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RAV4EVR

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About RAV4EVR

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  1. I took the bottom cover off (easy) I spotted the fill and drain plugs (easy) Tried opening top drain plug (impossible) - WD40 did not help. Warming up and driving around with WD40 for 30 mins did not help. To open the plug, went and bought the 6pt piece (hexagon bolt turner.. what are those tools called?) instead of the 12pt one that I already had which might have damaged the CORNERS on the fill plug. Tried with the 6pt piece and it SLIPS. The corners were wearing out BAD so now I have to take it to the dealer today to see if they can just take off the plugs without charging me (they know me very well) and hand tighten them so I can change the fluid myself at home this evening. I am thinking that I have to buy a new plug for the fill hole anyway because the old one's corners are worn out. HOW THE HELL IS THE DEALER GOING TO TAKE IT OFF? I will be leaving in 40 minutes. God Help me... What a mess. I am thinking that I get the dealer to loosen bolts on my other two car's transmissions (00 V6 manual camry) (97 auto land cruiser) before I even attempt to mess up the plugs... What a mess. Well they did it.. I must not be educated enough on the tools out there.. They tightened enough so they fluid does not leak out until my fluid change time this evening. Looking forward to it. For my lift this evening.. My car may be at about 8 degree from the front.. as I can't get it completely straight. I guess that should be fine.
  2. I took the bottom cover off (easy) I spotted the fill and drain plugs (easy) Tried opening top drain plug (impossible) - WD40 did not help. Warming up and driving around with WD40 for 30 mins did not help. To open the plug, went and bought the 6pt piece (hexagon bolt turner.. what are those tools called?) instead of the 12pt one that I already had which might have damaged the CORNERS on the fill plug. Tried with the 6pt piece and it SLIPS. The corners were wearing out BAD so now I have to take it to the dealer today to see if they can just take off the plugs without charging me (they know me very well) and hand tighten them so I can change the fluid myself at home this evening. I am thinking that I have to buy a new plug for the fill hole anyway because the old one's corners are worn out. HOW THE HELL IS THE DEALER GOING TO TAKE IT OFF? I will be leaving in 40 minutes. God Help me... What a mess. I am thinking that I get the dealer to loosen bolts on my other two car's transmissions (00 V6 manual camry) (97 auto land cruiser) before I even attempt to mess up the plugs... What a mess.
  3. 94 Corolla uses API GL-5 75w-90 gear oil. I wouldn't advise putting synthetic or anything fancy in old cars, because they say it may develop leaks. 2. All you do is take the oil plug at the bottom of the differential. No need for pumping - it will drain easily. 3. I don't think it's necessary to flush it. Automatic needs flushing. 5. The car has to be completely level for the oil to level itself (excess has to drain out). However, it helps to have the front of the car lifted so that it's easier to pour it in, and also it's more accessible that way. After pouring the oil in, lower the car. 6. Hayes manual is not necessary for this job, though you should have it if you plan to do small repair jobs. I called the dealer to find out how many quarts I require. They mentioned 3 to 3.5 QTS. What do you guys think? Also.. I have bought a 75W90 synthetic blend... cuz they didn't have a regular one. Is that going to be ok?
  4. As much as I brag about being in love with my cars, I am ashamed to say that I have never changed any of their transmission fluids myself. I plan to start today. It is a manual transmission. The car manual does not mention the viscosity RANGE. Internet does not help. I have seen some pics and sounds like the pan does not exist put it has a top/bottom drain plugs that I can get to after removing some plastic cover from underneath which I am told is a piece of cake. 1) I want the highest/best grade with synthetic. What should I use? 2) Do I need a hand pump to pump in fluid and out. 3) What procedure is used to pump stuff in and out? Do I need to flush with something? 4) Anything WISE I need to know? i.e.. Do not drain/open bottom plug first without opening the top one first because if the top one does not open, one is f*****... LOL ! 5) Does the car has to be completely level? 6) HAYES manual... should I buy it? Is it helpful? I will drive to AUTOZONE in 30 mins.
  5. Very Glad to have helped.. .. [sorry about the late response. I have been so busy last few months without much internet]
  6. Well thank you !! I drove my wife crazy last weekend. Everytime I started the car I looked her and said, "See... Very nice and quiet."
  7. The vibration was kind of like this... Put ur cellphone on vibrate and stick it on ur head. Let it vibrate and that is how i felt with the car. Felt like the engine was sitting on my head without any rubber in the middle. Rpms 900-1300 were very bad. Speeds 50-65 were not very smooth. 65-75 it got ok. I could not drive above 75mph because it was like riding a loud small plane.. My right side bumper and the indicator assembly vibrated very bad at start ups and while driving on the road.
  8. It makes me sick to think that a simple thing like that was not resolved easily. What are these mechanics good for? Not one shop but multiple shops including the dealer who's guys get special trained by Toyota for Toyota cars. Where is common sense? I specifically used to tell everybody that right when I go over the edge of the hill, the vibration goes away... Hello??? was that a clue? 03 Matrix and 02 Corolla had that problem? ... but these cars are fairly new. I am trying to figure out if the car exists in a certain kind of conditions that causes the motor mounts to go hard prematurely.... What do you think?
  9. I HAVE, IN THE PAST, POSTED ABOUT THIS ASKING FOR HELP. 12 MONTHS LATER. 30,000 MILES LATER............ HERE WE GO ............ I had a lot of vibration in my Corolla since I bought the car a few years ago. Today the vibration is fixed. I can hear myself breathe. Here is the story... If it can help you. Great !!! If not, good luck !! The vibration was mostly from 1000-1200 RPMS and on speeds above 75mph (not sure of RPMs.. may be 3100 plus) When I bought the car from Florida (drove it back 800 miles to KY). It was extremely loud due to vibration. My initial guess was a MOTOR MOUNT. Got car checked (December 2007). Not a single mechanic thought that the MOTOR MOUNTS were bad. DEALER said..... that is how COROLLAS drive and the car is what the car is. It can not be made any better. ??????/ huh??????? (January 2008), One guy replaced my clutch plate and charged me 500 some dollars. The vibration was much better. I drove another 30k miles miles and a few months ago, I noticed the vibration increasing due to COLD. I saw something that I had never seen before. The guy who APPARENTLY replaced my clutch plate had stuck a rubber piece in between my passenger side top motor mount. I took it to the dealer. They took the rubber piece out and guess what.. the vibration was the same as it was a year ago. The a** h*** mechanice never needed to replace my clutch plate. Anyhow, I had them put the rubber piece back in there. I did some research on the net. Some places (if u search a lot) people were talking about the passenger side motor mount, above the passenger side wheel well. People were talking about how the best money they spent in their life by replacing that motor mount. I talked to the dealer. Dealer said that they doubt it would fix problem and I would just waste my money. I thought about it. $200 part. $80 labor. Decided to go for it. Original part at dealer. Ordered it a few weeks ago. Part came in a few days. Continued to debate. Last night, I decided to go for it. I replaced the part today. Just got my car. I am in HEAVEN. It is a 15 year old car. Because of that stupid motor mount it was loud. I cannot hear the car drive now as it is so QUIETTTTT.............................. YEA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I feel good and bad. I feel good that the car is not SUFFERING ANYMORE. I feel sad that I drove my car like that for 30,000 miles. Somebody SHOOT me.... I have said sorry to my car and I am hoping that it has forgiven me............ Looking forward to the oil change and further pampering of my car this weekend. Hopefully I can make peace with it. I have paid $203 for the part. $80 for labor. Had a $125 gift card. The best $158 I ever spent. The car not only looks new, it drives like new. Have 97k miles on it right now. Here is my beauty........................ http://www.freewebs.com/toyotasrock/DSC00849.JPG http://www.freewebs.com/toyotasrock/DSC00852.JPG
  10. UPDATE... The motor mount on the PASSENGER SIDE (right beside the washer fluid tank) had a rubber piece stuck in between the motor mount and where the engine gets bolts in to the motor mount piece itself. That was put back in there and the bolt not tightened very well.. now the vibration is much better. They said that I can have somebody put a bigger piece of rubber put in there but they won't do it for me for legal reasons??? Anyway, I am thinking it is that motor mount $290.. Either I spend $290 and see if it fixes the problem or I leave everything the way it is now.. or try to get a bigger piece of rubber stuck in there to make it better. NOW.. it is not like the 08 Corolla but I feel some minor vibration when accelerating which can be easily ignored... IDEAS?
  11. I have had my 1994 DX Corolla 5 speed (now 90k miles) since September last year and it is PERFECT except that it vibrates the most on RPM 1200. It does vibrate on higher RPMS too. At idle it is very quiet and smooth. This is when the car is parked in neutral so there is no transmission issue to my knowledge. The car's engine is original and very sharp. Could it be the engine? The previous owner put a clutch plate in it that was defective. I had that fixed and that took away a lot of vibration 4 months ago but some vibration STAYED. The motor mounts (according to mechanics) were fine as I got checked a few months ago. I decided (yesterday) to take the car to a level of perfection only a new car would have. I decided to ask the dealer to look into the minor vibration in my car and check the motor mounts (yesterday) They looked at it and said there was NOTHING wrong. I came to pick the car up and it vibrated like crazy. It has been a nightmare since last night. I took the car back to the dealer this morning and told them to ask the mechanic to track his steps and see what he might have TOUCHED down there that increased the vibration. IF they don't figure nothing out, I am going to take it upon myself and start chaning all its motor mounts one by one (one per month) for the next 6 months or so. It will cost me around 600 dollars but there is absolutely nothing else wrong with the car other than the D*** vibration. I hate it when they say, "Oh it is an old car"... WELL.. whatever wore out, can be fixed. Find out and fix it. Don't give me the old car crap. I am sick of this vibration and felt like crying like a little girl yesterday as I was very upset. DESCRIPTION OF THE VIBRATION......... The car does not SHAKE or anything. It feels like the engine is in direct contact with the body of the car so any vibration in the engine is directly getting transferred to the car's body and then to my seat and body. Because of vibration, different parts of the car vibrate.. i.e... the windshield washer box, the dash console or any part that is not extremely tight. When I go over a hill.. right when I start coming down.. it is ecstasy because the vibration goes away.. I got a call from the dealer a few mins ago and they said that one of the motor mount BOLTS were loose and the mechanic TIGHTENED it and as a result I might have seen more vibration.. That motor mount is loosened now again and I am picking up the car.. He said that the motor mount costs 290 dollars and that might not really fix the problem. I am going to pick the car now..... DOES NOT HAVE "MOTOR MOUNTS" WRITTEN ALL OVER IT ??????? HELP !!!!!! It is not right.. Just plain not right.
  12. Hey that is very nice car.. nice fixing on those rust spots. What is "ATM" ?
  13. LOL!!!! This is funny. I can feel the fear in people talking about it. Let's just say the Corolla handles well at 110mph on freeway, as I tested it while I was visiting ADIS ABABA, Ethiopia........ LOL !!! Is Occifer going to lock me up now?
  14. This is a stupid thread but I want it.... WHATEVER .... LOL ! I need to find out how many people out there have complete stock Corollas in complete MINT condition. I usually have a contest on the road when I see a 7th gen since I have one and always point out to wife any 7th gen and all the fading and dents in it to prove to her that I got the best condition on the road.. She is getting sick of it but she has got no choice.. LOL! I am talking not a scratch. I am talking, not a single chirp, rattle anywhere. I am talking no pulling anywhere and a complete clean car that looks old just because we know it is an old car. I am talking solid drive over bumps with no noise from the shocks and no cracking sounds from the suspension with worn out bushings...... 7th and older generations are welcome to give their comments/pictures because 8th and newer are too new. Although any generation is fine. You have already seen mine ofcourse... Not perfect yet... I ADMIT !! I have a few things to work on. http://www.freewebs.com/toyotasrock/94dxst...hiftcorolla.htm Who can beat me ? LOL ! Would love to see your pictures if you get time to post them...
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