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Noise When Starting 2009 Corolla

By dim3, June 15, 2010 in Toyota Corolla (2009 until 2018-19 “TNGA”)

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Check this link out. In a short, your corolla has engine problem, like mine. Toyota is aware of it and sent out this bulletin a long time ago. I don't know why dealers have no clue and keep us running around. I finally found and printed out this bulletin and took to the dealer. Good luck.

 

http://www.empirepao...-SB-0087-09.pdf

I finally got my problem fixed. I printed this off and brought it to the dealer service department. They told me the noise was caused by lack of oil. Got the oil changed and next day the noise was still happening.

So I took my MD recorder and I recorded the noise on two consecutive morning starts, brought it to the dealer, asked for a mechanic to listen, which he did. He just said "Well, we will check it out and see if we find anything" I get a call about 30 minutes later saying they would replace the camshaft timing device (described in the pdf file). Two days later, my car is finally fixed. I guess all this time they didn't feel like spending 10 hours on a job covered by power train warranty.

The chirp has come back with a vengeance. Am going to have to take it in for an examination. The service guy at C & C Toyota in Marietta, Ohio said I'll have to leave it overnight with them. What a bummer, but necessary. Will report what happened...

I am having this same issue with my 2009 corolla. WHAT COULD THIS BE ????? I really need a fix for this. Help Help. We need to have some Toyota mechanics as members on the site so we can pick their brains..default_blink

I've mentioned the T-SB on the subject, and at one point, kept my 'Rolla outside on gravel under one of those portable carport things (which is fine for my S-10). But that was last year, and have been keeping it in the garage ever since. However, even keeping my '09 in the garage isn't the cure for the chirping I hear every now and again. Could belt slippage still be an issue, even in a garage? Well, morning dew has certainly been eliminated from the equation.

Lately, however, I've begun to suspect the cause is not the VVT-i gear set, but something to do with the starter - and here is why: While starting the motor in town one day, I let loose of the key before it turned over. Much to my surprise, the starter remained engaged; it did not stop, even when I let loose of the key. When this happened, the chirp did not occur. Matter of fact, the chirp remained absent several starts later - which has led me to believe the cause is in the starter. Problem is, I am unsure if the starter is the cause of the chirp; and I'd lay odds a dealer could reproduce the chirp and be able to diagnose the problem at about 1 in 10.

Other than the chirp, which happens approximately 50% of the time, the starter works without a problem. At this point - and having read more on the subject - I've decided to leave it be.

Lately, however, I've begun to suspect the cause is not the VVT-i gear set, but something to do with the starter - and here is why: While starting the motor in town one day, I let loose of the key before it turned over. Much to my surprise, the starter remained engaged; it did not stop, even when I let loose of the key. When this happened, the chirp did not occur. Matter of fact, the chirp remained absent several starts later - which has led me to believe the cause is in the starter. Problem is, I am unsure if the starter is the cause of the chirp; and I'd lay odds a dealer could reproduce the chirp and be able to diagnose the problem at about 1 in 10.

Other than the chirp, which happens approximately 50% of the time, the starter works without a problem. At this point - and having read more on the subject - I've decided to leave it be.

You are aware that the "Start" key position functions like a modern pushbutton start on our cars, right? I figured this out very early on with my car. All you have to do is flick the key to Start, and it will automatically crank until started. I have been starting my car this way for 3 years.

My car used to "chirp" on startup, and continued to do so after replacing the serpentine belt. On cold mornings it would continue to shriek badly, especially if I had the blower and rear defrost turned on (more alternator load). Tightening the belt by another couple turns of the tension bolt on the alternator cured it. Seems these motors are very picky about serpentine belt tension, exacerbated by the fact that there is no spring-loaded belt tensioner. Because of the effect of alternator load on the chirp/shriek, it seems like the belt was slipping on the alternator pulley.

Lately, however, I've begun to suspect the cause is not the VVT-i gear set, but something to do with the starter - and here is why: While starting the motor in town one day, I let loose of the key before it turned over. Much to my surprise, the starter remained engaged; it did not stop, even when I let loose of the key. When this happened, the chirp did not occur. Matter of fact, the chirp remained absent several starts later - which has led me to believe the cause is in the starter. Problem is, I am unsure if the starter is the cause of the chirp; and I'd lay odds a dealer could reproduce the chirp and be able to diagnose the problem at about 1 in 10.

Other than the chirp, which happens approximately 50% of the time, the starter works without a problem. At this point - and having read more on the subject - I've decided to leave it be.

You are aware that the "Start" key position functions like a modern pushbutton start on our cars, right? I figured this out very early on with my car. All you have to do is flick the key to Start, and it will automatically crank until started. I have been starting my car this way for 3 years.

My car used to "chirp" on startup, and continued to do so after replacing the serpentine belt. On cold mornings it would continue to shriek badly, especially if I had the blower and rear defrost turned on (more alternator load). Tightening the belt by another couple turns of the tension bolt on the alternator cured it. Seems these motors are very picky about serpentine belt tension, exacerbated by the fact that there is no spring-loaded belt tensioner. Because of the effect of alternator load on the chirp/shriek, it seems like the belt was slipping on the alternator pulley.

Yes, I am now. Sort of took me by surprise earlier this year when I was starting up, and my fingers slipped off the key. That it kept cranking told me cars are MUCH more sophisticated than I thought.

Guest ben26416

Check this link out. In a short, your corolla has engine problem, like mine. Toyota is aware of it and sent out this bulletin a long time ago. I don't know why dealers have no clue and keep us running around. I finally found and printed out this bulletin and took to the dealer. Good luck.

http://www.empirepao...-SB-0087-09.pdf

Interesting! I notice a half-second-long "chirp" from my '09 S model, but thought it was only early-morning belt slippage. It doesn't happen when the car has warmed up. I will listen for it next time, and check my VIN. Thanks for the TSB link!!

 

I know this is a stupid question, but.....How do you figure out the vin range? I dont know how to determine if my vin is included in the tsb or not. My vin is 2T1BU40E69C###### Thanks for the help!

Welcome and no such thing as a stupid question.

"TSB applies to ALL 2009 – 2010 Japan-built Corolla vehicles and to North American vehicles produced BEFORE the Production Change Effective VINs shown below:"

2T1BU4EE#AC257917

Your VIN is:

2T1BU40E69C######

I've highlighted in BOLD the model year in both the VINs. Since yours is a 2009 model year - it is automatically made before the production date change, so it satisfies the condition that it was made BEFORE the production date change.

Decoding the VINs - in case anyone is curious to the different positions (used your VIN as an example). Info can be found online, lots of sources out there.

2 = Country of Origin (Canada)

T = Manufacturer of vehicle (Toyota)

1 = Vehicle Type (Passenger Car)

B = Body Type (4 Door Sedan)

U = Engine Model (2ZR-FE)

4 = Chassis Code(E140, 10th generation)

0 = Safety Restraints (manual belts, two front airbags, curtain airbags - NOTE: sometimes wrong, some safety port side installed, part of a package), E = all airbags

E = Model Code (E = Corolla/Matrix)

6 = VIN checksum, verifies valid VIN, could be anything depending on the last 6 digits

9 = Model Year (2009), A = model year 2010

C = Manufacturing Plant (Cambridge, ON, CA (TMMC))

6-digits = serial # of car, increasing as more cars are made.

Guest ben26416

Wow, Thanks for all of the info! I had no idea that you could break it down like that. Now I can take the tsb to the dealership and know that my car falls in the range.

Guest jwheelerz

I had the same problem. I took it to the dealership and it stayed there for 2 nights. It turns out that the 2009 corolla dont have a timing belt anymore, instead they have a "cam shaft gear". that is what makes the noice come out of the engine when you first start it up. usually its very loud when the car is cold.

My dealership did it for free since my car had less than 60,000 miles... Check with your local dealership and see what they charge. Also you should replace the waterpump, since almost all corollas have a waterpump leak.

@jwheelerz: Yeah, so, what did they do, the T-SB? I'm assuming they did. And that cured the noise?

Have decided to just let mine be, since nothing else seems wrong with it. Am a little nervous about letting them do anything, in fear of screwing something else up, you know what I mean?

If the noise is just a noise, and nothing which will cause problems down the road, I'd be content with just leaving it alone. Any comments, anyone? Fish?

Aren't there TSB's for rattling on cold starts for several Corolla models? I glanced at them before buying my 2011, but since they didn't apply to my vin number, I've forgotten the details.

Hi All,

I'm new to this board...but not to Corollas. My 2009 started making really loud noises when I started it up. It started last night with a noise that sounded ike a fast paced tapping. That dissipated and what I heard this morning was just a general rough engine noise. It was difficult to determine exactly what sound. It just sounded like it was running hard. But it drove perfectly fine and went away a few minutes after the car was running. I live in PA and it hasn't got cold enough yet to warrant the weather being a factor.

I took it to Pep Boys just to get an opinion. They tried to tell me it was some part of my tranmission and that they were hearing a "whirring" noise. I don't think that's right, because they were too quick to refer me to the garage down the street and that's not the noise I heard.

Has anyone had a similar problem? I had an 01 before this and it would have a hard start in the cold, but never made a noise quite like what I heard this morning. Planning on popping the hood this evening and taking a closer look myself. Any help is appreciated!

Need a bit more information to help potentially point you in the right direction.

Which engine - 1.8L (base) or 2.4L (AWD, S and XRS trim)?

Is the noise only present when the engine is being cranked over?

Is it pretty consistent - noise continues on for a couple minutes until the engine warms up, or does it sometimes run longer/shorter?

How's the oil level - full?

What oil is in it now - oil weight, conventional/synthetic?

Noise could be coming for a number of sources - given that you mention it sounds like a fast paced tapping - likely it is valvetrain noise. Some engines are noticeably louder than others - the key is that the noise goes away when the engine starts to warm up. The older 1ZZ-FE were known to be very noise in the valvetrain - the new 1.8L 2ZR-FE replacement is not much better - if fact, there are some cases where there is excessive oil consumption and/or damage to the sprockets on the dual VVT-i system. Hit or miss - either you have the issue or not - can't tell by an audible check - but usually is related to a sudden increase in oil consumption. The 2.4L 2AZ-FE engine is also known to be a little on the noisy side - also known to have a pretty excessive oil consumption issue. Doesn't mean that this is just unique to these engine - the 1ZZ-FE had its fair share of oil control issues. Timing chain design is also a little harder on oil - just need to keep an eye on the oil levels.

Need a bit more information to help potentially point you in the right direction.

Which engine - 1.8L (base) or 2.4L (AWD, S and XRS trim)?

Is the noise only present when the engine is being cranked over?

Is it pretty consistent - noise continues on for a couple minutes until the engine warms up, or does it sometimes run longer/shorter?

How's the oil level - full?

What oil is in it now - oil weight, conventional/synthetic?

Noise could be coming for a number of sources - given that you mention it sounds like a fast paced tapping - likely it is valvetrain noise. Some engines are noticeably louder than others - the key is that the noise goes away when the engine starts to warm up. The older 1ZZ-FE were known to be very noise in the valvetrain - the new 1.8L 2ZR-FE replacement is not much better - if fact, there are some cases where there is excessive oil consumption and/or damage to the sprockets on the dual VVT-i system. Hit or miss - either you have the issue or not - can't tell by an audible check - but usually is related to a sudden increase in oil consumption. The 2.4L 2AZ-FE engine is also known to be a little on the noisy side - also known to have a pretty excessive oil consumption issue. Doesn't mean that this is just unique to these engine - the 1ZZ-FE had its fair share of oil control issues. Timing chain design is also a little harder on oil - just need to keep an eye on the oil levels.

2009 Toyota Corolla S model 1.8L FWD 2ZR-FE

 

-Noise is made when its being cranked over and its stays on a for a few seconds. It's only when in the morning at a cold start, when i go to work and to cut it back on after 4 hours a=it does it again but if i cut it back in a hour it doesn't do the noise. The oil is at its correct level, been taking the car to the dealership for oil changes, they use there oil and filter. It's conventionl 5W-20. Thought it was the starter at the beginning but i tested it and it was good and the gear was enganging right. Second thing i thought it was maybe the oil pump going out, and not pumping the oil to lubricate as fast. Then me thinking it was the timing chain, but i heard that the newer corolla's don't have a timing chain? Supposedly a camshaft gear.... What could it be!?

All the Corolla from the 1998+ models use a timing chain, including your 2ZR-FE engine. There is a TSB that points to the VVTi actuator and gear assembly causing a rattling noise during operation. As for the noise that pops up right after startup - might be the starter bendix sticking. Oil pump is fine - takes a lot to damage that particular oil pump. As for oil pressure not up to spec - you'll have to plumb in an aftermarket gauge to see what the pressures are really like - can't go by the low oil pressure warning lamp that comes with the car. Usually, when that one illuminates - damage to the engine has already occurred.

WOW, I think fishexpo101 has solved the noise issue on cold startup of my 2009 Corolla S. My son is a mechanic and actually went to school at UTI specifically for toyotas but of course doesnt work at a toyota dealership. i will have him check it out and hopefully get back with an answer soon.

Guest Ricker

So here is my mechanics report. Check for buzzing type noise on cold starts. Noise coming from throttle body. R&R intake tube and verify excessive play in throttle plate in startup position. He went on to explain that when the system started sucking air it would cause a vibration in A Worn butterfly valve basically.

Guest Fed up!!!

Guest Fed up!!!

I to have a 2009 Toyota Corolla, with the same noise, as I was reading through the posts, I took my corolla to the Toyota Service Center, and of course I knew it would be an all day thing, Yes this is where I bought it, so as I went into the service area and told them I would like to have a code reader to see what code it was throwing. Of course it had to have a cool engine before they would get it into the bay. I promise you, I sat in the lounge for a total of six hours, and I could see in the lot where they parked it, I was told that the tech went out to start it and it didn't make any noise, okay, never saw anyone go out and start it let alone pull it into the bay. Fed up with the noise, I am on a mission to get this car fixed or junk it and get another one, by chance I resolve the issue I will sure post and let everyone know what the problem is, so they don't go out of their minds like me.



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