2000 Corolla Stalls

Idle Air Control valve need to be cleaned?

Water in the gas due to condensation?

Vince,

What maintenances have been done recently, such as tuneup etc?

Many valid suggestions have been offered so far. It could be a flakey coolant temperature switch also.

I'd start with basic ignition components, filters and PCV if they haven't been maintained rather than replacing expensive sensors etc initially.

Good luck,

Jay in MA

occasionally on cold starts my 2000 automatic corolla ve will completly lose all power and it'll sputter and buck and even stall. it usually happens in the morning when i start the car for the first time that day. it only happens once in a while not nearlly often enough to bother me much but id still like to know what causes this problem so that i can fix it. the car has 100,000 kms and has always been well maintained. I would be gratefull if someone could give me some ideas as to what it could be.

Could be a number of things causing that - do you notice it happen more often only on colder days (cooler ambient temperature), or just seems to be limited to the first start after the car has sit for some time? Does it ever happen if the car is still hot/warm? Pretty hard to pinpoint an issue like this, unless the check engine lamp has been triggered during this issue. A car with 100,000km, 2000 model year - I would consider low mileage - listed below would be the most likely problem areas.

Could be anything from a problem with a coil on plug igniter, to PCV, vacuum issue, MAF/IAT sensor in air box, the previously mentioned IAC valve, dirty or gummed up throttlebody, leak in intake system, sparkplug issue (gap, worn), intermittent connection to ECT sensor, intermittent chassis ground (fuel injection system very sensitive to electrical noise), dirty injectors, previously mentioned water/moisture in the gas (add gas dryer), and more.

 

it tends to only happen when the car is cold and has been sitting for a while, never when its warmed up, and it never triggers a check engine light.

it tends to only happen when the car is cold and has been sitting for a while, never when its warmed up, and it never triggers a check engine light.

Is it fine until you press the accelerator pedal?

 

If that is when it is dying on you, then it is your IAC.

I had the exact problem for 2 years on my 2000 VE. When the car was in warranty they replaced the charcol canister from the fuel tank. After 3 years and well out of warranty the check engine light came on. I lived with it for a wile, hesitation on cold starts, if the car colled for 20 minutes it hesitated until warm. I found the technical bulleting from toyota an the problem is the MAS/F sensor. I order it from autozone and replaced. My CAR RUNS LIKE NEW AGAIN:) NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT!

Read Below:

**Occasional problems on this vehicle are failures of the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor and the Canister Closed Vacuum Switching Valve or Pressure Sensor Vacuum Switching Valve. Failure of the MAF Sensor and the Canister Closed Vacuum Switching Valve or the Pressure Sensor Vacuum Switching Valve can cause the check engine light to illuminate. On some vehicles the MAF Sensor can be cleaned and will not need to be replaced. The cost to replace the Canister Closed Vacuum Switching Valve is estimated at $44.18 for parts and $45.50 for labor. The cost to replace the Pressure Sensor Vacuum Switching Valve is estimated at $75.68 for parts and $65.00 for labor. The cost to replace the MAF Sensor is estimated at $151.10 for parts and $58.50 for labor. All prices are estimates based on $65 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable sales tax.**

AUTOZONE INFO:

http://www.autozone.com/

CARDONE MASS & VANE MASS AIR FLOW PART #74-50010 1 $65.00-CORE + $71.99 = $136.99

Sounds like a bad MAF sensor.