by Bull6791, August 19, 2013
AUTOTECH
I totally agree with you it would save money doing my own maintenance. I never did any car maintenance myself. Other than check and refill fluids. Fill up tires with air and change filters. If I wanted to start doing my owns maintenance what is something easy I can start with.
Thanks
What tools do you have at this point? I just recently started doing my own maintenance as well. The two most important things I have found to be the most necessary (tools wise) is a socket wrench and sockets and a long pipe (you can use the pipe to create a 'longer' wrench for more leverage). Of course there are other things (screwdrivers, vice grip, hammer/mallet, flash light, etc.)
What year do you have? Spark Plugs are pretty easy to change. Just need a socket wrench with a couple different sizes and more importantly a spark plug socket (5/8" for my spark plugs). You can also check and change your PCV valve with a 22mm deep socket (with my model). Changing the serpentine belt is relatively easy, although help from a friend is useful, unless you happen to have an extra set of hands on you (for the long pipe, wrench method). You can also clean your throttle body with some TB cleaner (if just starting out, I would do this last, other than just spraying some fluid inside of the body).
Just a few ideas. Hope this helps.
JEFF88,
Thanks for replying. I have an 05 corolla. I would love to try changing my spark plugs. I would have to see a video first and a run down of the tools. I have a spark plug socket but do not know if it is right size. Any help would be appreciated.
Just changed PCV VALVE yesterday. Also what is better Denso or NGK plugs
Thanks Frank
Denso or NGK - both are valid replacements for the OEM plug. The NGK OE plug is a IFR5T11, the Denso OE plug is SK16R11 - both are long life iridium plugs. You can use either one - some cars came with the Denso plug from the factory, some with the NGK plug - depends on where the car was made and its intended market. Note that both of these plugs are designed for 120K mile lifespan - varys from case to case, but most people get well over 100K miles on a set of these plugs. The replacement fine wire ones - generally don't last as long - some as little as 30K miles - some will run up to 60K miles. Shop around for best prices - as they very wildly - from $6/plug to as much as $24/plug. Most long life OEM plugs - will run between $8-$12 a plug, most fine wire replacements will run 1/2 that.
You'll need a long extension on the socket - as the plugs are pretty deep in the sparkplug well. You'll also need a plug socket - usually a socket set comes with two plug sockets, one larger and one smaller. You'll want the smaller 5/8" / 16mm plug socket. Try not to use a regular socket - it is doable, but the plug socket makes it much easier to replace/install the plugs - as it has a rubber fitting inside the socket.
There are a number of videos online that show how to replace the plugs on the 1ZZ-FE engine. But the overview is:
- disconnect negative battery terminal (NOTE: this is what I do before I work on any electrical item on the car as many times, I'll be monkeying around with something that might short out something by accident. Note that some alarm / security systems will NOT like this - some systems can actually lock you out, if power is pulled - verify if you can pull power before you do this).
- remove engine cover (2 plastic pins in the rear - might break if you remove them, use needle nose pliers and rotate slowly as you pull the pins out, 2 up front are 10mm acorn nuts)
- disconnect the igniter cable connections
- loosen the wire loom to give yourseld a bit more room (10mm nuts)
- disconnect and remove the ignitors, order is not important (10mm bolts)
- remove plugs, one at a time - note their position and how the plug end looks like for future diagnostic work.
- replace plugs, torquing as necessary (read the directions on the package)
- reverse the process to put everything else back on
Fish,
Thanks for the info. Now what is the wire loom you have to take off. In some videos they say the rail has to come off is the rail and wire loom the same thing.
I am glad you said about torquing the plugs I was going to ask you about that. I did not know it tells you on the package.
Is it better to use a torque wrench or a general socket wrench will work. I also see where it needs to be at a certain foot lbs. then other places say 1/2 turn past hand tight. I do not know which way to do it when ever I do it it will be my first time and I do not want to foul up the plugs.
A little guidance is what I need. Thanks
Frank
Yup - same thing. Some people were able to get the igniters off without loosening the rail, some couldn't even budge them. On all my 1ZZ-FE engines cars - I had to loosen it to get at the igniters. Just remove the two or three bolts - pull the wire loom/rail out and away (will still be a fair amount of tension there, just move it out of the way enough to clear the igniters).
If you see a fair amount of dirt debris around the igniters - guard against any dirt falling into the plug well. I like to take an air blow off tool hooked to my air compressor and blast out the plug wells before I remove the plugs. You don't have to do that - just take a peek and make sure no dirt is in there. If there is, just wipe it out, blow it out, or just becareful.
Specs call for 150 in.lbs (inch pounds) - which work out to around 12.5ft.lbs. Problem is, not many torque wrenches can accurate read down that low - read inexpensive wrenches. I usually settle the plugs in by hand until the gasket makes contact with the head - then give it another 1/4 to 1/2 turn, depending on what it says on the package. Some plugs, you only give an 1/8 turn, some want 1/2 turn or more. Haven't used a torque wrench on these for some time - just go by feel. Once you do it a couple of times, you'll get the feel for it pretty quickly. You can actually feel the gasket compress as you tighten it.
Also, there might be some question about anti-seize compound. It varys from person to person. Myself - I generally do not put any on the plugs. If I know I'm working on a car that has a tendancy to get plugs stuck, I'll put on a very minimal amount. The trick is not to get any on the plug end or inside the cylinder. Some of the youtube videos I've seen - they just slather on the anti-seize. That is just a recipe for hot spots and detonation issues. Some anti-seize materials can even foul the plug or even kill off the catalytic converter, not to mention potentially scuffing internal engine components. As with anything, moderation is the key - less is more.
The head is aluminum, so you don't want to go Hulk on these plugs - they don't need too much torque, just enough to keep them from backing out. Not sure what the yield point is - but there aren't too many threads on there - so 25-35ft.lbs, and you could strip those threads. Then you are in a world of hurt at that point.
Fish
Later today I have questions about throttle body cleaning. When I get home.
Thanks frank
Fish,
When I do the spark plugs I am not going to use anti seize like you said if I need it I will use it later. Also since this is my first time do you think it would be a good idea to do plugs one at a time. I mean disconnect igniter. Pull it out. Replace plug. Put igniter back in connect it. Then go to next one. Till I learn the job. Also I do not know what happens if you put an igniter into the wrong well buy accident.
Throttle body cleaning:
What benefits will the car get by cleaning this.
Do you take the TB out of the car completely or just disconnect hoses.
What cleaner could I use I never cleaned a TB before and I am nervous about messing up sensor.
Is TB connected to air filter box and hose.
Fish just trying to get more info and see if it would benefit me to clean throttle body. Like I said would hate to damage something because this is my first time and have to go to my own personal mechanic who owns his own shop. His name is Vince to bale me out.
Frank
Sure, whatever is easiest for you. This system is completely different than previous designs, no firing order to mess up, unless you tried to take apart the wiring, etc. Dropping the #1 cylinder igniter into the #3 cylinder won't hurt you at all - all the igniters are identical. But, if you want to keep them with their respective cylinders - that works too. Some cases, might make more sense - like if you are diagnosing a misfire or ignition issue - want to keep them right where they are until you get around to check them out.
As for the TB cleaning - since yours is DBW, there are some things you want to make sure you keep an eye on. On the old cable throttlebodies - you just remove the tube running from the airbox to the throttlebody - exposing the TB. Then just gently force the blade up and clean around it. In your case - you CANNOT do that without possibly damaging the servo on the throttlebody.
Two options: First option, if you have a helper - you can have them put the ignition to RUN, but not start the car - throttlebody will be getting power to the servo and may make some noise (normal) - have them depress the accelerator to open the butterfly valve - then you can clean around it. Nice thing about this option - TB stays in the car and you still get a decent cleaning. Second option - might be the easiest for many, just remove the throttlebody. Be sure to disconnect the power correctly - note that some alarm systems / security systems might get upset if you do this - remove the throttlebody. If you are careful, you can minimize the amount of coolant lost (you have to remove two coolant lines from the TB), and may be able to reuse the gasket - most cases, better to replace it. This will make sure you clean both sides without even have to move the butterfly blade at all. Some cases where the car is heavily neglected, this may be the way to go.
Some may ask why go through all this trouble - benefit is the throttle plate will close correctly. Many cases, you can get enough soot and varnish build up to actually "prop" the butterfly blade up. This will cause the TB to meter in more air than is required, if outside of the specified range, you can get engine performance issues. Shaky, unstable, uneven idle - hesitation when leaving from a dead stop, etc. In advanced cases, the car can actually stall on you. For less than 5 minutes of work (two person method) - a no brainer to add to your DIY list of tasks to do.
Make sure you use a O2/AFR sensor safe solvent, one made specifically for this sort of cleaning. Fortunately, most of them out there will work just fine. Just pick up a can that says throttlebody cleaner - chances are, it will say O2/AFR safe, all throttlebodies, teflon coated, etc. Some even come with a fancy spray wand for hard to reach places, all depends on what looks good to you.
Some swear by Lucas products, some like Amsoil, other major brands. I generally just pickup whatever is on sale - Valvoline, CRC, 3M, BG, etc.
Fish
Sorry but how often should throttle body be cleaned. Where is it located again. I never took one apart. I will probably try it.
Thanks
I've heard to clean the TB around 30k miles give or take, but it doesn't hurt to just spray some TB cleaner in there whenever you are under the hood anyway. All you have to do is take out the air filter and run the car while spraying some TB cleaner in. Just don't overdo it as that will kill the engine and you will have to restart the car. Just feather it in and you'll be fine. If you do that at say every oil change, you should always have a *relatively* clean TB. Oh and I just used CRC Clean-R-Carb (carb cleaner). I had no idea that I should look for O2 safe like Fish mentioned, but it does say that on the can. I would imagine MAF sensor cleaner would be OK as well, but Fish would know better.
Fish is right about removing the rail for the plugs. Even on my car, sometimes I have to remove it and sometimes the rail is shifted just right, so I can wiggle everything out, without removing the rail. The first time I removed the plugs, I did it without removing the rail. The next time, I had to remove it. It's only a couple extra bolts anyway. I've been told to not ever use a normal socket to remove the plugs. The rubber is nice to hold the plug in place, but (from what I was told) it also protects the plug so you don't accidentally break it or do damage. I've never used anti-seize before either, hasn't been a problem on this engine. What I do is when I put the plug back in, I take off the wrench and just spin the extension bar until it is hand tight just like Fish. Also, if you do that, I doubt you would need anti-seize as it would not be over tightened. (I didn't know about the torque specs on the box either, good to know! 
)
Fish,
Can you go a little further into the damaging the servo on the TB? Where is it, what breaks, is there a CEL after, etc.?
JEFF88,
What type of spark plug gap gauge do you have. The flat circle type or wire type. NGK and Denso recommend wire type gauge because of iridium type metal. I am just trying to see what gauge I should get for gaping plugs. I know they come pre gapped but they still have to be checked and I do not have a gauge.
Thanks for the info
Frank
Frank,
I actually have only used pre-gapped and have not actually checked the gap they come with before putting them in. The nice thing about the flat circle is that it gives you more options of gap sizes, the issue is that it is not as accurate. The exact opposite with the wire type. Less options, more accurate (in theory). If this is the only car you are working on, I would get the wire type with the gap that works for your plugs.
This may help. He uses the flat circle.
The only thing I would say is that if you have to hammer the electrode down to narrow the gap, I would put something between the electrode and the hammer, maybe the gap checker tool. I would be more comfortable doing that even though, you aren't going to hit it that hard. Fish may have more insight into that.
I agree with jeff88 - wire type is the best, the circle types are convenient but not accurate. Feeler gauges are another option, but you have to be careful with them. Pretty easy to put too much force on the blade, could chip the platinum points on the ground electrode or chip the hard center electrode. Same issue with the coin type plug gappers - you have to guard against accidentally prying on the electrode.
Also with most iridium plugs - most are pre-gapped, usually have a little plastic or cardboard tube that protects the threads and electrode from accidental damage. Gapping them by hand is tricky, depending on the plug design - it is very possible that you could damage the plug if you gap them incorrectly. Of all the Denso and NGK plugs I've checked - none of them have been off. I'm old-school, so I check the gap regardless, only takes another minute. But if you don't want to check it - as long as you stick with the better manufacturers of plugs - very remote chance you'll have any issues.
The 1ZZ-FE is pretty picky about plug types and gap. Stick with a 0.044" gap - any larger might cause misfires, any smaller and you lose efficiency.
Fish
Most wire gauges do not have .044 on then the ones I saw so in that case how do you check the gap
Thanks
Frank
0.044" is a pretty standard gap, so that is surprising to me. Might be 1.143mm - which works out to be 0.045".
But now that you mentioned the 6-wires, sounds like this is the disc shaped one, six wires + two plug "wrenches" on the side.
Looks like this?:
http://imageserver.g...ger/2ZPF9_AS01?$productdetail$
On that one, you can use 0.045" gap - which should be an option. Being off a thousandths of an inch is not an issue - after even 1000 miles, the plug gap will start to vary around that tolerance anyways.
