Replacing Rack And Wheel Bearings - Corolland: the Toyota Corolla Forums

Guest The Dom

If some remember I had a problem with front and rear noise.

Found out today rear end the wheel bearings are shot.

How hard are they to replace?

Also Front end the noise is from the right steering rack.

Again how hard are they to replace?

Also its an '89 corolla seca 4AGE. I have had a problem with the A/C running the car stalls when the car is allowed to drop back with no accelerator from about 3000rpm. EG. coasting out of gear up to a set of lights. What could cause this??

My brother thinks it could be the piping from the air filter box to the throttle body. It appears to be taped and could be leaking. Would this produce a problem with idle speed and coping with the added load of A/C??

Thanks for your help.

Depends on your definition of "hard" - but can be done in a day. If this is the first time working on a vehicle like this - I'd allow for some extra time - weekend? Since there is bound to be other parts that you need to complete the job or have damaged in the process - like striped or broken bolts, studs, nuts, etc.

A leaky intake pipe will give your those symptoms - an extra air coming in without being read by the AFM sensor (early 89) or MAP sensor (89+) will result in an overly lean condition. Usually resulting in stumbling, stalling, etc. Could also have something to do with the 4AGE TVIS system or an obstruction in the exhaust system.

Good Luck.

Guest The Dom

Might sound like a real noob here but what is the 4AGE TVIS system??

I checked out the cost of the intake pipe $147. What other things could be causing the problem with idle?

When I told the mechanic last service he adjusted a screw on the passenger side right at the back of engine bay. Its still doing what it used to but it is now bouncing around 1100-2000 instead of 0-1100? A quick fix solution it seems.

Could I wrap 100mph tape around the pipe to stop the leaks? See if that fixs the problem.

Also I got the tie rod end yesterday arvo, might be installing it tonight I'll let you guys know how it goes.

Thanks.

The TVIS is the Toyota Variable Induction System - this was part of the intake system for the 4AGE "big-port" engines (first half of 1989 and earlier). This was later removed on the 4AGE "small-port" variants (second half or 1989 and later).

Sounds like the mechanic adjusted the idle speed - but a shift in the problem to a different RPM band is very interesting. Could be an issue with the ignition system or emmission related component.

Wrapping tape would be OK for a quick fix - at least that will tell you if the intake was the problem.

Good Luck.

Guest The Dom

The mechanic said he adjusted the idle speed. IT was mainly to stop it stalling, until I could get to the bottom of the problem.

Last night I wrapped some duct tape around it and the problem appears to be solved. Even from about 4.5k rpm it drops and stops bang on 1000 rpm. See how long it lasts.

Mine is a 12/89 model so that would be a 'Small-port' variant so do I have an issue there?

No issue with TVIS - nice that you got the small-port, as they tend to be more powerful and a bit stronger on the bottom end than the big port models. Sounds like duct tape saves the day again.

Guest The Dom

Ok the mechanic said he adjusted the idle speed by turning a white plastic screw on the back of the engine bay on the passenger side.

I've since re-adjusted this to get it to idle at the correct speed, but it when coming from revs it will go to 1000 rpm then come back up to about 1250-1300 rpm then drop back down to 950 rpm after about 20 seconds. Could this be fixed by adjusting that screw?

Does anyone know what that screw does? I seem to have had some success with adjusting it but wonder if this is the cause of the problem or just a way of delaying it.

Thanks for all your help so far.

I assume the car is EFI? It may take some time for the ECU to compensate for the idle - may have to reset the ECU by pulling the ECU fuse or disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. The throttle could also be hung up somewhere or throttle body is gummed up - giving you the bouncing behavior. An air or vacuum leak will do this as well.

These are two good sites for info and help on the 4AGE variants:

www.clug4ag.com

www.4age.net

Good Luck

Guest The Dom

From the air box to the throttle body I'm pretty sure there are no air leaks there. How would a gummed up throttle body be looked at or fixed?

You would have to take off the intake pipe and look at the throttle body from there. What you want to check and clean is the butterfly (throttle plate) inside and right behind it. Not sure if your engine is equipped with it. some 4AGE variants have individual throttle plates in the intake runners (TVIS and non-TVIS). Those may need to cleaned as well. If there is any carbon build up or deposits on them - they will not allow the air to enter as efficiently as it could - this could cause some of the surging and stumbling you see. Most solvents can be used - better to use ones that specifically say throttle body cleaners. Other can be used - but you have to make sure that they don't eat rubber parts and harm the O2 sensor.

Guest The Dom

Hey Fishexpo

I've been told to remove the blue plug from the intake pipe. Which I did and it seems to have fixed the problem. Its the ACV sensor. What does that do??

Unplugging it seems to have helped. Whats it used for when its plugged in and do I have any dramas with it unplugged.

ACV sensor? Do you mean the Vacuum switching Valve (VSV)? Sometimes they call the blue or black VSV valve a ACV sensor.

The VSV (ACV) unit is an electrical idle-up component. It supposed to bump up the idle anytime a heavy electrical load is put on the engine, ie. A/C, exterior lighting, radiator fan, etc.

I remember the 4AGE having two separate VSV units - the one in/near the intake and one tied to the A/C. Since removing the sensor helped - this points to a vacuum leak somewhere in the system. Could be kind if hard to pin down - cracked hoses, leaky fittings, and bad sensors are just some of the possible problems.

Running without one will not damage the engine - but it is a temporary solution to the problem. One of the things that might happen is that the engine may stall or surge with heavy load on the engine. You can test it at idle by running the A/C or turning on the lights. If the idle speeds up - you are OK. If the car stalls or surges - then you know that the fix is only temporary.

Good Luck.

Guest The Dom

Sorry it is called the ACV Connector.

In the manual I have the VSV is mentioned with the Idle-up System. but the plug looks different and doesn't go to what appears to be the location that the VSV in the diagrams do.

I found the VSV sensor and its not the plug I pulled this one however is connected to a vacumn line also.

Post more when I get home but now I'm running late for school.

I totally forgot about that - IACV (Idle Air Control Valve, SAE term.) - part of the ISC (Idle Speed Control, Toyota term.) system on the engine. That is a plug that goes either in the intake or in the throttle body and controls the amount of air bypass past a closed throttle plate.

There is a diagnostic mode where you can leave everything connected and ground a TE1 circuit in the diagnostic port near the front strut. That will disable the ISC circuits from functioning to see if they are giving you a problem. A similar test will also check the condition of the O2 sensor and see if the feedback circuit is operating correctly.

You should be able to find decent documentation of these diagnostic test on-line and in the service manual. This may lead you in the right direction pinning down that vacuum leak or something else.

This also affected many MR2s as well - might be able to look at sites that cater to them for additional info.

Good Luck.