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1997 Ae101 Electrical Issue

by Ticked_off, June 29, 2006 in Pre-1997 Toyota Corolla and Geo Prizm



Ticked_off

I seem to be having a series of problems related to the driver's side junction box that is affecting the stereo, clock, and oddly enough the key and seatbelt buzzers.

Upon examining the electrical diagrams I've determined that it may have something to do with the vehicle's "Integration Relay" as the problem is not affecting the cigarette lighter which is connected in parallel through the bus across the IR. All 3 of the other symptoms show tie in through the IR, hence my suspicion of this part.

This all began yesterday when I attempted to remove my Sirius tuner module for warranty service. After removing the module, I attempted to reinstall the headunit back into the dash. As I customarily do when reinstalling the HU, I turned the keyswitch on to make sure that the system was powered before buttoning up the console. The stereo would not power up and the digital clock would not function either.

Today I realized that both the seatbelt indicators (both visual and audio) as well as the key reminder buzzer were not functional. All other functions seem to be fine, but it seems everything running off the CIG-RAD fuse section (aside from the cigarette lighter) is dead. I checked the fuse and it seems to be fine. I did do a brief continuity check through the aftermarket and OEM harnesses and connections. There don't appear to be any shorts ahead of the main Instrument panel harness behind the cluster. I didn't want to get too deep into the diagram, nor the fuse blocks themselves until I ran this by some more folks for feedback.

Has anyone ever heard of a sectional failure of the Integration Relay affecting only one section of the fuse bus?

Does anyone know how much something like is going to cost to replace since it would seem the IR and fuse bus are one continuous unit?

Is it possible that this can be attributed to something simpler than the above mentioned hypothesis?

Thanks for your help!

Ticked_off

A bit of an update....

I ran a few voltage tests across the harnesses of both the stereo and clock.

It seems I'm getting 12V across the ACC terminals, and about 12V on the hot lead and about half a volt +/- 0.15V on the accessory (memory) terminal when the ignition switch is cycled. Continuity checks out on the accessory harness and resistance across the splices is nominal.

Thoughts?

Bikeman982

Electrical problems can be difficult, especially when a lot of it is behind the dash. The wiring is usually all taped up and hard to access. My suggestion is to look for another bad fuse and/or change the IR.

I have a 1994 that I am currently changing the main electrical harness for the engine and it ties in to the main fuse box. Most internal wiring runs thru the inside fuse panels and that is likely where you will find the source of your problem.

I read that you are checking the schematic and that will be helpful. If all else fails try disconnecting what you have connected recently and return it to the original configuration. If the problem goes away then your added item is the cause. If it still is present then you have a short or blown fuse somewhere. Keep up the troubleshooting - you will eventually find the cause.

Ticked_off

PROBLEM SOLVED

I never thought to look inside the engine bay fuse boxes. Inside the driver side relay box is the 20A dome fuse...blown to smithereens. Swapped in a new fuse and it's looking good as new.

Thanks.

Bikeman982

PROBLEM SOLVED

I never thought to look inside the engine bay fuse boxes. Inside the driver side relay box is the 20A dome fuse...blown to smithereens. Swapped in a new fuse and it's looking good as new.

Thanks.

Thats great to hear that your problem is fixed.

I did mention the engine fuse box, but didn't realize that was where your blown fuse was located.

Great help and info for anyone having some similar problem.



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