to disconnect the A/C lines.

tranny fluid

- Good idea in any situation. Get something that is compatible with Toyota Type T-IV ATF - there are more choices now than before. Or stick with Toyota OEM - if you buy it by a case, you might be able to get a decent price break.

oil + oil filter

- Good idea

gasket materials (the right stuff)

- Good idea. Go OEM for less headaches - not that much more in cost. Be careful here, even well known manufacturer's like Fel-Pro and others can have "alternative" gaskets that might need some trimming, modification to fit.

3 cases of beer

- This is the most import part of the swap:D

oxygen sensor wrench

- should be able to get at it with a wrench, if you can't find the specialized socket

blue and red locktite

- Good idea

2 exhaust gaskets

- Sounds good

brake fluid

- Good idea

2 gallons of red toyota coolant (Need to know the best place to buy locally dealership?)

- Two gallons if you are using the premixed stuff (Toyota pink coolant), of buy one gallon of the 100% coolant (Toyota red coolant) - then mix it with distilled water yourself. This is definitely a dealership item. You can use other compatible coolants - but you must flush every bit of the old coolant and water out before you can switch. But I'd recommend sticking with Toyota Red - hard to beat it for protection, especially for the water pump's longevity.

thermostat

- Good idea

ziploc baggies + postit notes + marker + masking tape

- Great ideas, make sure to take pics if possible. Just incase labels get mis-marked or lost.

plastic dead blow hammer

- Prybar would also be a nice to have

Good list so far - also depends on the extent of the swap and how you are going to do it. Assuming the original engine has got to be in really bad shape to warrant a swap. The 9th gen Corollas are not really known to have too many engine issues - so I'm assuming you are swapping the same model year engine or at least the same generation (2003-2004 would be best). If you don't want to mess with the A/C lines, you can drop the engine from below, rather than pluck it from the top. Would most likely have to pull the driveshafts out of the way to make room for the engine to drop. Also the front cross member would have to come out - so you'd have to find something to hold the transaxle. Pulling it from the top - would give you the best shot of removing the engine separate from the transaxle - but also mean be likely to disconnect the refrigerant lines. More maneuvering to get it out and pretty close to a nightmare to get it back in (have to line the engine up and keep the transaxle away, but later make sure that you can mate them together).

Basically, a lot of work trying to keep the tranny attached. Will save you time to drop it from the bottom as a unit. Plus give you a chance to clean those cases up pretty well - check for any problems, like surface cracks and chips, deal with leaks (if any), replace the mounts would be a good idea as well - at least test them to see if they are still in good shape.

Actually pretty tough to test the mounts 100%, but a quick visual inspection that show any surface cracks or signs of dry rot - usually means the mount has probably seen better days. have to flex that mount around a bit too, some damage will not be visible, unless you flex it around.

As for tips on pulling the engine - just use common sense and having more than a few sets of hands/eyes can help. Drain all the fluids, disconnect and remove the battery, disconnect all the hoses and wiring, loosen the center nut on the axle - easier if the car is still on the ground (get at it through the wheel's center bore) - unless you have access to an impact wrench, that case - may not matter. Much easier if you remove the hood first - if you pull it from the top. Lay a towel or similar against the glass to protect against light contact. The hood isn't heavy, but can be pretty unwieldy.

Should be able to get all the mounts from the bottom - some pretty decently sized bolts hold on to them. Might also need some special pipe fitting adapters to uncouple those fancy fittings in the fuel and A/C system. Take a look first before you start - as you might already have something that might work. Once the axles, mounts, induction and exhaust stuff is disconnected, all the hoses (fuel, A/C, P/S, vacuum, heater and radiator lines), all electricals - should be able to just pluck the engine and transaxle out as a unit. Need to swivel it laterally to clear some brackets.

Take care not to damage the bottom of the engine (don't crush the oil pan) - as the 1ZZ-FE uses that as part of its structure, for vibration control and strength. Either set it on an engine stand, or if that is not available a scrap tire and wooden pallet. Don't just toss it into the bed of a truck - as I've lost count of engines that taken collateral damage from the trip from the salvage yard to my garage. Pretty easy to cave in the oil pans, snap off an ear for a bracket or worse. Just go slow, document as much as you can (makes installtion go a lot smoother), thnk safety first and good luck.

As long as you got the same model year engine - very little to swap over, unless something on the donor engine is missing or in bad shape. Model year 2000+ engines use VVTi - so their cylinder heads would be different. You can use the donor engine's block by itself and move everything else over from your existing engine - so a "swap" is still possible. Otherwise, you'll have to move over wiring, ECM, sensors, etc. from the donor car - to make it work in your car.

Common problem areas to check for (note: would apply to any engine) - serpentine belt tensioner (the little shock/strut looking portion), if it is leaking or you can easily depress it by hand, that should be replaced. Waterpump, oil pump, timing chain tensioner (different from the previously mentioned serpentine belt tensioner - as the timing chain tensioner is inside the engine) - if any of those signs of leaking - either pass on the engine, or make sure to address them ASAP. Check all pulleys for slop and visible damage. Check the engine over carefully for any cracks, leaks, etc.

Another option - since the engine is out - you'll be able to get a better look at it. Possible that the existing engine can be rebuilt - that way you won't have any incompatibilities on swapping it back in and might be even cheaper - depending on what was wrong with it.