2001 Corolla Engine Replacement

Hello,

 

I am replacing the engine in a firends 2001 Corolla, 1.8L, automatic trans Corolla. I have several options available, however I need to know, which years are compatible? On Ebay, the 1.8L goes from $550 to $3,000 depending on year/testing. I truly appreciate any help.

Dave

the 2000-2002 are the first generation vvi variable valve timing motors and many have a problem with oil burning . this can occur between 80000 - 120000 miles. watch out! i have heard 2 different stories. either it is the oil control piston rings or the valve seals/and or both. either way , not a good scenario. you would be better off getting a rebuilt motor or a local crash motor with a known history from a private owner.

 

you can use the block from i think 1998 to 2003 but everything else might be different. I would stick to the late 2000-2002 version . it is a direct bolt in .

What happened to your friends engine? How many miles did it have on it? Did they let the oil get too low and forget to top it off?

Why is it I can't see my cursor? That is amazing.. Anyway, from what he says, it is the second engine, the first "blew up" and put a hole through the engine. Thsi second motor was a junkyard engine that burned oil from day one, and as he says, he forgot to put oil in it and suddenly it had a horrible valvetrain chatter. Thank you VERY much double trouble, you have helped me out a great deal.

What happened to your friends engine? How many miles did it have on it? Did they let the oil get too low and forget to top it off?

Why is it I can't see my cursor? That is amazing.. Anyway, from what he says, it is the second engine, the first "blew up" and put a hole through the engine. Thsi second motor was a junkyard engine that burned oil from day one, and as he says, he forgot to put oil in it and suddenly it had a horrible valvetrain chatter. Thank you VERY much double trouble, you have helped me out a great deal.

 

What happened to your friends engine? How many miles did it have on it? Did they let the oil get too low and forget to top it off?

How did his first engine blow, from low oil too? Sounds like he doesnt take care of cars too well. A engine that burns oil is the last thing you want to be forgetful with. 

I am going to try this, as I cannot see where the cursor is, or move it with the arrow keys

I believe the first engine blue up due to negligence, yes.

I have a question: Will a rebuild kit fix the oil burning issues if I rebuild the existing motor? If the cam and crank are good maybe that would be the better route, rather than getting a junkyar dmotor that has an unkown history. Thank you for helping me.

Dave

Why is it I can't see my cursor? That is amazing.. Anyway, from what he says, it is the second engine, the first "blew up" and put a hole through the engine. Thsi second motor was a junkyard engine that burned oil from day one, and as he says, he forgot to put oil in it and suddenly it had a horrible valvetrain chatter. Thank you VERY much double trouble, you have helped me out a great deal.

 

What happened to your friends engine? How many miles did it have on it? Did they let the oil get too low and forget to top it off?

How did his first engine blow, from low oil too? Sounds like he doesnt take care of cars too well. A engine that burns oil is the last thing you want to be forgetful with.

Here is some info I got from a salvage interchange index.

COROLLA 2000-2002 (1.8L, VIN R, 5th digit, 1ZZFE eng,)

PRIZM 2000-2002 1.8L (VIN 8, 8th digit)

Thank you, Fishexpo101!

You have been a great help. I talked with the guy and he feels a rtebuild, in the light of oil consumption issues, is going to be our best bet. I was unable to find a similar vehicle in any boneyards here anyway. Thank you guys, i will refer anyone I know who drives a corolla to this forum.

Dave

I am going to try this, as I cannot see where the cursor is, or move it with the arrow keys

I believe the first engine blue up due to negligence, yes.

I have a question: Will a rebuild kit fix the oil burning issues if I rebuild the existing motor? If the cam and crank are good maybe that would be the better route, rather than getting a junkyar dmotor that has an unkown history. Thank you for helping me.

Dave

Depending on the current issues/conditions of the existing motor. If it is running well, aside from excessive oil consumption, a rebuild may be the right way to go. You won't really know until you tear the engine down - as running with low oil for even a short period could wipe out the bearings on the crank, chew up the cams, and really play havok with the VVTi actuator.

But given that the engine is in good shape otherwise, there is a very good chance you can solve the oil consumption issues with either a ring job and rehoning the cylinder walls and/or new valve seals. You have to do a hot compression test and leakdown test to see if it is either the rings or seals (could be both). If it doesn't build compression - probably the rings. If it build pressure, but doesn't hold it - probably the valve seals. Note that this cannot differentiate from heavily scored cylinder walls or burnt/bent valves.

The 1ZZ-FE cranks are pretty tough - those are semi-forged pieces from the factory and are shot-peened for stress relief. The bearings are another matter - but most master rebuild kits will give you those bearings anyways. Keep in mind, that a comprehesive rebuild kit will set you back as much as $400-$500 or more - but that will basically replace everything except for the block, heads, and crank. You would end up with a nearly brand new motor.

Another option is to buy a rebuilt 1ZZ-FE from a retailer - prices vary considerably - but I've seen them start around $750 and go up. Those motors come with a warranty - anywhere from a 120 day/4,000 miles to a 1 year/12,000 miles warranty. Those are basically clean blocks and heads with new parts inside.

Like mentioned above, junkyard engines are hit or miss. If you can find one still in the car - see if the yard will let you do a compression test (really need to get the engine up to operating temp for this). For leakdown - give each cylinder a shot of oil to help temporarily seal the piston (rings). If the engine doesn't build/hold compression when cold - there is a good chance it will turn out to be an oil burner, or is completely shot. Sometimes you'll get a good one - but that is pretty remote. Usually the ones that are not burning oil are still in the hands of their owners. So far - 150K miles on my 2002, doesn't burn a drop of oil, 5w-30 synthetic motor oil after the second or third oil change (OEM fills were conventional oil).