Bad Rings - 2001 Toylet (prizm) - Toyota Corolla, Chevy Prizm (1998-2008)

Hi.. I'm new to the forums, and I've got an 01 Prizm that's been burning oil for a good 20k - I had a problem driving down the highway the other day - felt like the engine was flooding - after a few miles the problem went away. I took it to a dealer and had them read the plugs & computer. Anyways, they said I've got oil blowing past the rings in all 4 cylinders.. The service manager said the rings in this engine can't be replaced and eliminate the oil blowby.. is he as full of snip as I think he is? I know the cylinders are typical cast iron sleeve types..

Also, what piston/ring kits does everyone reccomend, I don't push it hard or race or anything.. I just want a daily driver that's fun to drive. What breakin procedure?

Thanks guys

Brian

They got the diagnosis of oil being pulled past the rings from just reading the plugs and scanning the computer - they are either really good of full if it.

Not sure if the service manager know anything about basic engine design as well - from the sound of it. You are correct - the 1ZZ-FE engine is an open deck, sleeved (cast iron sleeves) design, that are cast directly into the alloy block. If the liners are shot - you will have to get those machined out and get new ones pressed in.

http://monkeywrenchracing.com is a good resource for our engines - lots of good aftermarket compenents and brands. They have a pretty decent set of Wiesco for a decent price. Break-in will vary with the type of hone on the cylinder, piston clearance/type, and types of rings. Most will get a good break-in with 500 miles on the clock with mixed RPMs with speed keep under 50MPH after the rebuild. Some advocate the speed break in - but probably only works if you have access to a dyno and used under controlled conditions. Info here - http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm.

Thanks for the heads up! I'll call my mechanic tommorow and talk greenbacks, see if I can't run over and do some compression tests.. It's been burning a quart of oil every 80 miles or so lately.. no smoke apparent at startup or while driving.. Engine's noisy at startup too, kind of a grindy/clicking sound..

Another question: when we do open up the motor, what else should I be replacing at the same time? I want to keep it as cheap as possible - are those Wiseco pistons the way to go? $560 seems pretty steep for a car that's a daily driver.. or is it actually a good deal, with what's included? Should I do main bearings at the same time? Rod bearings? Will I need to do the top end right away, or can I wait and see? Is it worth it, a good idea, or a bad idea to go with the 82mm bore kit?

Is it possible my rings are stuck, or my PCV valve is causing the problem? My daily drive is about 5 city miles (I run it long enough to bring it to fully warmed up) and then once a week I drive 150 miles (each way) to canada.. I stop before the border (80 miles) and gas up, check the oil and it's always .8-1.2 qt low... my mileage, around 38-39MPG when I got the car (48k) is now 24mpg or less! highway mileage..

thanks

If you search the forum, stuck piston rings is a problem that has occurred on 98-02 corollas. Happened to my 2000 corolla and was fixed under warranty. My dealer replaced the rings.

sv11

friendly_jacek

another thing to consider is the fact that if the rings are only stuck and not broken, you can unstack them by gentle cleaning with high detergent oil (like heavy duty diesel oil) and/or gentle cleaning agents (people use autoRX for this).

another thing to consider is the fact that if the rings are only stuck and not broken, you can unstack them by gentle cleaning with high detergent oil (like heavy duty diesel oil) and/or gentle cleaning agents (people use autoRX for this).

How can you tell the difference? I got a quote from a reliable mechanic to replace my rings, and put in a new head gasket for $750 (labor).. is that decent? I'm thinking of doing it myself.. My dad is of the opinion I should look for a use JDM motor - is that a good idea, or a bad idea? I'm worried a replacement motor will have the same problem.

Only way to tell is try and "unstick" them with a solvent and compression test them. If the compression returns, then it was stuck rings - if it does not, then you are looking at broken rings, broken ring lands (piston), leaky valve seals, or severly scored cylinder walls.

JDM motors are popular - most of the time has design differences that make them desirable. Also keep in mind that most of these engines are setup for Japanese fuel regulations (emissions, fuel qaulity, octane requirements). That basically means that you are not able to register the vehicle, pass inspection, or pass emissions (varys from state to state, country to country). Generally replacing a motor with a newer one is premitted - but you will have to check with local laws.