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Changed Battery, Car Won't Start



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I just changed the battery in my 94, the car won't start. Put in the old battery, the problem remains the same. Any ideas. There's a clicking sound coming from the left side of the front hood when I try to start it. The engine doesn't turn over, Radio, lights, wipers and everything work fine.

Could be the starter, or bad battery terminals.

Could be the starter, or bad battery terminals.

We've been running tests on the various stuff in the car. We have 12 volts going to the starter, but it doesn't seem to be hitting the solenoid. So it doesn't turn over at all.

The battery(s) both seem to test fine. Lights, wipers and such all are working.

Added in edit: The relay for the starter seems to work, but it's not getting power when we try to start the car.

Guess yo ufigured ou tits teh startor.

now the question is, do you get a new one, or do you rebuild the one you have?...

good luck

tdk

No it's not the starter, we manually tested it. It worked. We tried the neutral safety switch as well. It seemed to not be working, but when replaced the car still is not starting.

Added in edit: We're leaning towards it being a break between the relay and the starter.

Update: Some electrical problems have been resolved, the line from the starter relay to the starter itself had to be replaced. Still chasing other potential problems.

Still doesn't start??

Did it start before you changed the battery??

Check the schematic for the car and also the troubleshooting section in the manual.

Normally you check voltage on the battery and then at the starter.

There is also a starter relay that can fail (I've had to change a couple).

Chances are that the circuit has a failed component or a wiring/connection problem.

I have had batteries that checked good and yet the car would not start.

Turned out to be the terminal connection on the battery, or the ground wire.

Also had starters check out on a tester, but still had to be replaced.

Hope you find the cause and get it fixed.

Let me know if you need some information from the manual.

Still doesn't start??Did it start before you changed the battery??

 

Check the schematic for the car and also the troubleshooting section in the manual.

Normally you check voltage on the battery and then at the starter.

There is also a starter relay that can fail (I've had to change a couple).

Chances are that the circuit has a failed component or a wiring/connection problem.

I have had batteries that checked good and yet the car would not start.

Turned out to be the terminal connection on the battery, or the ground wire.

Also had starters check out on a tester, but still had to be replaced.

Hope you find the cause and get it fixed.

Let me know if you need some information from the manual.

Here's where we're at now.

Yesterday we ran new wires from the starter to the starter relay, directly firing the starter and the car ran. After taking apart the area around the ignition we discovered a potential problem. The Delco car radio theft deterrent system in the Corolla/Prizm had tied into the ignition, we disconnected it and the car fired up and ran, I actually did a short test drive and all seemed to be well after re-assembling.

Unfortunately, this morning when trying to start up the car for work, the car didn't start. Despite having started maybe 9 hours earlier. I think it's something still potentially related to the theft deterrent.

Just to clarify slightly, the car is a Prizm, the manual said it had a Theft Deterrent system for the radio only, upon further inspection the system connects to the ignition as well.

We had everything re-assembled and running late last night. But by morning the car once again wouldn't start. I'm guessing we need to completely remove that theft deterrent system. Everything else SHOULD be working correctly since. It was working last night. If anyone has any experience taking these things out entirely or any other suggestions feel free to speak up.

Would this be an aftermarket theft deterrent system or one that is OEM? I find that even OEM ones - especially ones that are port installed - and almost all aftermarket ones will need a significant portion of it pulled out to allow the car to work normally. Half-disabiling the system can instroduce tons of intermittent electrical issues. If this seemed to have started after the original battery was replaced - I would look for a box, usually mounted inline with the main power, running to the ignition switch - then pull that off. They usually work on the principle of a disconnect - once primary power is disconnected, it would "open" and no power will ge tto the switch. You could always buzz the wiring all the way from the battery to the ignition switch - just on the off chance that some of the wiring suddenly got shorted, as it may not even be related to the anti-theft system.

Would this be an aftermarket theft deterrent system or one that is OEM? I find that even OEM ones - especially ones that are port installed - and almost all aftermarket ones will need a significant portion of it pulled out to allow the car to work normally. Half-disabiling the system can instroduce tons of intermittent electrical issues. If this seemed to have started after the original battery was replaced - I would look for a box, usually mounted inline with the main power, running to the ignition switch - then pull that off. They usually work on the principle of a disconnect - once primary power is disconnected, it would "open" and no power will ge tto the switch. You could always buzz the wiring all the way from the battery to the ignition switch - just on the off chance that some of the wiring suddenly got shorted, as it may not even be related to the anti-theft system.

Not sure if it's OEM or not. My guess is that it is, since it seems to have the delco on it. This is the first time I've changed the battery as the owner.

 

We disconnected it from the ignition switch and that allowed the car to start. From there it worked, I was able to start it, reassemble the car, and even make a short trip to and from my friends house to drop him off after having him assist for around 10 hours in getting the car running.

I'm guessing we have to complete remove any power to or from the anti-theft system to disable it entirely?

Also any ideas as to why it allowed us to start after disconnecting it last night but wouldn't this morning?

I GREATLY appreciate the help.

The starting only once part is a mystery.

I have removed a couple of anti-theft systems from 7th generation Corollas.

I took out everything (including horn, circuit box and all wires).

I reconnected the ignition wires (color coded).

Before then, the car did not start. After removal, started every time.

The starting only once part is a mystery.I have removed a couple of anti-theft systems from 7th generation Corollas.

 

I took out everything (including horn, circuit box and all wires).

I reconnected the ignition wires (color coded).

Before then, the car did not start. After removal, started every time.

How deep in is this circuit box, we just disconnected the device from the ignition system and got it to start once before reassembly, once after re-assembly and then twice in actually driving it last night.

The button enterer thingee says Pursuit on it. The numbers are lit up green when the key is in the ignition a clicking occurs and then it turns red after the key has been out of the ignition for a little while.

I'm also positive this is the problem.

Added in edit: I looked up the keypad and found a reference to it in an old news story, it's a "Pursuit Keypad" it's responsible for all of this hell.

Sounds like a valet mode or timed ignition kill system (anti-carjacking feature). I'd just yank the whole works - some audio chops and dealerships will solder in "extra" wire leads to foil would be car thieves. Makes it "extra" fun to try and diagnose, wire trace leads back to a source.

Sounds like a valet mode or timed ignition kill system (anti-carjacking feature). I'd just yank the whole works - some audio chops and dealerships will solder in "extra" wire leads to foil would be car thieves. Makes it "extra" fun to try and diagnose, wire trace leads back to a source.

 

I think I found the password to it, unfortunately at the moment it's disconnected. I'm having to wait until my friend is here with adequete tools and wire connectors to be able to try to reconnect and hopefully unlock it. It's clear this is the reason why I've had so much trouble starting the car.

Sounds like a valet mode or timed ignition kill system (anti-carjacking feature). I'd just yank the whole works - some audio chops and dealerships will solder in "extra" wire leads to foil would be car thieves. Makes it "extra" fun to try and diagnose, wire trace leads back to a source.

 

I think I found the password to it, unfortunately at the moment it's disconnected. I'm having to wait until my friend is here with adequete tools and wire connectors to be able to try to reconnect and hopefully unlock it. It's clear this is the reason why I've had so much trouble starting the car.

Victory!

We have removed the device.

Also we discovered why it worked last night and not today, one of the connectors to the starter solenoid was bent, we re-bent the connector back into place to make contact. Any idea how easy it would be to replace the connector?

Sounds like a valet mode or timed ignition kill system (anti-carjacking feature). I'd just yank the whole works - some audio chops and dealerships will solder in "extra" wire leads to foil would be car thieves. Makes it "extra" fun to try and diagnose, wire trace leads back to a source.

 

I think I found the password to it, unfortunately at the moment it's disconnected. I'm having to wait until my friend is here with adequete tools and wire connectors to be able to try to reconnect and hopefully unlock it. It's clear this is the reason why I've had so much trouble starting the car.

Victory!

We have removed the device.

Also we discovered why it worked last night and not today, one of the connectors to the starter solenoid was bent, we re-bent the connector back into place to make contact. Any idea how easy it would be to replace the connector?

Is it one which requires starter removal and dissassembly to change??

 

 

Sounds like a valet mode or timed ignition kill system (anti-carjacking feature). I'd just yank the whole works - some audio chops and dealerships will solder in "extra" wire leads to foil would be car thieves. Makes it "extra" fun to try and diagnose, wire trace leads back to a source.

 

I think I found the password to it, unfortunately at the moment it's disconnected. I'm having to wait until my friend is here with adequete tools and wire connectors to be able to try to reconnect and hopefully unlock it. It's clear this is the reason why I've had so much trouble starting the car.

Victory!

We have removed the device.

Also we discovered why it worked last night and not today, one of the connectors to the starter solenoid was bent, we re-bent the connector back into place to make contact. Any idea how easy it would be to replace the connector?

Is it one which requires starter removal and dissassembly to change??

 

No, it doesn't. We re-wired the connection to it. we bent up the connector a bit when running leads into it to check for voltage and it needs to be swapped. I don't know exactly what the part would be called, I may have to get it from a junkyard. The car starts fine for now, but that bent up and potentially lose connector is a worry.

Sounds like a valet mode or timed ignition kill system (anti-carjacking feature). I'd just yank the whole works - some audio chops and dealerships will solder in "extra" wire leads to foil would be car thieves. Makes it "extra" fun to try and diagnose, wire trace leads back to a source.

 

I think I found the password to it, unfortunately at the moment it's disconnected. I'm having to wait until my friend is here with adequete tools and wire connectors to be able to try to reconnect and hopefully unlock it. It's clear this is the reason why I've had so much trouble starting the car.

Victory!

We have removed the device.

Also we discovered why it worked last night and not today, one of the connectors to the starter solenoid was bent, we re-bent the connector back into place to make contact. Any idea how easy it would be to replace the connector?

Is it one which requires starter removal and dissassembly to change??

 

No, it doesn't. We re-wired the connection to it. we bent up the connector a bit when running leads into it to check for voltage and it needs to be swapped. I don't know exactly what the part would be called, I may have to get it from a junkyard. The car starts fine for now, but that bent up and potentially lose connector is a worry.

OK. The junkyard may be your best bet to get a replacement.

 

Post a picture and I can check if I have one for you.

OK. The junkyard may be your best bet to get a replacement.Post a picture and I can check if I have one for you.

I'd take a picture but the piece is presently in my car, it's basically the connector that connects the line from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid.

OK. The junkyard may be your best bet to get a replacement.Post a picture and I can check if I have one for you.

I'd take a picture but the piece is presently in my car, it's basically the connector that connects the line from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid.

Is it a black connector that slides together??

 

The other connector to the starter is a connector that has a hole in the center and has a protective cover.