Custom 2001 Toyota Corolla S Turbo

Sorry, no pics above since BBCode seems broken on this forum.

I just found this site. My name is Jerry and I live in Duvall, WA and I have a 2001 Toyota Corolla S that is Turbo Charged and heavily modified. I'm currently recovering it after sitting for 8+ months because I blew an engine. It should be back on the road in a week or two.

Modifications

* Garret GT25R Dual BB Turbo

* Custom Cast Manifold

* Custom 2.5" IC Piping

* Front mounted intercooler

* SAAB Recirculating BOV

* Custom Intake (Working on a better one now)

* Custom Vaccum Manifold

* Apex AVC-R Boost Controller

* Greddy eManage Blue

* AlphaWerks 3" Catback Exhaust System

* Custom Downpipe

* Custom Midpipe

* PLX-300 Wideband O2

* Boost Guage

* AFR Guage

* Oil Pressure Guage

* Greddy Turbo Timer

* Racing Seats w/ Custom Brackets

* Custom CarPC w/ Indash Fiberglassed 7" Touch Screen

* OBD2 Interface (CarPC can read this while driving)

* Custom Xenon Projector Headlights (Reprofitted from Audi)

* 1500 WATT DC/AC Inverter

* H&R Suspension

* Cadnium Plated Slotted Rotors

* Kosei K1 16" Racing Wheels

* Toyo Proxies 4 Tires (7.5" wide)

Mods in Progress

* B&M Oil Cooler

* New Cold Air Intake (the one I built before sucks)

* Finishing Exhaust Mid-Pipe

* Installing Alpine Head Unit (Not too happy with just having internet radio though my cell phone on the CarPC)

Current Car State

The car has the exhaust mid pipe out because i'm working on it, once I reinstall the car will start, run and drive. However I will not be putting down more then 6 PSI of boost until it is tuned well. I was running 12 PSI when I blew my last engine (~250bhp).

Pictures (Some are old, some are new, just some random stuff of my car)

I'm impressed. I have a 2002 that I'm looking to do some serious mods on as well. Please provide more details as to where you got the turbo, and how much fabrication work it involved to make it work.

i was going to ask what blew until i saw the trophy, thats cute. just too much power for the rod to handle or did you just not have enough oil cushion between the bearing surfaces to prevent metal to metal, or was it metal to metal due to detonation that caused bearing failure which caused the big end to seize and rod to break?

Welcome to the board, Jerry.

Looks like black and red are your car's theme colors.

Welcome to the board, Jerry.Looks like black and red are your car's theme colors.

Yup, however I'm getting tired of all the Red so I'm going to go back to mostly black and only have red on the seats.

i was going to ask what blew until i saw the trophy, thats cute. just too much power for the rod to handle or did you just not have enough oil cushion between the bearing surfaces to prevent metal to metal, or was it metal to metal due to detonation that caused bearing failure which caused the big end to seize and rod to break?

Seeing how i broke 2 rods I would suspect that it was detonation that caused the failure. That being said the metal on metal was probably after the explosion since the motor ran for a few seconds before I shut it down. Probably beat the crap out of everything.

I just found this site. My name is Jerry and I live in Duvall, WA and I have a 2001 Toyota Corolla S that is Turbo Charged and heavily modified. I'm currently recovering it after sitting for 8+ months because I blew an engine. It should be back on the road in a week or two.

Modifications

* Garret GT25R Dual BB Turbo

* Custom Cast Manifold

* Custom 2.5" IC Piping

* Front mounted intercooler

* SAAB Recirculating BOV

* Custom Intake (Working on a better one now)

* Custom Vaccum Manifold

* Apex AVC-R Boost Controller

* Greddy eManage Blue

* AlphaWerks 3" Catback Exhaust System

* Custom Downpipe

* Custom Midpipe

* PLX-300 Wideband O2

* Boost Guage

* AFR Guage

* Oil Pressure Guage

* Greddy Turbo Timer

* Racing Seats w/ Custom Brackets

* Custom CarPC w/ Indash Fiberglassed 7" Touch Screen

* OBD2 Interface (CarPC can read this while driving)

* Custom Xenon Projector Headlights (Reprofitted from Audi)

* 1500 WATT DC/AC Inverter

* H&R Suspension

* Cadnium Plated Slotted Rotors

* Kosei K1 16" Racing Wheels

* Toyo Proxies 4 Tires (7.5" wide)

Mods in Progress

* B&M Oil Cooler

* New Cold Air Intake (the one I built before sucks)

* Finishing Exhaust Mid-Pipe

* Installing Alpine Head Unit (Not too happy with just having internet radio though my cell phone on the CarPC)

Current Car State

The car has the exhaust mid pipe out because i'm working on it, once I reinstall the car will start, run and drive. However I will not be putting down more then 6 PSI of boost until it is tuned well. I was running 12 PSI when I blew my last engine (~250bhp).

Pictures (Some are old, some are new, just some random stuff of my car)

 

I'm impressed. I have a 2002 that I'm looking to do some serious mods on as well. Please provide more details as to where you got the turbo, and how much fabrication work it involved to make it work.

I got the kit from TurboKits.com, they no longer sell it because the kit was an absolute washout and required 3 weeks of R&D and modification to make it work. The kit to this day is still sold by TSI but I wouldn't trust that company as far as I could throw them. The only peice in the kit I was able to use was the log manifold for the 1zz-fe and the turbo itself, and even then I had to modify my heatercore to angle the hoses comming out of the firewall at a 45° angle to get the turbo to clear.

Are you planning on building it up to race??

i was going to ask what blew until i saw the trophy, thats cute. just too much power for the rod to handle or did you just not have enough oil cushion between the bearing surfaces to prevent metal to metal, or was it metal to metal due to detonation that caused bearing failure which caused the big end to seize and rod to break?

Seeing how i broke 2 rods I would suspect that it was detonation that caused the failure. That being said the metal on metal was probably after the explosion since the motor ran for a few seconds before I shut it down. Probably beat the crap out of everything.

a buddy of mine in california has a 2000 eclipse that was at one time a 4G64, he managed to crack the head on it in a few spots from some det he had going on due to an unknown lack of timing control from the emanage piggyback he was using. now he's running an aem ems and swapped to an Evo head, he should have it back on the road, it was down because his manifold cracked again and the T3/T4 was spooling too fast, he had no traction at all. his solution was to get a GT38RBB so he'd have a little turbo lag

i was going to ask what blew until i saw the trophy, thats cute. just too much power for the rod to handle or did you just not have enough oil cushion between the bearing surfaces to prevent metal to metal, or was it metal to metal due to detonation that caused bearing failure which caused the big end to seize and rod to break?

Seeing how i broke 2 rods I would suspect that it was detonation that caused the failure. That being said the metal on metal was probably after the explosion since the motor ran for a few seconds before I shut it down. Probably beat the crap out of everything.

If the rods failed, it was probably too much power for them. Knock causes burnt piston rings and nasty looking pistons, melted looking even. You most likely made too much power and put more stress on the rods then their tensile strength was capable of.

If you want to build a Corolla that fast, find out how strong the crank is, then build on that. New rods, pistons, the works. Just choose the right compression for your build.

nah, detonation will eliminate the oil film between bearings. that sudden hammering shock exceeds the oils film strength and you get metal to metal contact. if that happens enough then you get a bearing that wont be smooth, wont hold the oil film correctly, and so next time theres a knock event and you loose the oil film its all over with. most of the load on a rod is push pull, along its strongest part, when they fail from too much power they dont usually twist up the big end cap like that, they usually just bend in the middle a little and you get one or 2 cylinders that have low compression and an engine thats hard to turn over.

i was going to ask what blew until i saw the trophy, thats cute. just too much power for the rod to handle or did you just not have enough oil cushion between the bearing surfaces to prevent metal to metal, or was it metal to metal due to detonation that caused bearing failure which caused the big end to seize and rod to break?

Seeing how i broke 2 rods I would suspect that it was detonation that caused the failure. That being said the metal on metal was probably after the explosion since the motor ran for a few seconds before I shut it down. Probably beat the crap out of everything.

If the rods failed, it was probably too much power for them. Knock causes burnt piston rings and nasty looking pistons, melted looking even. You most likely made too much power and put more stress on the rods then their tensile strength was capable of.

If you want to build a Corolla that fast, find out how strong the crank is, then build on that. New rods, pistons, the works. Just choose the right compression for your build.

Definitely stronger connecting rods and oversize pistons as well as better bearings and seals.

Too much power is not a problem if components are matched to the task.

i was going to ask what blew until i saw the trophy, thats cute. just too much power for the rod to handle or did you just not have enough oil cushion between the bearing surfaces to prevent metal to metal, or was it metal to metal due to detonation that caused bearing failure which caused the big end to seize and rod to break?

Seeing how i broke 2 rods I would suspect that it was detonation that caused the failure. That being said the metal on metal was probably after the explosion since the motor ran for a few seconds before I shut it down. Probably beat the crap out of everything.

If the rods failed, it was probably too much power for them. Knock causes burnt piston rings and nasty looking pistons, melted looking even. You most likely made too much power and put more stress on the rods then their tensile strength was capable of.

If you want to build a Corolla that fast, find out how strong the crank is, then build on that. New rods, pistons, the works. Just choose the right compression for your build.

Don't forget a really built car will have a stronger crank than stock and will have bored out cylinder heads and higher compression.

 

Definitely stronger connecting rods and oversize pistons as well as better bearings and seals.

Too much power is not a problem if components are matched to the task.

A new crank isn't always needed. One might not even be available for the corolla. New pistons should be lower compression for a turbo application. Overbore is a option, and is usually only used to get even sized bores on a repaired block. Most people get more displacement from a longer crank stroke. Not really needed when making power from a turbo. All bearings, rods, and new pistons should do the trick. Might hold up till about 300HP or so. If a new crank really is needed, these guys might be able to make one. http://www.eaglerod.com/

From the list of mods I saw, I'd still guess too much power took out a rod. If the owner isn't sure, maybe he could have someone look at the engine and find out if a oil starvation was the problem. Pics would be interesting for sure.

Pictures would definitely be interesting.