Belt Tensioner - Corolland: the Toyota Corolla Forums

Dan{T.O.O}

I 'm planning on changing my belt tensioner.(2003 corolla).the one on now uses hydraulic, I saw one that uses a spring. what do you think would be better? spring cost a little more but is it worth it? Thanks.

I've heard reviews that split either way - spring (aftermarket) or hydraulic (OEM-like). Some people who have gone through several of one type, may potentially get better results going with another design. Sometimes, there is no performance difference between the two.

How is the one you currently have holding up - is it already toast or is this more of a preventative fix?

I remember that there was a post on this forum where someone replaced their hydraulic one with a spring type, as the hydraulic one was leaking. Ended up going back to the hydraulic one, as the spring one rattled significantly more under certain loads - ie, backing out of a driveway.

FWIW - all of mine are still using the OEM hydraulic tensioners - other than belt squealing noises, easily fixed with a different brand of belt - they have all held up pretty well.

Of course, both types have a spring (to apply tension to the belt) and a hydraulic damper (motion control)... Original design has the spring inside the damper.

I'm satisfied with my Dayco 89356.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1432914,parttype,11659

Helllllp! I'm an extremely stubborn/determined 29yo female who insists that any repair my cat needs, I'll figure it out. Well, my belt tensioner needed to be replaced so, I ordered the part, took off the old, put on the new. All was great UNTIL... I tightened the top bolt (the smaller, 12mm one) a smidge too much and snapped the damn thing off!! I was SO close to being done with this project! My problem is, I don't know what the heck this bolt is called so therefore don't know what to look for either online or at the hardware store. Can someone please help!!!

Um, that would be my car**, not cat, but you guys know that. default_wink

Was it not a nut on a stud, Christy Nichole? You apparently broke the stud which is replaceable... Not that I use a torque wrench on it, but the nut should be tightened to 21 ft-lbs on the stud. The stud itself is screwed in the engine head. Apply Loctite to those threads only on your new stud, and install it good and tight it in its threaded bore.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/15/t_lkr_red/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Red-271.htm

Hex Lobular Stud # 90126-A0005 (originally 90126-08021)

Nut # 90179-08263

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Dan{T.O.O}

Thanks for the reply Fish. first I thought it was the belt making the chirping noise and replaced it. noise was still there so it was the tensioner. replaced it with the hydraulic.the tension was a lot stiffer with the new one which probably explained the chirping noise. I think the belt was just slack enough to cause it to slip making the noise. new tensioner=no more noise=happy me..lol. thanks again.

Fixed rattle noise, as I knew it would as it replaced the broke hydraulic part. It needed to be trimmed by the top where the tensioner 12mm bolt goes, so it would be flush and allow proper torque. Also, you need a 60-100 dollar tool, MILLER TOOL 8433A DECOUPLER REMOVER INSTALLER. Dont kid yourself, it makes installing the alternator pulley required with this kit to go on. Taking the pulley off is easy with impact wrench, or take the alternator off and take it to any parts store. They will take it off for free. Keep the pulley and nut for future use, if you plan on going back to old design... Overall good fit, no issues so far. The cap for the new pulley must be installed as it is a cover to prevent grease from coming out of the new pulley.

Car is very quiet now. winter time will be the big test, as I am a stickler for underhood engine noises. With this design, i may be able to replace the spring over time, if it goes bad.