tough call ... neutral safety switch?burned fuse in ignition or bad starter relay. bad ground at frame. bypass all the ignition crap and hook a battery directly to the starter.remove coil wire first.see if it turns. could be a jammed gear in the starter or burned solenoid contacts.

tough call ... neutral safety switch?burned fuse in ignition or bad starter relay. bad ground at frame. bypass all the ignition crap and hook a battery directly to the starter.remove coil wire first.see if it turns. could be a jammed gear in the starter or burned solenoid contacts.

Since there is not even a click, I think it must have a cutout switch installed somewhere - it is not my car.

First I will contact the old owner and see if he had a trick to getting it started (or a special key).

Previous owner says there is a card that is passed under the blinking light/beeper prior to starting.

The card has disappeared. He is looking for his spare. Anyone have a similar anti-theft device??

I looked through the car and did not find any card that could be used to neutralize the start safety.

If it were my own car, I would just cut out the wires and bypass the card reader and thereby eliminate the problem.

The owner has given me permission to bypass the cutoff theft deterrent device, so I will check it out further.

I should be able to cut the two wires and splice them together, thereby eliminating the electronic piece.

Anyone have any experience with one of these??

I looked at the light that hangs below the dash on the driver's side.

It is two wires that comes out (possibly) from the ignition switch.

If I cut them and splice them together, will it eliminate the electronic card reader cut-out?

you'll need to find the brain-box of the alarm. the card reader just sends a signal to the alarm brain which then closes the circuit to allow the car to start. find the brain, get a good wiring diagram of the car and the engine circuits, and then un-install the alarm.

you'll need to find the brain-box of the alarm. the card reader just sends a signal to the alarm brain which then closes the circuit to allow the car to start. find the brain, get a good wiring diagram of the car and the engine circuits, and then un-install the alarm.

Where would the "brain box" be??

Usually I find all of that crap under the steering column or near the fuse box. The wires will probably be spliced with quick splice components so it should be fairly obvious for you.

you'll need to find the brain-box of the alarm. the card reader just sends a signal to the alarm brain which then closes the circuit to allow the car to start. find the brain, get a good wiring diagram of the car and the engine circuits, and then un-install the alarm.

Can I just yank out all the associated wires?

 

Where would the "brain box" be??

The car does not start (see another post), there is a theft deterrent system that I have to bypass.

The owner has lost the card that was used for starting.

I will have to look for the "brain-box?" and cut/splice the wires.

That is next on the list of things to do.

Should I have the owner take the car - as is - (I would tow it to his house - two blocks), or charge him to get it running??

It is really no use to him unless it runs and he has authorized me to cut/splice wires to get it started.

Anyone know how to bypass this system??

That is a toughie - depends on who made the alarm system, who installed it, and if it was installed correctly. Once you find the "brains" - you should be able to findout a lot more of the system. I would refrain from just clipping wires until you identify the box. Some systems are designed to cripple the car's electrical/ignition system in the event of being bypassed. Some of those same systems, may or may not be correctly hooked up - compounding the issue. You could go all out and just hardwire the iginition youself - but if the owner doesn't mind - a few extra days of backprobing and tracing wires would be a safer way to go. I would recommend getting a signal injector/tracer - to help track down where some wires go. TV repair shop might be a good place to check - might be able to score these for cheap or even free - as most of the newer "ultra flat" TVs cannot really be serviced anymore, most of the repair guys I know are getting rid of their older tools.

I figure I can trace the wires and find out where they go.

I may have to pull out the ignition switch, or check the wires to the starter.

I am not technical enough to use a signal tracer, so I will go with the physical tracing or metering.

The owner is not in a hurry, so if it takes a while, it will be fine.

More to follow.

The car still has a theft deterrent system on it that has to be bypassed.

The card (or whatever it is) has been lost and the car still has to be started.

Anyone know about theft deterrent systems, or starter/fuel pump/ignition switch cutout systems?

I will check it out tomorrow. I hope I can bypass it and get the card started.

More to follow.

To change the hood release cable (old one frayed), I took off the driver's lower dash panel.

There I saw the "brain-box" and wiring for the anti-theft deterrent device.

I changed the cable and removed all extra wiring.

Now the hood release works and the car also started (with a jump).

I called the owner and delivered his car - the 1997 is gone to his home.

Here are pictures of my house and also the 1997 and my 1995 "Project Car".

I was thinking of painting the grille on the 1995 (white to match the car color).

Check the pictures in the previous post and let me know if that would be a good idea.

The 1997 has a white grille and the 1995 (now) has the gray grille.

Which one looks better??

The 1995 is not starting and I have to T/S starting system.

Maybe it has a theft-deterrent system?

There is a "clicking" sound when I turn the key.

The engine does not rotate.

Any ideas??

I tried cleaning all the connections and also all the grounds - still no start.

Tomorrow I will try to bypass the neutral safety switch and see if it starts.

More T/S required. More to follow.

Anybody know how to bypass the neutral safety switch or the starter relay to test the starter??

Anybody know how to bypass the neutral safety switch or the starter relay to test the starter??

how about a set of jumper cables directly from the battery.one spade terminal to make a "new" hot wire will work .loosen the old connection slide the spade under the terminal and tighten it up. one on the hot post on the starter , one on the negative. bypass all that crap. take off your terminals on the battery and use the new stuff so you done burn stuff up. use your kids amp wire from their trunk mounted amp and sub. or a chunk of #10 copper or larger. its just for a second or 2 anyway.

testing neutral safety switch

Check Neutral Safety Switch/Clutch Safety Switch. A neutral or clutch safety switch is used to disengage the electrical circuit from the ignition key to the starter motor as a safety device. Automatic transmission vehicle gear selector needs to be either in park or neutral before the engine will crank. If the gear selector is in any other gear sections the engine will not crank over. A standard transmission vehicle clutch peddle needs to be fully depressed before the engine will crank over. To test this circuit a automotive test light is needed. Attach one end of the test light to engine ground and the other end at the starter trigger terminal of the starter solenoid. The test light should illuminate when the ignition switch is activated (crank engine over). If the test light illuminates the starter motor/solenoid has failed and needs to be replaced. If the test light does not illuminate suspect a neutral safety switch or clutch safety switch. A wiring diagram is needed to trace power from the ignition switch through the safety switch and down to the starter solenoid. Replace failed components as needed and recheck system.

Good tips for bypassing the neutral safety switch or going directly to the starter.

I will give them a try tomorrow.

I have thought about doing both of them to test the system.

Does anyone know where the wire goes from the starter to the fuse box?

I have three engine wiring harnesses and I want to meter the connection from starter to fuse box.

The wiring schematic shows the wire going from the starter to the starter relay (plugs into the fuse box).

Updates will follow.

It was the battery.

I bought a new one, installed it and the car started right up.

I drove it to the gas station, filled it up and drove it around town for 6 miles and then back home.

It needs a little work, but at least it runs.

I have started installing speakers - back are in, front doors need installation.

Radio wires have to be spliced in.

Rear seats have been put back, need front seats installed.

Also needed is the washers for the power steering line - fluid has leaked out.

I have spray painted the grille the matching super white color.

I will take some more pictures and post them.

More to follow.

Factory speakers and radio installed (most parts from the local junkyard).

Washers put on power steering line, but might still be leaking.

Have to put bottom splash guards on, but car leaks a little - antifreeze, transmission fluid, and power steering fluid.

I will have to fix leaks first.

More to follow.