2000-2002 Forced Induction - Toyota Corolla, Chevy Prizm (1998-2008)

Does anybody know of any forced induction kits for the vvt-i 1zzfe on the 2000-2002 toyota corollas?

There are kits out there - just that they don't work. The best solution is completely custom setup or let a speed shop do it for you - you will end up paying about the same anyway.

There are kits out there - just that they don't work. The best solution is completely custom setup or let a speed shop do it for you - you will end up paying about the same anyway.

If a kit runs about 3grand, will labor be about the same price? Do you need to get a new fuel pump, larger cc injectors, and ecu on top of getting a turbo kit?

On most of the available turbo kits - they run between the $2K and $3K mark - fixing the problems with the kit runs about the same amount as the kit itself + you have to have it tuned to your car. You could easily spend $5K-$7K to do it right. You could shave a few grand and tune it blind - but only if you don't mind replacing the entire engine if a rod blows through the block. Like they say - you can pay now or pay later. The reason why is the 1ZZ-FE is already so optimized as is - there is not much you can do with bolt-ons that would make much of a power boost compared to some other cars.

As for upgraded fuel pump, injectors, ECU - depends on what you are after power -wise. You have to match the amount of fuel to the size of the turbo and power band you want. Example - the TRD S/C for 9th gen Corollas use the stock fuel pump with stock injectors (adds a 5th injector in S/C to pulse at WOT) and a piggyback computer to OEM ECU - that is for 6-7PSI of boost on a carefully calibrated system.

For most turbo projects - even smaller turbos (like a Garrett T28) - will probably require a bigger fuel pump, slightly larger injectors for safety, and must use some type of engine management. You shouldn't even attempt to run any forced induction project without engine management - like eManage or similar. That would be a sure fire way to literally blow-up a project quickly. If you look at most kits - they include injectors and possibly a fuel pump - but many do not include engine management or throw in a simple "black box" - all recipes for problems down the road. Even if they made it correctly for the 1ZZ-FE - you still need to get it tuned. At the very minimum - wideband O2 sensor to see what your A/F ratios are doing BEFORE you turbo. And the tune will be different from car to car - so getting maps from one person is no guarantee for safe operation on someone elses ride (I've seen that too many times).

Bikeman982

Sounds like too much trouble to me. I would recommend getting another car that can be altered for greater performance.

On most of the available turbo kits - they run between the $2K and $3K mark - fixing the problems with the kit runs about the same amount as the kit itself + you have to have it tuned to your car. You could easily spend $5K-$7K to do it right. You could shave a few grand and tune it blind - but only if you don't mind replacing the entire engine if a rod blows through the block. Like they say - you can pay now or pay later. The reason why is the 1ZZ-FE is already so optimized as is - there is not much you can do with bolt-ons that would make much of a power boost compared to some other cars.
As for upgraded fuel pump, injectors, ECU - depends on what you are after power -wise. You have to match the amount of fuel to the size of the turbo and power band you want. Example - the TRD S/C for 9th gen Corollas use the stock fuel pump with stock injectors (adds a 5th injector in S/C to pulse at WOT) and a piggyback computer to OEM ECU - that is for 6-7PSI of boost on a carefully calibrated system.
For most turbo projects - even smaller turbos (like a Garrett T28) - will probably require a bigger fuel pump, slightly larger injectors for safety, and must use some type of engine management. You shouldn't even attempt to run any forced induction project without engine management - like eManage or similar. That would be a sure fire way to literally blow-up a project quickly. If you look at most kits - they include injectors and possibly a fuel pump - but many do not include engine management or throw in a simple "black box" - all recipes for problems down the road. Even if they made it correctly for the 1ZZ-FE - you still need to get it tuned. At the very minimum - wideband O2 sensor to see what your A/F ratios are doing BEFORE you turbo. And the tune will be different from car to car - so getting maps from one person is no guarantee for safe operation on someone elses ride (I've seen that too many times).

Damn....

If the 1zzfe is so well opitmized, how is it that modern corollas have more power and keep the fuel economy the same?

Damn....If the 1zzfe is so well opitmized, how is it that modern corollas have more power and keep the fuel economy the same?

They added several things to optimize it even further. VVT-i in 2000+ Corollas for an extra 5HP and composite intake runners, revised cams, and reprogrammed ECM for another 5HP for 2003+ Corollas (actually power went up but lost some mid-range torque compared to the early 1ZZ-FE). Weight went up with the 9th gen - but better aero management and design produced a larger car with better aerodynamics than the 8th gen Corolla. Mileage stayed the same or even better in some cases because of changes to the transmission gearing and fluid type for autos (revised bearings and syncros for the manual ones) coupled with the aero tweaks - negated the heavier, larger body.

Bikeman982

Damn....
If the 1zzfe is so well opitmized, how is it that modern corollas have more power and keep the fuel economy the same?
They added several things to optimize it even further. VVT-i in 2000+ Corollas for an extra 5HP and composite intake runners, revised cams, and reprogrammed ECM for another 5HP for 2003+ Corollas (actually power went up but lost some mid-range torque compared to the early 1ZZ-FE). Weight went up with the 9th gen - but better aero management and design produced a larger car with better aerodynamics than the 8th gen Corolla. Mileage stayed the same or even better in some cases because of changes to the transmission gearing and fluid type for autos (revised bearings and syncros for the manual ones) coupled with the aero tweaks - negated the heavier, larger body.

Not to mention the price!!

Damn....
If the 1zzfe is so well opitmized, how is it that modern corollas have more power and keep the fuel economy the same?
They added several things to optimize it even further. VVT-i in 2000+ Corollas for an extra 5HP and composite intake runners, revised cams, and reprogrammed ECM for another 5HP for 2003+ Corollas (actually power went up but lost some mid-range torque compared to the early 1ZZ-FE). Weight went up with the 9th gen - but better aero management and design produced a larger car with better aerodynamics than the 8th gen Corolla. Mileage stayed the same or even better in some cases because of changes to the transmission gearing and fluid type for autos (revised bearings and syncros for the manual ones) coupled with the aero tweaks - negated the heavier, larger body.

According to internetautoguide, the corolla still has the same drag coefficient of the 98's .31 and the 03's .30

Bikeman982

According to internetautoguide, the corolla still has the same drag coefficient of the 98's .31 and the 03's .30
Can't just go by numbers - as it only shows one aspect. Even so, the show exactly what I said earlier - the 8th gen have a little more drag than the 9th gen, even though the 9th gen are slightly bigger. Not just in the numbers - just take a look at teh bottom of a 9th gen vs the 8th gen - 9th gen looks pretty flat (not a lot of stuff hanging down, places to disrupt air flow).

Not to mention the price!!
Not a whole lot people can do about that. As they add more safety related equipment, refinement, and performance - the price will naturally go up. Not to mention the growing cost of living. When my son gets out of college - I wouldn't be surprised if the cost of an new "economy" car will set you back $30K. Hopefully, I can keep my current cars running that long - as long as they keep passing inspection and still safe to drive, they will make an excellent starting car for him.

My method is to purchase used cars. As soon as you drive it off the dealer's lot a new car has already depreciated. Why not get it cheaper by buying used and do as you suggests - maintain it longer and keep it for a while.