Engine Swap In 00 Corolla

Yeah, most of the 1ZZ-FE internals are interchangeable through the model years, aside from the VVT-i option on the 2000 and up model years. Darton sleeves, Wiseco pistons, Crower cams - couldn't get much better than those parts, absolutely top notch stuff. Don't forget the right rings as well. All seals all around the block and head, any head work you want done - swap in a Celica or MR2 1ZZ-FE head to automatically get larger valves, P&P, etc. Now is the time. That much potential increase in flow - you would be best served looking at fabricating a new induction setup. Throttlebody would be the chocking point, need to punch that out - not a whole lot of meat on there, so boring it will result in little gains. Others have used the larger TB from a 9th gen Corolla or Celica GT, some have gone big and worked in an V8 Infiniti's throttlebody.

Running a punched out engine (3.5mm larger diameter piston and bore with the stock 91.5mm stroke ~ 2L) coupled with a 12:1 compression - probably be in your best interest to upgrade the rods as well. Crank will be fine, valve springs don't need to be upgraded unless you want to push the engine past 7000RPMs, where valve float might be a possibility.

Don't need to get a ring compression unless you have access to a shop to push out the old cast liners, machine the block, and then push in the new ones. Make sure the shop understands a 1ZZ-FE engine, cannot freeze the liners and heat the block to ease the install - those liners don't shrink appreciably much when cold, block will crack if they don't evenly and lightly heat it (heat bath is best) - as the block is an alloy of high tensile aluminum, ie. brittle. Its an open deck block - so a torque plate has to be installed before boring.

Another option is to have MWR put it all together for you - they have blocks already setup, ready to roll - you your old block as the core return. Just an option.

Sorry - meant to say that the 2000+ 1ZZ-FE engines are mostly interchangeable. There are some differences, like slight variations in the camshaft profile from the 8.5 gen (2000-2002) and the 9th gen (2003-2008) 1ZZ-FE. The 7th gen Celica GT and the MK3 MR2 1ZZ-FE are the same on the bottom, but internally and on the head - they are slightly different. Lighter weight con rods for higher revs, larger valves in the head.

Just running a bigger bore and sleeves with the required pistons will see more displacement, but not necessarily equal power gains. Usually, increasing the displacement will yield more potential torque, but not really horsepower. There is a possibility that you could even lower VE - volumetric efficiency, which would mean that it could be making less power than before. Just changing those bits will almost guarantee a lower VE. You'll have to make complementary changes to the cam profile, induction and exhaust system + custom tune to take all those changes into account. This will be a pretty big project.

Adding the high compression pistons you list will help in boosting potential power gains, but the tune will be absolutely critical - will need to set a reasonable baseline - probably no safe way to do a street tune with that, at least I would not recommend that.

Con rods - the stocks ones are pretty decent, but you can always improve on them. Aftermarket rods are generally lighter in weight (good for a higher revving project) as well as stronger (better materials, difference in designs). Some trade weight for more strength. With a high compression setup, like you are envisioning, the stock rods could be your weak link.

Throttlebody and induction system (intake manifold and associated piping, etc.) - on a build of this scale - could be your bottleneck to getting enough air into the engine. Also depending on your powerband, you may have to experiment with intake runner lengths, possibly add a surge tank, venturi horns, etc. The stock one is a long, tubular design - good for maximizing torque and power from off idle to middle of the rev range, but will be choked at increasing RPMs. Running a short runner design, like the composite intake on the 9th gen 1ZZ-FE will help with swelling the power band in the middle, but is not efficient at the low or very top of the rev range. Some Toyotas have a variable induction setup - started with Toyota TVIS system on the 4AGE engines and like my 2.5L in the Rav4 - actually have two sets of intake runners - off idle and lower RPMs, they run through a long length runner, as RPMs climb, they switch to a shorter runner length. They also incorporate a surge tank in the layout to help keep the cylinder filled at high RPMs.

Usually with engine mods - you generally want to start from the outside and work your way in. That will minimize the amount of downtime and "shock" factor when you see how much all this could cost you. Changes you make on one aspect of the engine has to be balanced out to ensure you get the most gains from it. Example - if you improve the intake flow so that engine breathing is optimized, then you have to make a complimentary improvements to the exhaust (has to be able to push more exhaust out) and bump up the injection strategy (more air require more fuel), while making sure that you don't run into a heat issue (may have to increase cooling to compensate), etc.

That's you see people installing mods that don't seem to do anything - improving one aspect needs help from supporting systems to be effective. Would explain why one person saw significant gains, while others didn't see anything or worse, lost performance. Of course there are mods that really don't do anything - but that is another thing altogether.

Yup, same here - I found that the K&N filter helped with throttle response, compared to the paper filter. So even if there was no HP advantage, that increased throttle response makes the car "feel" peppier then usual.

Yeah, the trick is getting that panel filter cleaned and oil properly. You have to give the oil time to soak evenly in the pleats - once that happens, there is almost zero chance of getting any oil fouling of the MAF sensor. I've been running my K&N panel filter for almost 180K miles - zero issues with the MAF getting fouled. Takes some experimenting to get it oiled just right - staring with K&N's recommendation as a starting point, I've eventually came up with recipe below with good results on all my cars.

First, have to make sure that filter is 100% dry before you spray on the tack oil. After washing it, I blow all the pleats out with compressed air, then hang the filter by a corner and let it air dry for atleast 24 hours. You can speed the process by putting it infront of a fan or heater, but it will still take a decent amount of time to dry. After that - I use the aerosol spray oil (lot easier to apply than the squeeze bottle) - coat each pleat evenly, using that red color as a guide, to make sure I'm getting even coverage - but only spraying one side the filter. Let the oil wick to to the other side via capillary action. Lay down some newspaper, put on paper towel on them, place the unsprayed side down on the paper towel, then wrap the remaining newspaper around the top of the filter, Stick it in a plastic bag, and let it set overnight. That oil will eventually pull down through gravity and capillary action - excess oil gets pulled into the paper towel - the rest of the filter is now perfectly oiled.

For gaskets and the like - hard to beat OEM ones. Aftermarket might have some nice features, but for longevity and fitment, OEM is the way to go on gaskets.

As for the rest of it - since the 1ZZ-FE doesn't get the same aftermarket attention like other imports, like Mazda, Subaru or Honda engines - you are left with very few aftermarket options. Meaning they will be expensive for good quality aftermarket. The 1ZZ-FE is already pretty well optimized from the factory, they didn't leave much wiggle room in the build, so to get tangible gains, you'll have to pump in a lot of money. No way around that.

Keeping with a N/A build will likely be the most costly option - just the nature of the build. Forced induction - turbocharging/supercharging will give you good results for the investment - but will require a fair amount of your time, and significant outlays of cash down the road to replace parts that break. Nitrous injection would be the best bang for the buck, the lower HP kits can be installed with zero modifications to the engine/tune. Only drawback is how often you run it - most common sized bottle is a 10lbs one, and that can be spent pretty quickly if you stay on the juice all the time.