dom, there is a "D" on the sensor.
The battery is an Autocraft from AAP. Was installed April 2013.
I keep looking at wires and grounds. I don't see any corroded grounds.
Still stumped...
By
autotech2612, November 2, 2014
dom, there is a "D" on the sensor.
The battery is an Autocraft from AAP. Was installed April 2013.
I keep looking at wires and grounds. I don't see any corroded grounds.
Still stumped...
Look for any vacuum leak at any loose or split or hardened hoses. Make sure you throttle valve is closing as it should, and that your idle air assist valve is clean and functional. Vacuum leaks at injector o-rings are also possible.
How old is your upstream oxygen sensor on the exhaust manifold?
There is no record of it ever being replaced. It doesn't throw a code, but they do get lazy over time.
I did replace my injectors last year. O-rings are fine. Actually, I found replacing the injectors to be very easy -- and fun.
Took the Toyota/Denso ECT sensor out and put another SMP in. Much improved idle and temperature gauge climbs up to mid-point in a time that is acceptable when it's 29 degrees out. Idle still a bit high starting out, and doesn't always lower back to 800 when fully-warmed. Sometimes it's 900-1000.
I will re-look tomorrow.
It makes sense it could be a ground issue. However, electrical issues are certainly a pain to diagnose because I don't have any equipment for testing.
Oh, that horn-like noise coming from the valve cover near the alternator? Disappeared.
Who is that in your photo? He looks kinda familiar...
I don't know what else to do. . .
Have you checked your PCV hoses for hardening and/or cracking?
Have you tried ethanol-free or premium gasoline?
Yes. Also cleaned the PCV valve two weeks ago, though it is only a year-and-a-half old.
No, and how would that affect temperature gauge operation and idle issues concurrently?
How's your coolant level, in reservoir, and at pressure cap? (check when engine is completely cooled down)
It's at the full mark when warm. Coolant is right there when I take the cap off.
Warmer tomorrow, so will be looking at it further. The whistling noise came back, so I'm take the intake manifold off to check the gasket. Then will make sure I use a torque wrench on the bolts.
May as well take the throttle body off and do a good cleaning.
At this point my status here should be Reverse, not 3rd Gear.
Did learn the wire leading into my radio setting condenser was poorly attached today. Then it broke free. Doubt that's related to the idle and gauge issues.
No that wouldn't affect it... You may want to keep looking for other wiring problems though.
That's what I'm doing in order to keep away from the shop. Been driving the car less due to a large drop in fuel economy. In process right now of taking the intake manifold off.
When the engine is completely cool, coolant is pulled back into the radiator, and the level is just below the low mark.
Now car won't start after wire snaps from the condenser. It was idling when it snapped.
After the wire snapped, it hit metal on the engine, there was a small spark, then engine shut off.
Day time running lights, however, wouldn't shut off until I returned the key to the off position.
Did this cause damage to another component in the system, or will it not start even though it's disconnected?
Fixed. Blew a fuse. Spliced the wire for that condenser and good. Torquing intake manifold bolts. Factory specs indicate 14 pounds for my 2002, but I'm curious why it's 10 pounds higher on yours. Whistling sound gone.
^^^ Likely due to the compression needed to properly seal a composite intake on the 9th gen vs the aluminum plate on the 8th gen. intake manifold.
Update:
Screeching and whistling noise is still gone.
Idle quality has improved and so has the temperature gauge in these colder temperatures Michigan has returned to.
No idle hunting
Still, sometimes it will idle up to 1800 for a few seconds upon start-up. Is this normal? It does go down eventually to 1400 until fully-warmed.
Also, how many miles do you typically drive in temperatures 30 or less before the gauge is up to the mid-point?
So, how does a bad intake manifold gasket affect both the idle quality AND temperature gauge operation?
Yes, those rpm's are good and normal for initial startup and subsequent warmup in cold enough ambient temps... How long depends on initial engine temperature, if a block heater is used or not, ambient temperature, driving speed, heater blower speed, etc. It'll warm up better with front grille covered in sub-freezing temps.
I could've mentioned to torque manifold bolts from center to outside in a cross pattern and in gradual steps up to specified torque... You could check them again after gasket is seated over a couple heat cycles.
But what about the gasket having an affect on both the temperature gauge and the idle.
To really see if this is solved, I am going to install the genuine Toyota ECT sensor tonight and will update on that.
Update: I removed the SMP/Intermotor aftermarket ECT sensor and re-installed the Toyota/Denso sensor. Gauge seemed a little slower to move, but it did get to the half-way point this time and it stayed there while in a drive-thru restaurant. Before I replaced the intake manifold gasket, the gauge would never get to the half-way point. And it was idle hunting severely.
27 degrees.
Right on. Only 7 pages to get to this point... 
Have you covered your front grille or part of the radiator for the cold season?
Not yet, I have the cardboard ready to do it like last winter.
I did gradually torque starting from center as you stated above. I use my fingers on the socket until snug, then very gradually start torquing.
My question again: How does a bad gasket affect the temperature gauge's behavior?
It doesn't... No relation whatsoever between a vacuum leak at intake manifold and coolant temperature sensor.
Apparently I spoke too soon about the temp. gauge.
Temp is 22 degrees.
Engine completely cold
Started up, idle is normal for this outside temperature.
Drove for about eight minutes city driving speeds 35 in fifth gear. Also did some coasting.
Got to destination one: idling at 1100. Temperature gauge is moved only up by about half an inch.
Idled for two minutes, then back on the road, and needle dropped a little. Apparently two minutes of idling causes the coolant temperature to drop?
Drove 5-6 minutes, coasting at times, in fifth gear at 35. Needle moved up a little, so now it has roughly moved up to one inch, but still well below the half-way point.
Enter the highway on-ramp and get up to 55. Now, the needle is starting to move. After three minutes on the highway, it's at the half-way point.
Arrived at next destination. Pull into parking lot Idling at 800 and needle is at half-way point.
Turn it off. Re-start in about ten minutes. Now an Equal mix of highway and city driving for the next ten minutes. No issues. I pull into my garage and the needle is still at the half-way point and it is idling at 800.
This reminds me a lot of the 98 Geo Metro I had that also had a clogged heater core like this car. The needle barely moved when cold in low-speed driving, but when it got on the highway, needle moved quickly.
Idle issues are resolved.
Please note, I did replace the thermostat last winter with a genuine Toyota part.
