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Pump Shuts Off, Codes P0441, P0446




Guest 98CorollaMica

Hey All,

New to the forum. I've seen this topic before elsewhere, but I have new symptons. The car was sitting near salt water for quite some time and I put it back on the road and fixed anything I found. It's been on the road a month, and the engine light turned on. This happened at the same time I was pumping gas (it was on empty), and the pump kept shutting off (the feeling you get when you overfill, however, I had been on empty, and I NEVER overfill). I ran the OBDII on it, and pulled P0441. Two days later I also pulled P0446. I'm assuming this is the purge valve, however I'm not sure. I'd hate to replace the whole EVAP system. I went under the car. The hoses aren't rotted from what I can see, but the solenoid attached to the canister has rotted from its seat, and is hanging (the components of it aren't rotted, only the bracket it sits on)

Any ideas where I should start? I'm used to working on much older cars with no practically no EVAP at all.... this is my nightmare haha

Thanks a bunch!!

how about the year and mileage. It could be a bad evap solenoid and/or canister ,but erase the codes and tighten the gas cap first. sometimes they purge themselves. they are very expensive. Find a junker or u-pull yard.

Having P0441 and P0446 at the same time may refer to a super-saturated charcoal canister. There were several other models that were suspecible to this, but the Corolla was not specifically mentioned in any TSB I ever saw. Here is one from Toyota verifying this, but offering now test procedures. http://www.toyotapart.com/EVAP_SYSTEM_DIAGNOSIS_P0441_P0446_T-EG003-98.pdf

And taking into account your comment regarding the gas pump keep cutting off while you were filling the gas tank, this sounds extremely plausible in this situation that you did over fill and caused the charcoal canister to become super-saturated with gasoline. Try driving it around for a week or so and see if it dissipates on it's own. You could get creative with removing the valves and solenoids and flushing fresh compressed air into the canister and seeing if you can drain any excess gasoline physically, but depending on how much rust is down there already you may you may end up doing more harm than good.

If after a while the codes don't go away and you have verified that the vacuum hoses all have no leaks and proper vacuum is at each valve/solenoid, and voltage is correct , they actuate correctly when voltage is applied, and no other physical leaks exist, you may have to purchase a new canister. You could bum one from a Pull-a-part salvage yard or similar, or buy one new, but when you see the price of as a new one (if even needed), you will probably buy 10 junk yard ones before buying a new one.

A clogged tank vent or cutoff valve (plastic valve on the top of the tank) can also cause some headaches. If the vent tube is clogged, it will not allow the pressure to equalize as you fill the tank. Could have some debris clogging the vent tube, sometimes owners find spiders clogging the vent - certain species are attracted to hydrocarbon fumes and will swarm into the vent, only to eventually die and clog the tube. This was the case with some Hondas and Nissans that had EVAP failures just recently in the news.



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