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About fanatic26

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  • Birthday 12/09/1981
  1. Hi all, I have had something new happen to my poor 94 1.8l. I was in a drive-thru the other day grabbing a quick bite to eat when my BRAKE light came on. This is the in-cluster BRAKE light under the odometer. This light is normally only on when the e-brake is pulled up so I checked the parking brake trigger to make sure it was not stuck from a spill or something. Everything looks A-OK on the car, I topped the brake fluid off since it was just above the minimum line but nothing has had any effect on the light. Now i know that my brakes are worn (3/32nd pad left last oil change) but as far as I know the only sensors in the braking system are the ABS sensors and the fill sensor in the master cylinder. Does anyone know of anything else that would cause the BRAKE light to stay on solid? It has been on for about 4 days now and I am taking it into the shop ASAP but I would like to know what is wrong going in so they dont gouge me on repairs. As of right now other than the worn pad squeak here or there I have felt no degredation in how the car stops and I have tried to heat the fluid up with a couple panic stops to see if I could smell any leaking/burning. So far all is well other than the light being on. Thanks in advance!
  2. my car lost a timing belt about 120k miles ago, we towed it to the shop and had it back on the road the next day, i love non-interference engines
  3. I am a former stereo shop salesman/installer and have ran thru many brands, Polk has some 'bright' mids but I am looking for more than brightness, I need some midbass if im gonna spend any money to upgrade
  4. To be quite honest I dont know how the car still runs and drives let alone functions near the factory level in all ways except engine power. As the miles pile up she gets a lil more out of breath going up big hills but I would still trust this car for a trip across the country on a moments notice.
  5. I looked at the boxes in my garage and the rears are 6" not 6.25" I made them fit because I think the stock size is 5.25" Its been months since I put it together so im not 100* sure. As far as the fronts go 4" dont cut it, I already have 4" in there and they just arent loud enough. My system is very rear biased and as an audiophile and former installer/salesperson of car audio I really cant stand it. Most basic systems dont even have rear fill and you add it as needed with the front set taking center stage.
  6. I have looked through the forums and done some searches but have not had much luck on this site. I think I might be better off on an MR2 site or whatnot, so if anyone knows of any more performance oriented sites for these engines/cars I would appreciate a personal message pointing me in the right direction. Please do not post links to another forum in here as I feel it is a conflict of interest to advertise another forum on this one I am looking for information on possibly building up a 4A/7A hybrid motor with the factory supercharger or even a simple turbo kit. I have owned 8 cars in my lifetime and 6 of them have been either factory turbo or I added on one myself, I have extensive DIY experience. From what I understand there are 2 popular options for something like this, either a 4A with 7A rods/pistons or a 7A block with custom pistons and the 4A head. I am curious if anyone knows about these kinds of motors. Any alternative suggestions would also be welcome. I am looking to continue the love affair with my 7A Prizm, I learned how to drive in the car nearly 15 years ago and I cant see myself getting rid of it. As the car has 440k miles on the original motor I know it will need a fair bit of work to complete this but thats nothing new to me. Basically I am looking for about 200-220 crank hp so that I can get out of my own way on the freeway and/or surprise a few punk kids if they try to pass me. My goal is to overbuild the motor for reliability as I drive 120 mi round trip to work and back every day.
  7. There isnt much in here so I figured i would post my system specs. 1994 Geo Prizm LSi Head unit: Panasonic MP3 deck with Active Crossover (unknown model) Front Doors: MB Quart Reference Series passive crossover and tweeters with a Planet Audio Neo 4's Rear Deck: MQ Quart Reference Series 6.5 coaxial Subs: Audiobahn AW120T 12's with 1.15 cubic ft of air space (each) in a sealed box. Sub Amps: Diamond Audio 1100.1 (Mono Block 1100w RMS tested over 1800 peak) Highs Amp: Hifonics ZXI 1010 (2 channel 1000w class A/B ) Until last week I had a Diamond Audio 500.4 for highs but as this is the second one that has died on me my dealer replaced it free of charge with a much bigger/more reliable amp. Question to anyone that knows about the 7th gen US Spec Prizm/Corolla. The mounting depth is VERY shallow and I personally tested every 5.25" in the shop and every single one of them was too tall to fit with the factory door cover. I would like to know if anyone has any ideas/recommendations to try before I put kick panel pods in. My system is rear biased on the highs and it has bothered me since I installed the system.
  8. +1 for a spark plug issue. My 94 had the same studdering issue but only when pressing the gas from a standing start. Turns out the gap was about twice what it should be on the spark plugs.
  9. My dad backed into it years ago with the motorhome and dented the license plate with the boat trailer hitch. The paint has just started peeling on the roofline and of course the front end has so many rock chips it almost looks like it was sprinkled with white paint. My suspension is still factory (and still functional) at 440k miles. The bushings are worn out and one of the strut hats is starting to crack but none of the struts have let out the magic oil yet, they still do their job just fine.
  10. Just to tell you how long they can last I have a 1994 Geo Prism LSi aka Corolla with the 7A 1.8l This car was purchased new in 1994 with 6 miles on it from the test drive by my grandmother. I learned how to drive in this car when I was 14 (im now 28) As it sits in my work parking lot it has just broken 440,000 miles this past weekend. There is no car in the world I trust like this one. Total summary of major components replaced: Alternator x3 (factory wiring defect blew them up until it was found) Starter @ 300k (also changed the CVs are they were just plain worn out) Distributor @ 432k (not sure what piece or sensor was bad but I picked up a junkyard unit with 180k on it for $35 and had the car running in a day) Driver side power window motor Everything else on this car is stock. The suspension, exhaust, engine itself, etc has the entire 440k on it. This includes the muffler and catalytic converter. I have no clue how it is still functional but the car itself has never failed a smog check. Obviously the engine burns alot of oil because of its age, but it does not leak a single drop on the ground and I park it in my garage. The car routinely breaks 35 mpg and last year after breaking 400k it hit 39.6 on a flat freeway cruise of 360 miles. Here is a picture of it from a couple months back. She still looks as good as any Corolla/Prizm on the road and handles my 120mi daily commute like a champ.