Killed My Engine?

Needing to add three pints of oil (1.5 quarts) - doesn't mean that the engine is ruined. Some cars with higher mileage will run through a quart every 3K-5K miles - sometimes more.

But a pint with every tank of gas is starting to get up there. Good thing that you got your compression checked - that will give you a baseline to reference from and tell you what you will be looking at.

Whenever you do a compression test - it would be a good idea to check each cylinder over 4-5 compression cycles. The max pressure should be reached within the first or second cycle. You shouldn't see any "pumping" up behavior - ex. (in PSI) 50, 70, 90, 110, 130 - should be like 90, 130, 128, 132, 131.

The cylinders can vary as much as 10PSI - 15PSI between them. If some cylinders are consistently low - shot some oil in there and recheck. If the compression improves - you're probably looking at worn piston rings. If the compression doesn't change - then probably worn valve guides. Some cylinders would read high if there are carbon deposits or head surfacing.

A low compression will also indicate a warped cylinder head or if two adjacent cylinders are low - that could indicate a blown head gasket. Engine should be warmed up and charging system should be in good shape to properly test compression.

What to do know? It does sound like that you may be looking to a rebuild soon - a quart every 1000 miles is high. If you don't want to spend the money to get a rebuild or the time to do an engine swap - additives like Motor Honey, STP Motor treatment, etc - they are a last resort type of thing, but can keep the engine going if the oil consumption gets really bad.

Just rememeber - additive won't fix anything - they just cover them up for a while.

But you don't have to throw in the towel 0 just yet. Check and do the simple stuff first - make sure that the PCV valve is clean and working, switch to a heavier weight oil, or try a different brand of oil. Chances are - you can keep motoring on and keep topping off the oil. Otherwise - save up for a rebuild or replacement car.

Good Luck.

No problem. I've gone through this myself years ago.

To do a compression test - make sure that car is fully warmed up and battery fully charged. Get a compression tester - something that looks like a large tire pressure gauge and has a hose that terminates with an end that has threads. The threaded end will screw in where the spark plug usually goes. Some compression testers have a rubber plug on the end instead - but won't really work well with your deep location of the plugs.

Pull the plugs - you can disconnect the fuel line as well (not necessary) - screw in the tester. Have someone crank the engine (turn ignition key) for four or five cycles and note the pressure on the gauge. Maximum pressure if what you are after - but how it gets there is important as well.

If a cylinder is consistently low - just take an oil squirter or a squirt bottle and squirt regular motor oil in there - just a little bit, a teaspoon to a half a tablespoon. Seems to work best with straight 30 weight oil - but the stuff that you use normally will work just as well.

Pennzoil 10w30 is fine. Those high mileage oils may work - but may also cause problems under certain conditions, since a few are really repackaged synthetic blends. A 10w40 probably won't make much of a difference - 20w50 are too heavy for most 4 cylinder motors in moderate temperature areas. Just keep up with the oil changes.

Good Luck.