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Brendon

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About Brendon

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  • Birthday 11/28/1985
  1. I wouldn't bother with forced induction on cars not designed for them. Unless your running a very low psi boost, the amount of money required to invest would be rediculous. A high boost puts a lot of strain on the transmission, the gaskets, liners, etc. You also got to consider fabricating an intercooler and remapping the electronic components if your supercharger doesn't come with an interface designed for the 8th gen Corolla. Of course, you could always run a low boost like the 03-04 Corolla TRD superchargers did (only 7.5 lbs boost) an avoid the worries of excessive strain to the tranny and engine. You may or may not need an intercooler. The problem is that with that meager amount of boost, don't expect your engine to put out much more than 160 HP. You might as well take the $3000 for the S/C kit and swap in an XRS engine.
  2. I've gotten my 98' Corolla passed the speedometer (120 MPH) before. Between 75-90 mph, the steering wheel vibrates and shakes annoyingly. Passed 90, the steering smooths out, but by that point it feels like a light breeze could flip the car over. I recently purchased a 97' Lexus SC400, which is a heavy RWD sports car. It can get passed 120 with ease; no shaking or instability. I've gotten it to 125 before traffic stopped me. Its electronically limited to 149 MPH, but I've read if you remove the limiter, it can go passed the speedometer (160 mph).
  3. KBB and NADA are more for a point of reference, not to be taken as the exact amount you would get. It really depends on the dealership, the car's condition/demand, and what type of deal you strike. A while back, I was looking to trade my Corolla into a Nissan dealership which had recently gotten in a Lexus SC300 (the car I absolutely love). At first, they were only going to give me $3500 for my car, even though KBB listed it at $4400 trade-in at the time for good condition. When I backed out of the deal, they started offering me more incentives, such as higher trade-in or a lower sticker price. It all really depends on how much you push the dealer. Usually they will try and start you off with a low-ball price to catch the suckers who don't know how to negotiate. From there, you can either work on the trade-in price, or work on the sticker price.
  4. Mpg Averages

    (don't take this personally 99contour) I don't mind the Solara, but my opinion its become sort of a middle-aged sports car. A mid-sized coupe should appeal to the yuppie age group (post-college to 30s). The Solara's primary competition, the Accord coupe, is maintaining this very well. I have my doubts about the Solara's future. From what I've read, it sounds like its going to get the axe by the end of 08'. That's probably why Toyota hasn't upgraded it to the 3.5 2GR-FE. It shouldn't surprise me; Toyota has completely lost its touch with the sports market with all the deaths on its hands (Supra, Celica, MR2, Corolla coupe).
  5. Even compared to 2008, the upcoming 2009 models have lost 1 MPG city and several highway. It's because the Corolla's gotten much porkier. Curb weight is expected to increase by roughly 200 lbs. It's also gotten over 2 inches wider so CdA has increased which would explain the impact on highway MPG.
  6. It's probably relatively easy to put an 02' front on, just changing panels. Now the real challenge would be to give it the 98-02 rear. It's not entirely impossible. I've seen some VERY impressive hack jobs. Check out this one: http://www.6gc.net/photo/member/427/7 If it wasn't for the quarter window, it would look just like the Supra.
  7. Hey Guys...!

    My sister convinced me to sign up once. I just kept getting a flood of about 100 people sending friend requests. It was absolutely annoying; worse than an e-mail account. There are so many fake myspace accounts (pedifile predators, spammers, etc) that its just not worth it anymore.
  8. Driving faster than 110 kph wont really harm your car, just reduce fuel efficiency. Wear-and-tear has more to do with how fast your engine is running at the crank (revolutions per minute). With an manual tranny, its possible to drive at a lower gear and keep your engine running in a dangerously high rpm. With an automatic, you much less likely to destroy the engine, especially since Toyota is known for being overly conservative with its shifting on auto trannys. My 98' Corolla 4-spd is almost the same as yours (same engine and tranny, but no vvt-i on mine). At 110 kph (about 68 mph) my car usually settles at about 2100 rpm. Normally I drive at 60-65 mph (97-105 kph) on the highways because its the most fuel efficient speed. One time I was in a rush to my sister's house and I was cruising at about 85 mph (137 kph). Even at that speed, my car didn't go over 2500 rpm, though I'm sure my fuel efficiency was probably half as good though. Th engine doesn't start to get loud until you pass 3000 rpms. By that point, I'm going well over 90 mph (145 kph).
  9. $55 each sounds a bit expensive for steels, you might as well get some cheap alloys. Sport edition sells 15" ones for only $75 each. I would stay clear of eBay. Unless you find a seller who is close by and you can pick up the wheels, its going to be VERY expensive to ship four 25 lbs wheels.
  10. Seats?

    The seats aren't a direct swap. You will need to customize the bolting. If you keep your corolla seat brackets, it will probably be a little easy. One thing you should take into consideration; the Celica's seats are designed for the driver to sit very low to the ground (the 7th gen celica was only 51" tall compared to current Corolla which is 58"), so it will probably be very hard for most drivers in 9th gen Corollas; its going to feel like the dash and everything is set very high up and may be hard for shorter people to see over the wheel.
  11. Recently, I changed my car's oil. I had the car up on jacks. After I was done, I decided to take a look at my rear tires. I was spinning them to see how easily they rotate. I do the same thing with my bicycle tires in order to make sure the brakes aren't rubbing against the wheel. On the back right side, it moved fairly freely (not that great, but not bad), but on the left side the wheel was REALLY hard to turn. I had to use some muscle to get the wheel to rotate. I'm sure that having rear wheels which don't rotate freely isn't good for both fuel efficiency and acceleration. I did the same test with my Mom's rear wheels and they rotated like butter with ease. I'm wondering what could be causing this and how can I fix this so that my wheels spin freely again. Are my brake pads rubbing against the wheel?
  12. I would personally recommend some high performance all season tires. In 175 size, Sumitomo HTR H4's cost only $49. In the 185 size, they are only $4 more. These sumitomos are probably the best bang for the buck you can get, at least judging by tirerack.com's reviews. You could also go for the ones I have on my car, 185/65 Yokohama AVID H4S. They cost $59 per tire, but I guarentee you that they will perform superb. I've had a wonderful experience with these tires in every condition you can think of from hard driving sharp turns and sudden braking, to severe snow storms and black ice.
  13. Well its your car, so you can do what you want with it. I'm just making the suggestion that 17" gold konig rims are going to both impractical from a performance approach and quite odd from an appearance approach. Performance wise, increasing the size of your wheels almost always hurts your car's performance because of the way rotational inertia works. The weight at the furthest point from center (i.e. the tires) most affects the ability for your car to both start and stop. The problem with 17" rims is that they require ultra low profile tires, which have almost no barrier between the wheel and the contact surface so the tires have to be specially constructed to withstand more abuse. Even if the tires are the same diameter and width, the low profile tires will weigh more and increase the inertia/resistance your car has to overcome when both accelerating and decelerating. An example would be the Yokohama Avid T4 tires. They are offered in both 195/60R14 and 195/55R15. Both tires have the same width and about the same diameter, but the 15" tires weigh 20 lbs while the 14" tires weigh 17 lbs. Most 205/40R17 tires are going to weigh even more than 20 lbs. That extra weight rotating at the edge is a lot of force your car has to overcome as your speed increases. Its just as much a disadvantage when your braking and trying to stop all that force. Appearance wise, an please don't take offense to this, but its definately going to look strange seeing a middle-aged man driving a Corolla with 17" gold konig rims and whatever other mods you are looking to add. About the only people I see who heavily mod the exterior of their cars are Fast and the Furious wannabes and posers from my job who work on the docks unloading trucks. One guy has a 95 Accord that has 18" black rims with one of those obnoxious spoilers and all sorts of labels like Xpoid and Audiobahn on his car, as well as 100% tinted windows. In my opinion, it just looks silly. Even if he gave that clown car some muscle, I still would find it silly. Now I would be more impressed if the car looked completely stock, but had muscle (aka, a sleeper).
  14. For a Corolla, I would suggest getting them in silver. That's about the only wheel color that looks good on a Corolla. I especially hate when I see chrome wheels on Corollas. I also would suggest not getting them that oversized. I don't know if that's 16" or 17", but I would say 15" is about the biggest to go on an 8th gen before it starts looking like a rice burner.
  15. It's pretty simple to convert to US MPG from metric. You just divide 235 by whatever number you want to convert to. For example, 235/20 MPG would make 11.75 L/100km. To do the opposite, you just divide the metric number. For example, 235/11.75 would make 20 MPG. According to Robbieboy, his country rates the Corolla at: City: 8.9 L/100km = 26.4 MPG Highway: 5.8 L/100km = 40.5 MPG His MPG: 10 L/100km = 23.5 MPG Judging by this, it sounds like standard transmission. It also sounds like very realistic numbers, in fact rather conservative numbers. Here in the US, the 06 Corolla 5spd manual was rated at 32 MPG city, 41 highway (7.3 city, 5.7 L highway). Even on my automatic Corolla which is pre-vvti and over 9 years old, I usually average 29.5 to 30 MPG (7.8 to 8 L). I don't know how your dipping to just 10 L/100km. That's pretty bad, even for hard driving. I once tested my car's MPG with VERY hard driving and was still able to get at least 26 MPG (9 L/100km), once again my car is pre-vvti, automatic, and 9 years old. It doesn't make sense how your fuel efficiency could dip that low, even with hard accelerations, cold starts, and long warmups. I would suggest checking all your systems, fluids, tire pressure, etc. Something definately isn't right.