every time i shift from 1-2 the driver-front tire feels like it hops. When I leave it in second gear, reach about 3krpm and release the gas, It feels like a kick.
could it be the cv joint?
By
Opium, September 19, 2013
every time i shift from 1-2 the driver-front tire feels like it hops. When I leave it in second gear, reach about 3krpm and release the gas, It feels like a kick.
could it be the cv joint?
Sounds more like engine mounts/dampers are too soft. Causing excessive movement in the drivetrain - binding in some cases, slop in others. You can do a quick test by observing how much the engine moves around when you load/unload the engine. If it shifts back and forth more than a couple of inches - mounts are going soft.
New mounts might help - alternative are urethane mount inserts, if you can find them at all, are my personal favorite. When I installed them in our old Matrix XRS - it was jumping into a brand new car. No more wheel hop on brisk acceleration and drivetrain didn't seem to clunk as much under spirited driving, where you are jump on and off the gas.
I had some custom ones made up by Energy Suspension? for my 8th gen - but they don't seem to want to do low production runs anymore.
Forgot to mention, when I drive on gravel, the tire hops alot.
Mileage and condition of your struts? You can also check your control arms' rear bushing for ripping or unbonding.
control arms bushing are the original, so 106k on them and the struts(Kyb) have about 13k on them.
I did need the front and rear motor mount urethane inserts to prevent the violent metal banging when driving off in thick wet snow, or under hard 2nd gear shifts on wet pavement when mine was still new. No such problems since... Energy Suspension's control arm rear bushings were also a great improvement after my originals ripped and unbonded.
106K miles isn't too bad for control arms - 13K on struts, they are basically new. But if you drive a lot off road - then looking into the bushings (control arm in the front / laternal links in the rear) is not a bad idea. If they look obviously worn - then have them replaced. Worn engine mounts are likely the real culprit - they are tough to diagnose when still on the car - I've seen some that were completely shot and still "look" OK on the car, only to remove them and have the center section just fell out - rubber bushing "fingers" were completely crumbled (dry rot), rest of the rubber bushing unbonded from the outer steel casing.
this wednesday I'll check on the bushings and for the engine mounts, i'll have to take it to the shop.
I post the update.
I had the car on jack stands, with the tire on, when i pulled it, putting my hands horizontally, the tire would move a little. When I took the tire off,
the cv joint would move in and out, just a bit.
Little bit of slop in the CV joint is normal - as long as it doesn't move more than 1/2" or so. Mine slop back and forth just a hair - maybe 1/10" or less. But when you mentioned that the tire moved while it is still on the car - that sounds more like a loose/worn wheel bearing / worn hub than a CV joint. Just up and down play - see if you notice any movement by the lower ball joint or the surrounding bushings. Might be easier if you have someone helping you out - one of you prying on the wheel while the other is concentrating on the various suspension bits.
I checked on the Balljoint, its good. The Sway bar end links, good. Thats true, i'll see if i can get an extra hand.
I'm planning to take the control arm off to check that as well.
When I have the car on, I turn the steering wheel to the right and release it right away and I can hear the knock. The same knock when I press in the clutch and release it right away without switching gears, while going 30mph that makes the sound and gives a feel as if the front driver side tire hopes.
As mentioned, inspect control arm bushings, inner and outer tie-rod ends, stabilizer bar links, etc.
As mentioned, inspect control arm bushings, inner and outer tie-rod ends, stabilizer bar links, etc.
Where could I buy some good bushings, including the control arm bushings?
I've looked for Energy but none are available for my car.
At this point - just be rubber replacements from MOOG or similar company. ES urethane ones have to be custom made for the 8th gen.
Is the 99 prizm control arm the same as 99 corolla?
Because Rockauto only has for corolla and not prizm.
Yeah, Chevrolet/Geo Prizm is a rebadged Toyota Corolla and is exactly the same car... Same control arms and everything.
I recommend Moog inner tie-rod ends if you need them.
Is the 99 prizm control arm the same as 99 corolla?
Because Rockauto only has for corolla and not prizm.
The engine, transmission, electrical would be the same. The gauge cluster looks the same. See my Introduction post where I mention our Prizms, so I know what a Prizm gauge cluster looks like. I've seen Corolla ones in videos and that's how I know what those like.
I would verify the return policy before purchasing. I suspect it is a match, however, you may want to go to a GM web site to confirm part number, or go to your local Chevy parts department to get price and part number. You can then check online web sites for best deal. If you can look at VIN plate and see if it was made in Fremont, CA (NUMI plant), then it has a real good chance of using Toyota parts.
Topic List: Go to Toyota Corolla, Chevy Prizm (1998-2008)
