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allaroc

Crypticlineage Car?

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On any car, you just mash the gas when doing a compression test to open the TB. You gotta undo spark and fuel injectors. I don't know how to do this on a Corolla and I don't know what to do if you have a drive by wire throttle.

 

Simply put, you need to let air get in to your engine to get real readings on your compression test.

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trap

If the test says to fully open the throttle, it is there to make sure that the engine is getting the air. One way would be to either press down on the gas pedal (or, if by yourself, place something heavy on it or jam a stick between it and something like the seat). Another way would be just rotate the throttle cable from under the hood and put a screwdriver or something to keep it in the pressed position. Another way would be to remove the air cleaner and hose and look at the air valve in the intake and see what it takes to have it open. Make sure it is open when doing the compression check. My belief is that it is opened by the vacuum created when you crank the engine and there is nothing you have to do. I can not confirm this, since I don't have your year car and mine is not the same as yours. For the compression test on my car I did not press on the gas pedal or manually open the air intake and the test worked fine. Hope this helps.

Edited by Bikeman982

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Bikeman: Great explanation about full throttle, thank you.

 

I got under the hood today to make sure I know where all parts are that I need to get ready for testing and I have ended up confused over a simple thing.

 

First the good news: I have located the fuse for Multiport Fuel Injection system. So that is out of the way now.

 

Confusion: Where are the spark plugs located? Check out latest pic on www.crypticlineage.net. Is it W,X,Y,Z or A,B,C,D. I thought it was ABCD, so I opened a couple of screws holding those four insertion things in place and guess what, fuel came out of there. So I am guessing they are fuel injectors. That leaves us with WXYZ. Can someone please confirm that that is indeed where the spark plugs are.

 

Another thing: Where is this ignition coil located? I have marked one coil in the above picture, is that what it is? On one end of that coil is a pully that the engine drive belt goes around. So I am guessing the coil generates electricity for the sparks using the engine revolutions? There is so much jumble of wires in there that I do not know what to disconnect. Can someone offer an explanation on what to look for when disconnecting the ignition coil? From what I understand, there should be four wires, one from each spark plug connected to the ignition coil by a coupler of some sort. Now, do I only need to disconnect these four wires on both ends or is there more to it. How does the ignition coil look like?

 

Sorry about too many questions, but its kind of scary under the hood, especially after I accidentally opened up the fuel injectors. The car started fine after I put everything in place though.

 

Any input greatly appreciated.

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Bikeman: Great explanation about full throttle, thank you.

 

I got under the hood today to make sure I know where all parts are that I need to get ready for testing and I have ended up confused over a simple thing.

 

First the good news: I have located the fuse for Multiport Fuel Injection system. So that is out of the way now.

 

Confusion: Where are the spark plugs located? Check out latest pic on www.crypticlineage.net. Is it W,X,Y,Z or A,B,C,D. I thought it was ABCD, so I opened a couple of screws holding those four insertion things in place and guess what, fuel came out of there. So I am guessing they are fuel injectors. That leaves us with WXYZ. Can someone please confirm that that is indeed where the spark plugs are.

 

Another thing: Where is this ignition coil located? I have marked one coil in the above picture, is that what it is? On one end of that coil is a pully that the engine drive belt goes around. So I am guessing the coil generates electricity for the sparks using the engine revolutions? There is so much jumble of wires in there that I do not know what to disconnect. Can someone offer an explanation on what to look for when disconnecting the ignition coil? From what I understand, there should be four wires, one from each spark plug connected to the ignition coil by a coupler of some sort. Now, do I only need to disconnect these four wires on both ends or is there more to it. How does the ignition coil look like?

 

Sorry about too many questions, but its kind of scary under the hood, especially after I accidentally opened up the fuel injectors. The car started fine after I put everything in place though.

 

Any input greatly appreciated.

 

Your engine is different than mine and totally alien to me. Maybe someone with the same engine can identify it or check whatever owner's manual or repair manual that you have.

I can tell you that you have "Coil?" written on top of your alternator. That is obvious to me.

The plugs could be under WXYZ which might mean the things on top are actually your ignition coils. Once you pull a wire off, it will not contact the spark plug and you can do the compression test. I would disconnect all four wires (make sure you note where they reconnect to) , and leave all but the one spark plug in prior to doing the tests.

Don't mess with your alternator or your battery may lose it's charge. The belt that is connected to it actually turns it and that produces a current to keep your battery charged and also operate your electrics when you drive.

Edited by Bikeman982

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Bikeman: Great explanation about full throttle, thank you.

 

I got under the hood today to make sure I know where all parts are that I need to get ready for testing and I have ended up confused over a simple thing.

 

First the good news: I have located the fuse for Multiport Fuel Injection system. So that is out of the way now.

 

Confusion: Where are the spark plugs located? Check out latest pic on www.crypticlineage.net. Is it W,X,Y,Z or A,B,C,D. I thought it was ABCD, so I opened a couple of screws holding those four insertion things in place and guess what, fuel came out of there. So I am guessing they are fuel injectors. That leaves us with WXYZ. Can someone please confirm that that is indeed where the spark plugs are.

 

Another thing: Where is this ignition coil located? I have marked one coil in the above picture, is that what it is? On one end of that coil is a pully that the engine drive belt goes around. So I am guessing the coil generates electricity for the sparks using the engine revolutions? There is so much jumble of wires in there that I do not know what to disconnect. Can someone offer an explanation on what to look for when disconnecting the ignition coil? From what I understand, there should be four wires, one from each spark plug connected to the ignition coil by a coupler of some sort. Now, do I only need to disconnect these four wires on both ends or is there more to it. How does the ignition coil look like?

 

You have the coil on plug 1ZZ. What you see there as WXYZ are the individual ignition coils. Spark plugs are right under them. Undo the wire and bolt and you should be able to remove the coil. When they go back, the bolt needs to be torqued down properly.

 

I'll answer your fuse question as well. The small empty spot has nothing and can be used to hold a spare. The larger spot is where the ABS fuse would go. I guess your car doesn't have ABS.

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That's what I thought about your plugs, but I don't have that engine. The WXYZ are your plugs and they have individual ignition coils.

 

Fuse boxes that have empty spots are for options you don't have. You should also have some spares and if you don't, get some to put in your car for future use.

Edited by Bikeman982

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okay great. Now things make sense. Thanks for the explanations.

 

Buurin: Do you have any idea if the torque has to be measured on those spark plug bolts? Or I can just count the number of turns they took before coming out and use the same number of turns to put them on?

 

I also noticed today that close to fourth cylinder plug, there is this wire that is connected to a plug like thing and the plug has a metal at the end with hole in it (looks like it should be bolted somewhere). This thing is just dangling there, I think someone who worked under the hood before just forgot to bolt it up and its just dangling in there. I have no idea what it is and could not find a place for it to be attached to. I will post a picture of that tomorrow.

 

Thanks again.

V

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okay great. Now things make sense. Thanks for the explanations.

 

Buurin: Do you have any idea if the torque has to be measured on those spark plug bolts? Or I can just count the number of turns they took before coming out and use the same number of turns to put them on?

 

I also noticed today that close to fourth cylinder plug, there is this wire that is connected to a plug like thing and the plug has a metal at the end with hole in it (looks like it should be bolted somewhere). This thing is just dangling there, I think someone who worked under the hood before just forgot to bolt it up and its just dangling in there. I have no idea what it is and could not find a place for it to be attached to. I will post a picture of that tomorrow.

 

Thanks again.

V

 

I think if you consulted the repair manual there would be a specific torque value listed under the specifications.

 

The metal piece with a hole in it is probably a mounting plate.

Edited by Bikeman982

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It sounds like you don't have a repair manual for your car. Is that accurate? Your manual should tell where the plugs are and the torque values. You do need a torque wrench for the assembly of the parts.

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No, I do not have the repair manual yet. I guess I can look up torque values in the Chilton manual at the public library. I had no clue that I would need a torque wrench. Are these expensive? Can someone suggest what kind is suitable? The main reason I am doing my own compression test is to save money, so if this is going to cost something like $100, then its really not worth doing it. I saw some in the range of $15 at Harbor Freight just now, but do not know if they're the right kind.

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No, I do not have the repair manual yet. I guess I can look up torque values in the Chilton manual at the public library. I had no clue that I would need a torque wrench. Are these expensive? Can someone suggest what kind is suitable? The main reason I am doing my own compression test is to save money, so if this is going to cost something like $100, then its really not worth doing it. I saw some in the range of $15 at Harbor Freight just now, but do not know if they're the right kind.

 

You can get a fairly inexpensive torque wrench. It is worth getting since you will be able to use it on other things as well. Harbor Freights has some pretty good deals. You can even check e-Bay.

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Bikeman, for general maintenance needs, would something that handles upto 600 inches lb / 0-70 newton meters be enough? I am thinking of getting a beam type Craftsman wrench from eBay.

 

Beam type is cheap. I got mine for Cdn$25. 600lb-in is about 50lb-ft and is a bit weak. Mine goes up to 150lb-ft and is not that expensive, so I recommend one with at least that capacity. You have 1/2" socket sets to go on these wrench?

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Good to know that. I will look for upto 200lb/ft on eBay or at Sears. I have 3/8" socket wrench set so I will buy a 3/8" drive instead of 1/2" drive unless there is a big disadvantage in getting that. I dont want to get another set of sockets just for the torque wrench.

 

Addition: Do they make 3/8" drive wrenches in the range of 0-150 lbs/ft? I cant find one on Craftsman website. The 3/8" ones they have are rated for only 75 lbs /ft. If thats true, I may have to return my 3/8" sockets and get 1/2" ones instead.

 

Addition 1: Just talked with local Sears store. Craftsman doens't make 3/8" drive wrenches rated for 150 lbs/ft.

Edited by crypticlineage

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